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Old 18th November 2012, 06:04 PM   #3321
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Try with LP 1800hz, HP 2600Hz, filter type L-R and tweeter dampened by 4dB.

Last edited by Saturnus; 18th November 2012 at 06:07 PM.
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Old 18th November 2012, 08:37 PM   #3322
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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I'm having a hard time finding double adhesive heat conducting tape. Maybe it's because I don't know what to search for in danish (searching danish sites).

Anyway... I've found this: https://elextra.dk/main.aspx?page=article&artno=H16982

Is this it?
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Old 19th November 2012, 05:54 AM   #3323
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post

Is this it?
No. Look in computer supply stores. They are most often used to glue heatsinks onto RAM chips.
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Old 19th November 2012, 06:38 AM   #3324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
I'm having a hard time finding double adhesive heat conducting tape. Maybe it's because I don't know what to search for in danish (searching danish sites).
Thermal adhesive paste is an option. That is thermal glue.
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Old 19th November 2012, 07:02 AM   #3325
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Try with LP 1800hz, HP 2600Hz, filter type L-R and tweeter dampened by 4dB.
Oh, I forgot. This is for 2nd order filter so remember to inverse the tweeter.

Higher order filters than 2nd order is not recommended.
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Old 19th November 2012, 07:40 AM   #3326
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Originally Posted by axebay View Post
These were recomended earlier in the thread Solar Cell Huge - 5.2W - Solar - Components - All you need to prototype . If I were to mount 2 of these on the boominator in series and one were blocked, would it stil be able to charge the battery. If not it would be a better solution to have 4 of Solar Cell Large - 2.5W - Solar - Components - All you need to prototype and mount 2 in series and paralell the pairs?
If you search ebay for non-glass solar panels, you'll find a rectangular 5 watt and a nearly square 5 watt. These are light weight and there's no glass to break.

You can put a schottky diode in series to the cord of each solar panel.
Then you can wire them all in parallel. This also allows you to mount additional solar panels on the sides of Boominator. Each panel has its own series schottky so that if one panel is in the shade, it cannot hold back the rest.

Solar panels in series is just like resistors in series--insufficient current.
Solar panels in parallel is just like resistors in parallel--current is doubled.

P.S.
Series schottky for solar panel can be:
Put 1n5819 in parallel with a larger schottky, such as a 3 ampere model, and this combo will provide absolutely minimum loss. Treat this team as if it were a single diode. You'll get a little voltage boost. The 1n5819 is too frail to do the job all by itself and would voltage drop severely under load; however, a combo with 1n5819||SR345 (one unit) will run the 1n5819 in shade, but lay over the 1n5819 in full sun and this high current condition is "caught" by the 3 ampere schottky, preventing damage to the 1n5819 and also preserving efficiency. There, you get minimum loss in all conditions.
When I paralleled 1n5819's directly onto my SR260's, my voltage went from 18v to 19v, IN THE SHADE.

P.P.S.
I am still puzzling out what sort of solar regulator to use. The CMP does work but takes one or more 10,000uF caps at output to smooth the PWM chopping signal into useful DC and an additional series diode to defeat the onboard battery monitor to avoid running down the battery when in the dark. Oh boy. Surely there is something more convenient? One possible benefit of the CMP is that total voltage drop, including the regulator, the 10,000uF caps at output, and the schottky in-between the charger and battery is 0.8 volts. That is rather amazingly good for a regulator. Another benefit is the blue box with little dial (a trimmer) under the hood to set whatever voltage is needed by your battery.
An additional inconvenience is lack of current management, so when in full sun your 10 watts to 20 watts worth of solar panels and pulse mode (chopper) charger with enough force to charge up a big truck battery. . . sends that much force into whatever little battery is in the boomer. Kerblooie! It is almost enough in the shade and far too much in the sun.
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Old 19th November 2012, 07:53 AM   #3327
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielwritesbac View Post
Solar panels in series is just like resistors in series--insufficient current.
Solar panels in parallel is just like resistors in parallel--current is doubled.

Surely there is something more convenient?
Not exactly.

PV cells in series multiplies voltage and multiplies current in parallel.

The afore mentioned Phocos solar charger perhaps?

Last edited by Saturnus; 19th November 2012 at 08:00 AM.
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Old 19th November 2012, 12:05 PM   #3328
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Try with LP 1800hz, HP 2600Hz, filter type L-R and tweeter dampened by 4dB.
Thank you, it seem to do it. Any sugestion for a musicplayer that have higher output than mobilephones?
Bjoern
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Old 19th November 2012, 12:57 PM   #3329
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Nearly finished my attempt! just after priming and sanding it, then i will be wiring it all up. I tested it when all panels were fixed and ohh yea its LOUD. but im looking into the solar panals i can put on it. Was thinking of having two on top, was thinking of these:
Solar Powered 12V 2.4W Battery Trickle Charger : Solar Trickle Chargers : Maplin Electronics
Would they be any good? or does anyone have a cheaper better recommended ones?
I will post pictures of the build when i have it sprayed and looking the part, but sure heres a pic of it primed:
Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.
So any suggestions would be appreciated for the solar panels and also would i need a regulator for the 2 panels?
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Old 19th November 2012, 02:27 PM   #3330
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Looks pretty much ideal to me. No extra charger needed. And they are the right power. 4-6W amorphous panels is ideal as much more would necessitate a controller and losses are inevitable with a controller.
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