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Old 21st November 2012, 06:16 PM   #3341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
Hi.
Amp9-doesn't play loud enough without Berhinger Xenyx 302. With this conected i am able to blow 2A fuse in 12V. Is it ok with 5A? how can i make it not play sub 100HZ?
For a big headroom/efficiency boost, I use 1000u cap added in series to 4 ohm woofer for my own portable (to decrease load at subharmonic). That is a roll-off, not a block. The amplifier "wants" to drive inductance, so locate these new caps closer to the woofers, not directly onto the amplifier (so there's some cable between the amp and caps). One cap for left and another cap for right. It is that easy.

You can also "right size" the amplifier's input cap. These are found on the board, series in between the volume knob and amplifier. Usually, they're very close to the volume knob, if the board has one, or else they're very close to the input jacks. Smaller sizes will make a roll-off.

"Right Size" in both cases means choosing the smallest size that doesn't reduce audible bass response.

If you do both ("right sized" input caps and output caps), that will conserve resources by eliminating waste, and then Amp6 will probably be enough amplifier. You're in for a nice surprise.
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
When connected to my phone at max volume and I swap between 12-24V there is not much difference in volume. Is this due to input signal to low? Bjoern
Input signal too low is one way to look at it.
Amplifier gain too low is the other way to look at it (most amplifier designers assume loud 1980's CD player is the source).
Check the Amp6 forum threads at 41hz and get directions on how to simply parallel an additional resistor on someplace to boost the gain.

Alternatively, the Muse TA2020 is extremely easy to mod, with all through hole components (you won't need a magnifying glass to find SMD's in your carpet). Look for the caps that are in-series to the volume pot, and those are your input caps, and then look for the resistors that are in series between the input caps and amp (probably the resistors are right at the input caps). . . easily parallel more resistors onto the existing resistors and this addition will fit onto the bottom of the board really really easily (right onto the pins of the existing resistors).

There's no need to set the gain higher than just enough to allow the phone to push the (fully charged) amplifier to just barely start clipping.

Be sure to right size some output caps (series to the woofer) before adjusting the amplifier gain settings, if you don't want to do the gain settings surgery twice (amplifier has more headroom after adding output caps). Next, set the gain. And, lastly, right-size the input caps.

P.S.
With output caps added series to the woofers (efficiency), with right-sized input caps (slight bass roll off), and with higher gain settings (so your phone can push the amp), you're in for a heck of a surprising power boost.
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Old 21st November 2012, 08:06 PM   #3342
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
Hi.
Amp9-doesn't play loud enough whitout Berhinger Xenyx 302. Whit this conected i am able to blow 2A fuse in 12V. Is it ok with 5A? how can i make it not play sub 100HZ?
When conected to my phone at max volume and i swap betveen 12-24V there is not mutch difference in volume. Is this due to input signal to low?
Bjoern
Fuse should be minimum 10A and preferably 15A, otherwise it's not big enough for peak output in 24V mode. The chip has over-current shutdown, over-temperature shutdown etc etc so don't worry about it. The fuse is meant to protect the battery from short-cuts, not to protect the amp.

Input gain on the chip is designed for line signals. It cannot be adjusted so you must feed it line signals, for example from a preamp like your Behringer mixer or through a line trafo.

Easiest way to cut bass is to change the input caps on the amp to a lower value.

Last edited by Saturnus; 21st November 2012 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 21st November 2012, 10:15 PM   #3343
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I think that Amp6 gain can be adjusted like any other TA2020.
Amp6 components R2, R4, R5, R6?
Click the image to open in full size.
I guess R2, R4--parallel additional resistors of same value onto trackside for huge boost?
Does that do it? Or is it the other two resistors?
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 21st November 2012 at 10:28 PM.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 05:07 AM   #3344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielwritesbac View Post
I think that Amp6 gain can be adjusted like any other TA2020.
Please read the posts you are replying to. Saxoman has an amp9 which has the TAA4100A chip, not the TA2020.

It was the second word in his post after: "Hi".

Last edited by Saturnus; 22nd November 2012 at 05:12 AM.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 10:10 AM   #3345
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Hi, Is this the best way to wire up my two solar panels?
Do i put them on a switch for when the unit is not in use?
Will i bother with a regulator? here is a link again to the solar panels i am going to buy:
Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics
Here is a diagram of the way i was going to wire them in:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 11:38 AM   #3346
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Originally Posted by ron1 View Post
Hi, Is this the best way to wire up my two solar panels?[/url]
Well, move the switch to be in series with the fuse. I think you want to be able to switch the amp on and off.
P.S.
Wow, rather gigantic price.
Isn't it less expensive to get 1 of 5w solar panel instead of 2 of 2.5w solar panels?
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 22nd November 2012 at 11:41 AM.
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Old 22nd November 2012, 12:52 PM   #3347
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Yes i do have a switch inline with the fuse,i didnt show it as i am only looking for information in relation to the wiring of the solar panels.
I am looking for either one panel on one (top) side or 2 panels on the 2 (top) sides to fit between the slot for the wiring on top of the box. The panels i am only interested in are within the available dimmentions on the top of the box. >279x393mm.
Any suggestions for a good solar panel website would be appreciated, plus which ones to use and the requirements of a regulator?
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Old 23rd November 2012, 07:00 PM   #3348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Fuse should be minimum 10A and preferably 15A, otherwise it's not big enough for peak output in 24V mode. The chip has over-current shutdown, over-temperature shutdown etc etc so don't worry about it. The fuse is meant to protect the battery from short-cuts, not to protect the amp.

Input gain on the chip is designed for line signals. It cannot be adjusted so you must feed it line signals, for example from a preamp like your Behringer mixer or through a line trafo.

Easiest way to cut bass is to change the input caps on the amp to a lower value.
After i read this i tested it in a 3000 square meter's sportshall. It plays loud as hell I started low and ad more and more gain, people started to mowe away and was amased of how lous it is. I couldn't stop grindin. I only had a 7A fuse but it was enough, when it strt to clip i turned back down.
Maybe i don't have to filter sub 100 hz? Ore could i just use Equlizer to set it lower? Aigain thank you very mutch for making this possible.
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Old 25th November 2012, 08:02 PM   #3349
axebay is offline axebay  Sweden
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Got an extremely cool idea today, to build in a cooling system with electric pump, just press a button and you'll get a cold sex on the beach
The cooling system will have a container in stainless steel together with a peltier and a cooler. The cooling system will take extra power so 4 5W Solar Cell panel 5 Watt 12 Volt Garden Fountain pond Battery Charger +Diode | eBay ,3-4 7Ah batteries and a Phocos CIS05 Laderegulator - Regulatorer - Sol energi - Shop would take care of that. Problem is where to mount the system without destroying the boominator design. The distance between the speakers are calculated so i cant make the compartement in the middle bigger?
If put the system on one of the sides it would block a port, but perhaps I can have 4 ports(2 on the front and 2 on the back)?
If neither is possible I'll put the system on the top.
What are your thoughts on this?
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Old 25th November 2012, 09:10 PM   #3350
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Problem is where to mount the system without destroying the boominator design. The distance between the speakers are calculated so i cant make the compartement in the middle bigger?
You can make the middle compartment bigger, no problem. I think your major problem will be having enough power.

Peltier element are seriously ineffective. If I recall correctly the most effective peltiers have around 10% efficiency if ambient temperature is optimal and cooling is optimal. Let's just assume it's not, and go with 5% efficiency.

A cup of water of 100ml takes around 420Ws to heat or cool one degree. Let's just round that up to 1.2Wh per degree.

If ambient temperature is 25 degrees, then you need to cool it 20 degrees, and remember that 5% effieciency, that's times 20 again.

So all in all you need around 480Wh or 40Ah to cool one cup of water.

I may have made a mistake here as everything is from memory but at the end of the day, it's a really really bad idea.

But since you're at the beach already, why not water cooling. 15m of tubing, something weigh the end down so you get to the cold water at the bottom, and a water pump. That's about it, really.

Last edited by Saturnus; 25th November 2012 at 09:14 PM.
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