The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine - Page 360 - diyAudio
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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 16th March 2013, 05:02 PM   #3591
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I might go the whole hog and fit an analogue vu meter too...

Panel VU Meter TR-35 0dB=1.288V 35x35mm LED | eBay

BJ
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Old 17th March 2013, 05:25 AM   #3592
ekbaird is offline ekbaird  United States
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I am going to use small bolts plus silicone sealant to secure the drivers/grills to the baffle and epoxy to glue them to the center brace. My question is will epoxy itself hold the foam/grill/baffle together without the bolts if I use a good amount? I ask because I made 2 of the speaker holes like 1-2 mm too big which is not a lot and dry fitting was fine, just a tiny tiny overhang from the speaker foam. If I decide to not use bolts will the epoxy hold and will that foam stick to the driver? Those bolt holes are pretty close to that routed edge in any case! Most likely using bolts + silicone.
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Old 17th March 2013, 05:33 PM   #3593
zrkie is offline zrkie  United Kingdom
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It really takes a good read in this thread to realize that the design is optimized in so many ways.
Reading from beginning to end I've collected a good portion of notes!

Cannot add much more than I'm looking forward for more talks on the Qubinator (suiting my needs the best)!

Cheers & shoutouts to all ppl how have REPEATEDLY answered infinity times the same questions...
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Old 17th March 2013, 05:58 PM   #3594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekbaird View Post
My question is will epoxy itself hold the foam/grill/baffle together without the bolts if I use a good amount?
It will be difficult as epoxy is too liquid for this use unless you use a filler.
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Old 17th March 2013, 07:54 PM   #3595
gmarsh is offline gmarsh  Canada
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Don't ever used silicone in a closed compartment - it outgasses acetic acid when it cures. It attacks other metals, it attacks certain plastics, and it prevents epoxy from curing. Basically, don't use it to build a boominator. I learned this lesson the hard way when I sealed an outdoor electrical enclosure with silicon - it burnt out in spectacular fashion less than a year later, and the copper was horribly corroded.

I also wouldn't use epoxy because it's hard when it's cured. Vibrations from playing music, impacts, people sitting on it, thermal expansion, etc. might cause the epoxy to eventually fail.

Use urethane. I built my box using Loctite "PL Premium" adhesive. It doesn't outgas anything too horrible when it cures, and it's somewhat flexible when it's cured.
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Old 17th March 2013, 08:41 PM   #3596
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gmarsh View Post
Don't ever used silicone in a closed compartment - it outgasses acetic acid when it cures. It attacks other metals, it attacks certain plastics, and it prevents epoxy from curing. Basically, don't use it to build a boominator. I learned this lesson the hard way when I sealed an outdoor electrical enclosure with silicon - it burnt out in spectacular fashion less than a year later, and the copper was horribly corroded.
It's been stressed several times that the silicone must be solvent-free.

Epoxy will work but I recommend silicone between woofer and baffle.
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Old 17th March 2013, 09:25 PM   #3597
hwcons is offline hwcons  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ekbaird View Post
Does it matter if the handle port is higher or lower on the sides or is it best dead center?

What size resistors for ksn-1001a originals? paired w goldwoods.

And why change input/feedback caps?
I have a question. I live in California, where did you buy ksn-1001a originals? and what kind of resistors are you getting? I know that Saturnus recommended 33 ohm's but do you know what's the wattage? Are you getting 10W as (Leggler) used on page 3551, because I have 33 ohm 1/2W resistor and it looks small compared to (Leggler) picture on page 3551.

Thanks.
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Old 17th March 2013, 10:14 PM   #3598
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He probably got them directly from the current manufacturers webshop.

Piezo Source, Inc.

Resistors can be 1, 2, or 3W. Depends on what you can find. With a TA2020 or similar amp, only 1W is absolutely needed.

They do have one requirement though. They must not be wire-wound. That means you cannot use regular ceramic power resistor but use metal film or better yet, carbon composition. I vastly prefer the carbon composition ones as they distort and float in value which would normally disqualify them from any build but those effects seems to work tremendously well with piezo tweeters and make them sound less piezo'ie.
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Old 18th March 2013, 12:30 AM   #3599
hwcons is offline hwcons  United States
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Thank you for your quick response!
I just ordered the Piezo's and the resistors (those were the last two things that I needed).
I can't wait to start building it!


Thanks again.
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Old 18th March 2013, 08:52 AM   #3600
zrkie is offline zrkie  United Kingdom
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Hi, I'm looking for an alternative replacement of the PHT-407N, as the sources I've found does not ship to Sweden.
I found this one that seems to feature a very similar frequency response curve (I add this as the "recommended 5000hz 12db/oct" crossover point does not seem necessary to the boominator application given its power.

Diskanthorn

Any comments ?
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