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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 28th August 2012, 01:31 PM   #3201
Katch is offline Katch  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
No.
Has no one built one yet?
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Old 28th August 2012, 04:01 PM   #3202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Katch View Post
Has no one built one yet?
Nope.

But I'm building one. It will take some time, but I will make sure to post loads of pictures and stuff to help future builders.
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Old 29th August 2012, 06:48 AM   #3203
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Default P.audio SN10MB series II

Hi.
I finaly start collecting parts for a Signature build but only got 3 P.audio SN10MB series II from Blu aran. Any idea where to by one of this? I also realised that my soildering skills have left me after to many years away so i have get somone to asamble my Amp9 basic or by a pre asembeled one.
I have tried to contact 41 hz but no reply yet. Maby here?
How long could it play on batteries and what kind of powersupply would be perfect for charge and supply?
Best regards from Bjorn
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Old 29th August 2012, 05:16 PM   #3204
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Default Soldering tools

Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
I also realised that my soldering skills have left me after to many years away.
The almost easy fix is Gel Flux. This is a form of flux packed with a little bit of petroleum jelly. Here in the USA, canisters of the stuff are available at the radio shack store. This is extremely easy. . . until cleanup time. It takes alcohol + a little bit of dish soap (like a few drops of dawn per 2 cups 90%+ alcohol) to make a solution that, along with the help of a toothbrush, can wash the board clean afterwards (and then you rinse with 90%+ alcohol), but at least the solder connections are very beautiful.

People have different methods for keeping the soldering iron clean (for better connections). The mainstream method seems to involve a dodgy little wet sponge for wiping the soldering iron tip, but mine was unexpectedly flammable, so I had to think up a different method. Now I find it fast and easy to wipe the black stuff off of the soldering iron tip with a handy #0000 (or similar) steel wool that sets in the soldering tray and lasts a very long time without any trouble.

Now that I've gotten older, I can't hold stuff absolutely perfectly still every time, and, unfortunately, with 60/40 solder, that can make for random failures from weak solder joints (a pretty bad idea for a portable item). However, the problem does not occur with 63/37 solder and all of those connections are usually quite durable.

I'm not ashamed to admit that I heat up the De-Soldering iron at the same time as the soldering iron. It is Murphey's Law. If you didn't heat up the De-Soldering iron, there will be a soldering error. Sometimes, we could just heat the solder error and simply shake the hot solder off the board. But, I wouldn't start a large project without have a De-Soldering iron available.

Another helper may be a variable power soldering iron, like the common 15-30 where you can turn down the power for frail parts (like some ceramic and tantalum caps) or turn up the power for larger connections like big diodes and cables.

A strongly lit workspace is a must. I boost the room light with both an led headlamp and a table lamp in addition to the ceiling fixture. There is also the magnifier+light "gooseneck" lamp available at most craft/hobby stores for making fine work much easier. Engineering glasses (makes things look bigger without requiring decreased distance) can be used to spot SMD's.

Well, there was the briefing on soldering tools. Its going to be a lot easier if you've got good tools for it.
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Last edited by danielwritesbac; 29th August 2012 at 05:19 PM.
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Old 30th August 2012, 10:06 AM   #3205
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How do i mount 407n? Innside or outside. The hight of the sn11-10mb are 132mm + foam. Is it better to make a puck magnet to magnet or use center brace as spacer?
What about vent hoals in magnet should it be open between them.

Last edited by saxomann; 30th August 2012 at 10:11 AM.
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Old 30th August 2012, 12:35 PM   #3206
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
How do i mount 407n? Innside or outside. The hight of the sn11-10mb are 132mm + foam. Is it better to make a puck magnet to magnet or use center brace as spacer?
What about vent hoals in magnet should it be open between them.
The SN-10BM II magnets are neodynium. It makes no difference whether they are mounted "magnet to magnet" or against the center brace since the magnet is hidden and shielded inside the chassis structure so it will have very little flux contact with the other driver.

The vented pole piece in speaker driver's primary function is cooling of the pole piece to increase power handling. And a Boominator hardly needs to have the full 600W power handling per driver.

The vented pole piece has little to no effect on the sound contrary to popular belief. The reason is simple. With a 10" driver it's only about 2-3% of the total amount of air moved by the cone that will flow through the pole piece. And even though there will be a slight compression of that air resulting from blocking the pole piece it is really miniscule compared to the enormous compression the rest of the moved air sees in the vented cabinet.

I suggest routing the center brace to reasonable working depth 3-4mm from either side depending on whether you have the grill in front and mounted from the inside or not. Remember to route out 6 "ears" to accommodate the chassis. Use a large amount of plastic padding to secure them in place.
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Old 30th August 2012, 02:10 PM   #3207
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Didn't get the ears part strait? I'm now on my way to the garage too build the box.
Should the *Signature be presice like sketchup?
Bjorn
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Old 30th August 2012, 03:13 PM   #3208
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
How do i mount 407n? Innside or outside.
I have mounted them on the outside, and routed a circle so that they only stick out ~ 0,3 mm. I think it looks pretty cool. In my case it's not a Boominator build, but here is a picture (speakers not finished), so you can see how it looks:
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File Type: jpg imageuph.jpg (431.7 KB, 379 views)
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Old 30th August 2012, 03:36 PM   #3209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saxomann View Post
Didn't get the ears part strait? I'm now on my way to the garage too build the box.
Should the *Signature be presice like sketchup?
Bjorn
No. You have to think this through yourself. Signature was and is a thought experiment of what I'd do if I had unlimited funds and still wanted to build something in the same design envelope. So yes, everything should match together and play phenomenally. However, it's never been built or tested before so you're traveling on untouched ground.

The main reason why I haven't built it myself yet is that I find it much more fun to design new stuff or experiment with new technologies with the limited free time I have.
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Old 30th August 2012, 04:53 PM   #3210
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Ai! Then i just have to cross my fingers and hope for the best I don't have time to learn how to decide bassreflex dimention or box volume so i hope it will be ok XP
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