The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine - Page 343 - diyAudio
 The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine
 User Name Stay logged in? Password
 Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read Search

 Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

 Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you. Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
 26th January 2013, 05:18 PM #3421 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Oct 2012 Hi Me and my friend are currently doing our last year in college or high school (dont know what its called in english :P) and need to do some kind of project work. So we decided to build a boombox, but we have some questions that we need to answer. With that said, we would really appreciate some answers on these questions: 1. First of, Ive seen Saturnus setting the "Qbox" to 1.1, so i wonder what that is and how it affects the sound/box/whatever. 2. It seems to me that u can tune the box to whatever Hz you like, but ive seen in a guide (http://se.search.yahoo.com/r/_ylt=A7...Enclosures.pdf) that the optimal, or so it seems, tuning frequency is given by this formula Fb = 0.42(Fs)/Qt^0.9. 3. It would be awesome if someone could link a page where they explain how the T/S "formulas" (not parameters) were determind in the first place. For example this one F3=0.26(Fs)/Qt^1.4. Why is the F3 given with these formula? Where does the ^1.4 come from? Would be really happy if someone could help me with this project /André
 26th January 2013, 10:19 PM #3422 diyAudio Member     Join Date: May 2011 Location: N. America Early on, you suggested using these caps: AVX CB038B0154JBA with these attributes, 150 NF, 16V, 1812, PPS. But I think this is recommended for use with the SN-10MB and the 407N. You mentioned WIMA caps as an alternative, if I didn't want to solder. If I can't get these particular brand/model, what would be a similar type and at what attributes or if there is a part number I can search for? Mouser and Digi-key are the main electronics distributers here in the US. And what is the best way to install it? Diagrams are one thing, but real-world execution is very different and confusing, especially to someone who is new to the whole audio electronics world. Any help you can provide is very much appreciated.
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Sep 2012
Quote:
 Originally Posted by Saturnus No worries. 1) Yes 2) I believe that filter is for the Boominator LITE with Basslite S2010 woofers. 3) Yes May I inquire what the purpose of your "halfinator" is? I've recently designed the Boominator MINI for people that find the full Boominator too large, too heavy, and too expensive. I've not yet built one so a full test might change a few minor details but all simulations have been satisfactory so I have full confidence that it is extremely close to the final design. Have a look here. Boominator MINI (development thread) - Speakerplans.com Forums - Page 1
Yes, it's to use outdoor and indoor, to play reggae/dub/hip hop music ( bass and middle frequency are important ), and the halfinator will be store in my van ( the size 500*300 for halfinator is perfect ).

So a full boominator would be too large and too expensive for me, i have chosen to go with p.audio 407N to increase middle range frequency. Hard for me to know what's the better choice betwen halfinator ( 407N + HP10W combo ) or the Boominator MINI, what do you think about the pros and the cons ?

- Sorry about the mistake for the filter, i have found the filter for HP10W + 407N, so if somebody can correct it for Halfinator stereo version it will be great !

Thanks for you help

 30th January 2013, 05:32 AM #3425 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Mar 2012 Hello all I'm a newbie and I have previously built the Podzuma. My next challenge is to build the Boominator but I have a couple of questions for Saturnus or whoever would be able to help me. I live in California and I'm having problems purchasing the recommended drivers but I read that I can get from PartsExpress the GOLDWOOD GW-1058 and I also saw that Saturnus recommends MONACOR MPT-001. My question is if I use GOLDWOOD driver with the MONACOR MPT-001, are they compatible? and if they are can I use the Resistors 33 or 47 Ohm 3W 5% Metal? Thank you for your help!
 30th January 2013, 06:17 AM #3426 diyAudio Member     Join Date: Apr 2007 hwcons's and brummiejons questions, both regarding the use of which speaker, are best addressed to the multi-way subForum. BTW In Brummiejon's reply the guy at Bluearan had written extensively enough ! Not that bad! From what I 'captioned' from this thread, the double woofer is chosen in function to have : high sensitivity ( 4Ω=more power) and efficiency ( double radiation area ) at the price of the extension given by the size and solidity of the enclosure/box, as also the highish Q is a result of all these factors . Price is also...money. No doubts that some coaxials would outperform the-I extimate quite good the performance suggested by Saturnus...-HP10W+piezo Ehm...That P audio is HUGE !!! Maybe it would deserve a double volume, so better to offset and put the magnes nearly aside, opposing. Last edited by picowallspeaker; 30th January 2013 at 06:24 AM.
 30th January 2013, 11:16 AM #3427 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Whitstable, Kent, England Hi The guy at blue arran didnt really understand the concept behind the boominator, however, he did seem to know a thing or two about speaker drivers....... The price of the P.Audio HP 10W shipped from Germany is no more than the price of the P.Audio E10-200S and I like the idea of purchasing locally to keep my children in work and cut the CO2 emmissions on transport..... Obviously the extra weight is an issue but I'm planning to mainly transport this to the beach or picnic by bicycle trailer or car anyway.... Accordiing to Blue Aaran, the E10-200S, although not reflected in the specs, is a better speaker and no more expensive (for me anyway)........ I'd like to hear Saturnus veiw on this anyway..... it would be good to find speakers, available in the UK, that are suitable for the boominator design. I think that it would encourage more UK builders........ I love the efficient design of the boominator and intend to stay as close to the original as poss..... I shall use the AMP6 basic and intend to have a go at building the kit myself, even tho I have never soldered electronic components on a PCB before..... it cant be that hard...... There will be times when I may require more volume at the expense of battery life, as long as I can get 10-12 hours at full volume with a single charge, I'd be happy. So I am planning to make two. removable amp modules, one optimised for length of play (amp6 basic) and another optimised for volume and 10hrs play... Would the AMP9 be suitable for that? Final question, blue arran suggest that a tweeter could be used without affecting the overall impedence, this is not what I have read on this forum, is this true or rubbish? I ask because I am aware that a "proper" tweeter will sound better than a peizo and would prefer to use one if it is possible.... Regards BJ
 30th January 2013, 12:05 PM #3428 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Winch I think you have got some good advice from the Blue Aran guy, as far as the x-over goes he is probably right, crossover design is a complex thing but you can usually design them [crossovers] to maintain a reasonable (i.e. not too low) impedance across the entire frequency range (its not just a case of parallel drivers). A piezo tweeter will look to the amplifier like a capacitor, so the magnitude of its impedance drops as the frequency increases. At audio frequencies its impedance is pretty high so if it is in parallel with your other speakers it will hardly effect the overall impedance seen by your amplifier. However, at very high frequencies (ultrasonic) the impedance can drop to low values and put your amp at risk hence the resistor in series. A crossover for any tweeter (moving coil or pizo) driver will require proper measurement (acoustic measurement) and design. If your not prepared to do the work then the piezo route is cheapest and will likely give you a good performance to price ratio, i.e. dont waste money on expensive horns.
 30th January 2013, 02:28 PM #3429 diyAudio Member   Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Whitstable, Kent, England Thanks LJ Point taken, I'm just not technical enough to be able to design the tweeter crossover properly even though I think I have the capability to construct it..... Piezos, safer option but I may choose the front mounted type so if I meet a spaker guru who could improve tweeters in the future, I have the option to replace (I do prefer the look of the rear mounted piezos tho). Cheers
diyAudio Member

Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
 Originally Posted by brummiejon The guy at blue arran didnt really understand the concept behind the boominator...
That unfortunately shows. None of the driver he suggest can be used for a Boominator. None of them.

If you are in Europe or Australia, you use the p.audio HP10W. And nothing else. It is the only driver that will work.

If you are in the USA, you can use the Goldwood GW-1058 as a direct replacement. It will not be as good but it will work, and the difference will be miniscule.

If you want a light version you use the Eminence Basslite S2010.

There are no other drivers that can be used. At. All.

Last edited by Saturnus; 30th January 2013 at 08:06 PM.

 Posting Rules You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts BB code is On Smilies are On [IMG] code is On HTML code is OffTrackbacks are Off Pingbacks are Off Refbacks are Off Forum Rules

 New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:40 AM.