The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine - Page 345 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 11th February 2013, 01:32 PM   #3441
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by whalebreath View Post
Hey guys,

So if you remember back a few posts, I had an issue with one channel of drivers only playing mids and highs, but no bass at all. I have measured the impedance of both channels, and they both read 4 ohms. So, it looks like I do not have broken voice coils.

Is there any way that one of the resistors (47K) I soldered onto each piezo to smooth the crossover, is messing with the drivers? I just clicked that the drivers sound like they've have a HPF on them. Could one bad resistor (I'm sure wiring is right) have affected the drivers too?

Cheers! Long live Boominator
I think you may have inadvertently wired one of the piezos in series with one of the HP10Ws instead of parallel to it.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 02:21 AM   #3442
ekbaird is offline ekbaird  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Default planning my build

Hello, read entire thread and planning to build the original boominator.
I have ordered the amp6b, but cant quite pull the trigger on the drivers.

I want to use the HP-10Ws but having trouble sourcing them in the US (west coast). Are there any known vendors that deliver here? I have looked.

Second, what exactly is the difference between the Goldwoods and the P.Audios? I am not as knowledgeable of speaker driver parameters as some of you guys. I can see the gw-1058s are heavier, cheaper, and have a lower resonant frequency. Would my music sound different if I were to use these?Why exactly are they referred to as "inferior" on this forum?
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 02:27 AM   #3443
ekbaird is offline ekbaird  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Default bubble horns

One more question- Any word on the bubble horn tweeters? I feel like I should hold off ordering until theyre available again, which sounds like it will be soon from some of the posts I have read.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 08:03 AM   #3444
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: sunny Queensland
Send a message via Yahoo to stevodude
Not sure if this has been asked, or even needs an answer.

The original boominator called for the magnets to be back to back. This means the hole in the back of the magnets line up.
now the new version calls for the holey brace in between the magnets (9mm) .
Should I still drill a hole to match the magnet-magnet hole? Will it make a difference to anything use full is sound pressure etc, or just don't worry about it and block the holes with the brace?

Cheers, stevodude.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 08:07 AM   #3445
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevodude View Post
Not sure if this has been asked, or even needs an answer.

The original boominator called for the magnets to be back to back. This means the hole in the back of the magnets line up.
now the new version calls for the holey brace in between the magnets (9mm) .
Should I still drill a hole to match the magnet-magnet hole? Will it make a difference to anything use full is sound pressure etc, or just don't worry about it and block the holes with the brace?

Cheers, stevodude.
It's part of the design. I've answered the question here: Saturnus or someone
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 08:11 AM   #3446
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekbaird View Post
One more question- Any word on the bubble horn tweeters? I feel like I should hold off ordering until theyre available again, which sounds like it will be soon from some of the posts I have read.
Unfortunately the test run of bubble horn tweeters was a dud. We'll try again probably with another manufacturer, or another basic horn design I've been contemplating. But for now. The bubble horn piezos will not be available any time soon.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 08:20 AM   #3447
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by ekbaird View Post
Second, what exactly is the difference between the Goldwoods and the P.Audios? I am not as knowledgeable of speaker driver parameters as some of you guys. I can see the gw-1058s are heavier, cheaper, and have a lower resonant frequency. Would my music sound different if I were to use these?Why exactly are they referred to as "inferior" on this forum?
Getting the HP10Ws available in the US does not seem like something that will happen in the foreseeable future until a retailer finds out there's actually money to be made. Note that some private entrepreneurs here in Denmark have started importing them directly from the factory themselves in order to sell complete Boominator packages with drivers, amp, and everything else you need except wood, glue, screws, tools and batteries. I see no reason why it wouldn't work in the US either for someone with a little cash lying around and willing to take the risk.

Don't get me wrong. The Goldwood GW-1058 is actually a gem at it's price. It's just that the p.audio HP10W is also a gem at it's price. They are very similar in almost every aspect, it's just that the HP10Ws are a little bit better at everything.

Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W.

Last edited by Saturnus; 12th February 2013 at 08:24 AM.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 12:08 PM   #3448
diyAudio Member
 
Flipboy02's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: N. America
Saturnus, were you able to download the diagrams? thanks.
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 05:58 PM   #3449
ekbaird is offline ekbaird  United States
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Getting the HP10Ws available in the US does not seem like something that will happen in the foreseeable future until a retailer finds out there's actually money to be made. Note that some private entrepreneurs here in Denmark have started importing them directly from the factory themselves in order to sell complete Boominator packages with drivers, amp, and everything else you need except wood, glue, screws, tools and batteries. I see no reason why it wouldn't work in the US either for someone with a little cash lying around and willing to take the risk.

Don't get me wrong. The Goldwood GW-1058 is actually a gem at it's price. It's just that the p.audio HP10W is also a gem at it's price. They are very similar in almost every aspect, it's just that the HP10Ws are a little bit better at everything.

Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W.
OK well I will be ordering Goldwoods then since they are the only type available here. They are cheaper anyway and I dont believe they will sound vastly inferior, if at all inferior to the ears of my non-audiophile friends hehe.

How many drivers/amps would I need to import for the factory to ship overseas? Idea of cost?

And for the sake of convenience can you please let me know the most ideal tweeter model available in the US?
  Reply With Quote
Old 12th February 2013, 06:33 PM   #3450
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: sunny Queensland
Send a message via Yahoo to stevodude
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
It's part of the design. I've answered the question here: Saturnus or someone

Thanks for that Saturnus, and for being so patient with everyone's questions :-)

But, it still doesn't answer my question :-)
When the magnets are butted up to the brace, should I drill a small hole (it is propably about a 12mm drill bit) where the magnet hole is, or leave it solid.

You can see my brace in the attached image and that it has no hole where the center of the magnet sits.

Click the image to open in full size.
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 06:32 PM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2