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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 2nd September 2012, 02:00 PM   #3211
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Default How to connect the speakers

Hey!

I've spent a couple of days reading this thread. I've bought 4pcs of the P.audio HP-10W and 4pcs of the cheap piezos found here: https://www.elextra.dk/main.aspx?pag...e&artno=H19399 .

I have a small T2020 amp. that I would like to run these 4 speakers and 4 piezos. The physical layout will be about same as the standard Boominator. My plan this far is to make two parallel loops for each channel(left/right), one channel for the two subs in series, and another for the two piezos in series. How do I make a filter to avoid the subs getting high frequencies and avoid the piezos to get low? Wouldn't that improve the soundquality?

All in all, what is the proper way to connect the speakers to my amplifier, and what electrical parts would improve the sound?

If someone from Denmark would help me in danish per email instead, it would be much appreciated! But otherwise, hope someone will take time to help me
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Old 2nd September 2012, 06:35 PM   #3212
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Hey,
I am almost done with my boominator now.
It plays well and Ok loud.
But i hoped it would play a little louder.
I tested the dB with a random application for my phone, and it only said 70-75 dB.
Is there any method to give a little boost? A pre-amp or something?

My setup is:
4*Hp-10w
4* Monacor mpt-001
Muse ta2020 amp.

Btw. some pictures of the build-process.
Boominator - Imgur
I have installed the top of the cabinet, since the pictures.

Greetings Hanne
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Old 2nd September 2012, 07:43 PM   #3213
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Now I doubt the accuracy of an app but it should be playing around 110dB easily at 1 meters distance. If it's only playing 70-75dB the amp isn't working at all. That would be the volume it could play directly on the phone output.

First is to check if you've done everything correctly and that every part functions correctly separately. So you test every speaker separately, observe correct polarity, test the amp with different line inputs, so you try both with an output from your computer and from your iphone. And so on. Simply test if there is any part that is not functioning correctly. It could be as simple as a bad cable.

Held og lykke.

Last edited by Saturnus; 2nd September 2012 at 07:48 PM.
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Old 2nd September 2012, 07:48 PM   #3214
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Now I doubt the accuracy of an app but it should be playing around 110dB easily at 1 meters distance.

First is to check if you've done everything correctly and that every part functions correctly separately. So you test every speaker separately, observe correct polarity, test the amp with different line inputs, so you try both with an output from your computer and from your iphone. And so on. Simply test if there is any part that is not functioning correctly. It could be as simple as a bad cable.

Held og lykke.
Yeah, that application might be inaccurate, but not 35 dB
I will test it tomorrow and hope i find something wrong.
Thank you for your quick response!
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Old 3rd September 2012, 06:40 AM   #3215
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanne11 View Post
Is there any method to give a little boost? A pre-amp or something?
Fortunately, the Muse TA2020 amp has full size resistors,
. . .so you can make settings.

See also posts 3204, 3193, 3192, 3190, 3169, and 3165.
Click the image to open in full size.
You can compare the resistors to: TA2020 Datasheet.
Scroll down and look at the left side of the schematic.
Find Pins 9,10 & 12,13 and you have found the inputs.
Find the input caps (Ci) on both board and schematic.
Find resistors (Ri) that are inbound of your input caps.
Change those resistors to boost gain louder for iphone.
-or-
Instead of boosting the amp, build a Cmoy preamplifier.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 3rd September 2012 at 06:57 AM.
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Old 4th September 2012, 07:05 PM   #3216
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanne11 View Post
Yeah, that application might be inaccurate, but not 35 dB
I will test it tomorrow and hope i find something wrong.
Thank you for your quick response!
Some time ago I also tried to make some sound pressure level measurements but also concluded that it showed a way too low value.

Try to take a look at this (from the description of a random app):

REMEMBER!! The smart phone microphones were aligned to human voice (300-3400Hz, 40-60dB). Therefore the maximum values are LIMITED by the manufacturers. The very loud sound cannot be recognized. Moto Droid(max.100), Galaxy S(81dB), Galaxy S2(98dB)...
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Old 4th September 2012, 07:42 PM   #3217
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skipper87 View Post
Some time ago I also tried to make some sound pressure level measurements but also concluded that it showed a way too low value.

Try to take a look at this (from the description of a random app):

REMEMBER!! The smart phone microphones were aligned to human voice (300-3400Hz, 40-60dB). Therefore the maximum values are LIMITED by the manufacturers. The very loud sound cannot be recognized. Moto Droid(max.100), Galaxy S(81dB), Galaxy S2(98dB)...
Easy way to make it work more accurately if it's microphone limited would be to measure at 10 meters distance instead of 1 meter. It should be exactly 10dB down (or at 100m distance where it should be 20dB down but then there's a lot of other factors in play).
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Old 5th September 2012, 03:24 PM   #3218
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I got this anwer from P-audio
Dear Bjorn,

We issue production line for producing 1 x SN(ii)-10MB. Please advise how to ship them by air or courier?

Thank you,
Victoria Wit
Hope it dont take ages
What about this driver? P-Audio SN10-300MB 10" 300W 8 Ohm Loudspeaker Driver 174.42
Is it the new version of sn2 10 MB?
Bjoern
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Old 6th September 2012, 06:37 PM   #3219
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Location: Kolding, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
I got this anwer from P-audio
Dear Bjorn,

We issue production line for producing 1 x SN(ii)-10MB. Please advise how to ship them by air or courier?
lol, thats hilarious.
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Old 8th September 2012, 05:36 PM   #3220
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Location: Aalesund
Driver=75 $. Fraight= 295$ =O
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