The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

[Saturnus]

Originally Posted by whalebreath

Hey guys,

So if you remember back a few posts, I had an issue with one channel of drivers only playing mids and highs, but no bass at all. I have measured the impedance of both channels, and they both read 4 ohms. So, it looks like I do not have broken voice coils.

Is there any way that one of the resistors (47K) I soldered onto each piezo to smooth the crossover, is messing with the drivers? I just clicked that the drivers sound like they've have a HPF on them. Could one bad resistor (I'm sure wiring is right) have affected the drivers too?

Cheers! Long live Boominator

I think you may have inadvertently wired one of the piezos in series with one of the HP10Ws instead of parallel to it.

[ekbaird]

Hello, read entire thread and planning to build the original boominator.
I have ordered the amp6b, but cant quite pull the trigger on the drivers.

I want to use the HP-10Ws but having trouble sourcing them in the US (west coast). Are there any known vendors that deliver here? I have looked.

Second, what exactly is the difference between the Goldwoods and the P.Audios? I am not as knowledgeable of speaker driver parameters as some of you guys. I can see the gw-1058s are heavier, cheaper, and have a lower resonant frequency. Would my music sound different if I were to use these?Why exactly are they referred to as "inferior" on this forum?

[ekbaird]

One more question- Any word on the bubble horn tweeters? I feel like I should hold off ordering until theyre available again, which sounds like it will be soon from some of the posts I have read.

[stevodude]

Not sure if this has been asked, or even needs an answer.

The original boominator called for the magnets to be back to back. This means the hole in the back of the magnets line up.
now the new version calls for the holey brace in between the magnets (9mm) .
Should I still drill a hole to match the magnet-magnet hole? Will it make a difference to anything use full is sound pressure etc, or just don't worry about it and block the holes with the brace?

Cheers, stevodude.

[Saturnus]

Originally Posted by stevodude

Not sure if this has been asked, or even needs an answer.

The original boominator called for the magnets to be back to back. This means the hole in the back of the magnets line up.
now the new version calls for the holey brace in between the magnets (9mm) .
Should I still drill a hole to match the magnet-magnet hole? Will it make a difference to anything use full is sound pressure etc, or just don't worry about it and block the holes with the brace?

Cheers, stevodude.

It's part of the design. I've answered the question here: Saturnus or someone

[Saturnus]

Originally Posted by ekbaird

One more question- Any word on the bubble horn tweeters? I feel like I should hold off ordering until theyre available again, which sounds like it will be soon from some of the posts I have read.

Unfortunately the test run of bubble horn tweeters was a dud. We'll try again probably with another manufacturer, or another basic horn design I've been contemplating. But for now. The bubble horn piezos will not be available any time soon.

[Saturnus]

Originally Posted by ekbaird

Second, what exactly is the difference between the Goldwoods and the P.Audios? I am not as knowledgeable of speaker driver parameters as some of you guys. I can see the gw-1058s are heavier, cheaper, and have a lower resonant frequency. Would my music sound different if I were to use these?Why exactly are they referred to as "inferior" on this forum?

Getting the HP10Ws available in the US does not seem like something that will happen in the foreseeable future until a retailer finds out there's actually money to be made. Note that some private entrepreneurs here in Denmark have started importing them directly from the factory themselves in order to sell complete Boominator packages with drivers, amp, and everything else you need except wood, glue, screws, tools and batteries. I see no reason why it wouldn't work in the US either for someone with a little cash lying around and willing to take the risk.

Don't get me wrong. The Goldwood GW-1058 is actually a gem at it's price. It's just that the p.audio HP10W is also a gem at it's price. They are very similar in almost every aspect, it's just that the HP10Ws are a little bit better at everything.

Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W.

[Flipboy02]

Saturnus, were you able to download the diagrams? thanks.

[ekbaird]

Originally Posted by Saturnus

Getting the HP10Ws available in the US does not seem like something that will happen in the foreseeable future until a retailer finds out there's actually money to be made. Note that some private entrepreneurs here in Denmark have started importing them directly from the factory themselves in order to sell complete Boominator packages with drivers, amp, and everything else you need except wood, glue, screws, tools and batteries. I see no reason why it wouldn't work in the US either for someone with a little cash lying around and willing to take the risk.

Don't get me wrong. The Goldwood GW-1058 is actually a gem at it's price. It's just that the p.audio HP10W is also a gem at it's price. They are very similar in almost every aspect, it's just that the HP10Ws are a little bit better at everything.

Also note that with GW-1058 I do recommend a series coil on the woofers to roll-off from 4Khz as the roll-off of the GW-1058 isn't as controlled and well dampened as the HP10W.

OK well I will be ordering Goldwoods then since they are the only type available here. They are cheaper anyway and I dont believe they will sound vastly inferior, if at all inferior to the ears of my non-audiophile friends hehe.

How many drivers/amps would I need to import for the factory to ship overseas? Idea of cost?

And for the sake of convenience can you please let me know the most ideal tweeter model available in the US?

[stevodude]

Originally Posted by Saturnus

It's part of the design. I've answered the question here: Saturnus or someone

Thanks for that Saturnus, and for being so patient with everyone's questions :-)

But, it still doesn't answer my question :-)
When the magnets are butted up to the brace, should I drill a small hole (it is propably about a 12mm drill bit) where the magnet hole is, or leave it solid.

You can see my brace in the attached image and that it has no hole where the center of the magnet sits.