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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 2nd October 2012, 11:10 AM   #3271
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooldox View Post
Yeah, I guess I could've used the 'search in thread' function. Sorry about that.

But do they work reliably? Can you vouch for them in a setup with continuous charging from a solar-panel? Since they're considerably smaller, I was thinking of paralleling 3 of them into a total of approx. 30 Ah...

Thanks in advance, yet again.
Not sure how you would parallel them unless you take them apart. They come with a male and female standard barrel plug. At least the battery I bought over eBay does.

I would also not recommend trickle charging LiPo batteries unless you have a controller, as each cell will keep charging until they hit a nominal 4.2V, which will burn your AMP6 in a normal 4 cell configuration.

Instead you could try the Voltaic V60, which can be trickle charged and can supply 5V/2A for USB-charging and user-selectable 12V/4A, 16V/3.5A or 18V/3A with an output capacity of 16,000 mAh.

You can also grab their solar panels to go with it, the 16.8 Watt, 18 Volt Panel will fit the Boominator nicely.

At least that's the safer bet and the V60 battery includes the proper circuitry to be trickle charged but I am not sure you can use the battery at the same time.

Pretty sure Saturnus can chime in on that.
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Old 2nd October 2012, 07:59 PM   #3272
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Hi, Going to build the boominator as it looks to be the best design around. I have all the main parts on order:
4xP.audio hp10w
4x piezo source KSN1001A (do i need to run these in before i start the build? and what is the best way?)
1x Amp6basic
1x USB car charger (to charge Iphone)
I will get the rest of the bits as i go along but i will be using 3x 7ah sealed lead acid batteries. Im hoping to start the build in a few weeks when i source the right wood.
I will need help with some final drawing schematics, eg speaker & resistor wiring, I have a good idea but i just want to be confident before i wire it. and also where best to wire the USB charger to. I will post any drawings i think il be using in the next few weeks and any build pictures.
Also what is the best way to keep an eye on the battery capacity? i was thinking of using a basic 12v analogue meter, would this be advisable?
Any help will be greatly appreciated! and i know i prob have missed some of these answers somewhere in the thread.
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Old 9th October 2012, 08:45 AM   #3273
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Can someone please have a look at this diagram and let me know if all is in order.
Also what size fuse would be recommended and would you recommend to wire up a analogue 12v meter as shown?
Thanks.
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Old 9th October 2012, 09:54 AM   #3274
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Originally Posted by ron1 View Post
Can someone please have a look at this diagram and let me know if all is in order.
Also what size fuse would be recommended and would you recommend to wire up a analogue 12v meter as shown?
Thanks.
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Looks fine to me, apart from two things.
I don't know if a 12v voltmeter will suffice, I think SLA's exceed 12v when fully charged, but I am not sure.
You might want to place the tweeter cables and resistors in the electronics compartment, in case you want to replace them one day.
Well that's just my ten cents
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Old 9th October 2012, 09:57 AM   #3275
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Good idea KJ, Is there anything that you would recommend for keeping an eye on the battery power?
Also how would i go about playing pink noise through the tweeters before i install them?
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Old 10th October 2012, 09:36 PM   #3276
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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I need a quick reply to this if possible,I'm going to cut the centre braces tomorrow. As I have the new hp 10w's and the wood is cut to the boominatorII spec. The magnets will not meet, so do I just cut the outer 10 holes and then glue the magnet to the centre brace as there would be too big of a gap between the magnets if I was to cut a hole for them to meet. Just want to be 100% certain before I go cutting.
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Old 11th October 2012, 04:54 AM   #3277
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ron1 View Post
I need a quick reply to this if possible,I'm going to cut the centre braces tomorrow. As I have the new hp 10w's and the wood is cut to the boominatorII spec. The magnets will not meet, so do I just cut the outer 10 holes and then glue the magnet to the centre brace as there would be too big of a gap between the magnets if I was to cut a hole for them to meet. Just want to be 100% certain before I go cutting.
Correct.
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Old 11th October 2012, 11:31 AM   #3278
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Thanks Saturnus, I just wanted to be sure. Pictures to follow.
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Old 11th October 2012, 12:56 PM   #3279
ron1 is offline ron1  Ireland
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Did anyone put a heat sink onto the TA2020 chip?
Will I bother trying to put somethiong on or will it be ok?
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Old 11th October 2012, 02:43 PM   #3280
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Originally Posted by ron1 View Post
Did anyone put a heat sink onto the TA2020 chip?
Will I bother trying to put somethiong on or will it be ok?
You don't have to use a heat sink. But it's highly recommended. Or as most, use thermal double adhesive tape and tape it to the side of the cabinet you're using.
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