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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 19th November 2012, 03:54 PM   #3331
axebay is offline axebay  Sweden
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Originally Posted by danielwritesbac View Post
If you search ebay for non-glass solar panels, you'll find a rectangular 5 watt and a nearly square 5 watt. These are light weight and there's no glass to break.
Is this the one http://www.ebay.com/itm/5watt-encaps...item3ccc74d26c ?
How do I know if they are amporpheus?
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Old 19th November 2012, 03:58 PM   #3332
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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So two of these panels would be sufficent to charge the batteries? I will finish off the build and then add the solar panels in a few weeks. I will have to look into how to wire the panels to the batteries but i will do a drawing and look for conformation when i go to install them. Thanks.
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Old 20th November 2012, 12:12 AM   #3333
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Originally Posted by ron1 View Post
So two of these panels would be sufficent to charge the batteries? I will finish off the build and then add the solar panels in a few weeks. I will have to look into how to wire the panels to the batteries but i will do a drawing and look for conformation when i go to install them. Thanks.
One of those in full sun will charge a big car battery. There is more than enough current to destroy a small battery. However, four of these in the shade will not charge a car battery although that is just enough for a maintenance charge.

If that wasn't complicated enough, 6 of those in full sun will run the Boominator at max. However, 21 volts is too high.

Problem1: Needs voltage regulation (except for amplifiers that list 21v as permissible in the datasheet, and batteries of at least 18v, such as cordless drill batteries).
Problem2: Enough current to run an amp will "hot charge" a little battery far too fast, ruining the battery (except that motorcycle and ride-on mower batteries will probably withstand fast charge current since they do withstand alternators/generators).

This is not the fault of the panels; however, just panels is a really incomplete answer.
Those inexpensive panels do vary by sample, as expected for that price, and the fix is that each panel needs its own private series schottky diode, so that the weakest panel cannot hinder the strongest panel.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 20th November 2012 at 12:16 AM.
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Old 20th November 2012, 01:00 AM   #3334
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Oh, I forgot. This is for 2nd order filter so remember to inverse the tweeter.

Higher order filters than 2nd order is not recommended.
I don't know anything about filters. Downloaded a 2 way plugin for the mini dsp and satt parametre as you sugested. The sound became mutch better. Just wonder, how high can i play on this? Do i get a warning before anything goes to hell? I conected a small Xenyx 302 usb and it seems that there are no limit on how loud it became XD insane! Im testing it with cheap Biltema 12 7,2 Ah bateries but they work realy well i think.
Im not able to hear any difference between 12-24v, maby jus a tiny bit, but chip is getting hot in 24v mode. When i connect amp to batery there is some kind of welding feel to it, like when you short something, is this normal? My awake diode does not light up.
Tested in a large sportshall today and it did the job as our normal PA setup, hell i brought it outside and it played even better.
This is a genius build cant thank Mr Saturnus enough for his effort on this.
Hopeforly i will get a chanse to compare with normal Boominator or maby i build one just to compare.
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Old 20th November 2012, 06:07 AM   #3335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielwritesbac View Post
One of those in full sun will charge a big car battery. There is more than enough current to destroy a small battery.
No. The panels ron1 are looking at are optimal. They will not fry a standard Boominator battery. They produce sufficient power even in the shade as they are amorphous panel and not crystalline. And the voltage is optimal for changing lead batteries without overcharging them. They also have built in Schottky diode.

Just one thing to note. Don't disconnect the battery while playing. The panels will fry the amp if the batteries aren't connected.

Last edited by Saturnus; 20th November 2012 at 06:16 AM.
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Old 20th November 2012, 04:12 PM   #3336
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Originally Posted by ThokN View Post
Yeah we made the middle compartment wider. Actually we have room for 4x12V 9Ah batteries. (2 pairs of 2pieces in series giving us 24V 18Ah or 12V 36Ah) so we have a lot of power in our boominator We did this because we both have an Amp6 and Amp9, which we can swap between depending on how big a party we want

And just ask if you have any questions about the drawer we made!
Hey ThokN How do you make the swap between amp6 and amp9? is it only the power- or also the speakers connection you make the swap on?
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Old 20th November 2012, 07:10 PM   #3337
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Hey ThokN How do you make the swap between amp6 and amp9? is it only the power- or also the speakers connection you make the swap on?
You have to switch power, inputs and output, unless you want a really short-lived system.
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Old 20th November 2012, 07:18 PM   #3338
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Hey ThokN How do you make the swap between amp6 and amp9? is it only the power- or also the speakers connection you make the swap on?
The little one, she needs a voltage regulator.
Or, hookup to a 12v battery like with a DPDT switch that could have it use one OR the other 12v battery. A DPDT Center Off switch from the auto parts store can do it (switch wiring=amp onto center hookup, one battery onto Up, the other battery Down). A DPDT ON/ON switch can swap the speakers (switch wiring=speakers onto center hookup, big amp UP, little amp Down). A DPDT ON/ON switch can swap the inputs (switch wiring=input jack onto center hookup, big amp up, little amp down)
So, if we had a convenient 6 pole double throw switch. . .

Earlier I posted several times about an efficient non-tripath class D from Sure with wide range voltage tolerance, and one of those might be more convenient than two tripath.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 20th November 2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 20th November 2012, 07:33 PM   #3339
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
You have to switch power, inputs and output, unless you want a really short-lived system.
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielwritesbac View Post
The little one, she needs a voltage regulator.
Or, hookup to a 12v battery like with a DPDT switch that could have it use one OR the other 12v battery. A DPDT Center Off switch from the auto parts store can do it (switch wiring=amp onto center hookup, one battery onto Up, the other battery Down). A DPDT ON/ON switch can swap the speakers (switch wiring=speakers onto center hookup, big amp UP, little amp Down). A DPDT ON/ON switch can swap the inputs (switch wiring=input jack onto center hookup, big amp up, little amp down)
So, if we had a convenient 6 pole double throw switch. . .

Earlier I posted several times about an efficient non-tripath class D from Sure with wide range voltage tolerance, and one of those might be more convenient than two tripath.
Thank you very much for the help :-)

Last edited by radermacherdk; 20th November 2012 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 21st November 2012, 05:00 PM   #3340
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Hi.
Amp9-doesn't play loud enough whitout Berhinger Xenyx 302. Whit this conected i am able to blow 2A fuse in 12V. Is it ok with 5A? how can i make it not play sub 100HZ?
When conected to my phone at max volume and i swap betveen 12-24V there is not mutch difference in volume. Is this due to input signal to low?
Bjoern
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