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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 27th May 2012, 01:19 PM   #2821
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No. The 220mm is correct. It's smaller than the cone too. You're counting the suspension.
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Old 27th May 2012, 03:12 PM   #2822
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I'm having some problem with the switch to my batteries.
Heres a picture of how I wired everything.
Click the image to open in full size.
It is an on-off switch. (https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa...5-038-51&toc=0)
So the problem is when i shut it off (the switch) and then attempt to put it on there is no sound at all. To get it work I must take off the awakejumper and then put it back on.
Does anyone know where the problem is?
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Old 27th May 2012, 04:13 PM   #2823
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
No. The 220mm is correct. It's smaller than the cone too. You're counting the suspension.
Sorry, but I don't understand. Do you mean that the hole in the cabinet should be smaller that the widest diameter of the paper cone?
I'm not clear on what the suspension is? Is it the black foam on the rim of the driver? I measured inside of that.

--edit

Oh, NOW I get it! The paper cone has a part that is not conical but is parallell to the rim, it is folded and I guess that is a suspension for the cone. A bit slow today, I blame the very hot summer weather we have...
When measured without what I guess it the suspension the cones mouth is more like 196 mm...
Click the image to open in full size.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMAG0189.jpg (40.2 KB, 73 views)

Last edited by barbfa; 27th May 2012 at 04:26 PM. Reason: img site frelled
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Old 27th May 2012, 04:50 PM   #2824
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastanken View Post
I'm having some problem with the switch to my batteries. Heres a picture of how I wired everything.
The battery charger needs to be hooked directly to the batteries and not shut off by the switch! Unless it is made for such low voltage batteries, you might need a diode series to the battery charger to arrange for a little voltage drop.

10v solar panels sag down to 8v (and less--much less) when trying to charge batteries. This parallel wiring of solar panels simply isn't going to charge the batteries. You need your 10v solar panels in series, and the allegedly 20v will actually put out 15 or 16v (in really bright sun) which will get a voltage drop down to 14v or less in the charge controller and then charge the batteries.
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Old 27th May 2012, 05:18 PM   #2825
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danielwritesbac View Post
The battery charger needs to be hooked directly to the batteries and not shut off by the switch! Unless it is made for such low voltage batteries, you might need a diode series to the battery charger to arrange for a little voltage drop.

10v solar panels sag down to 8v (and less--much less) when trying to charge batteries. This parallel wiring of solar panels simply isn't going to charge the batteries. You need your 10v solar panels in series, and the allegedly 20v will actually put out 15 or 16v (in really bright sun) which will get a voltage drop down to 14v or less in the charge controller and then charge the batteries.
Thanks for the reply!
Forgot to mention that I can disconnect the cable from the switch to take it out of the boominator and go charge it. And I can also disconnent the cable that goes to the solar charge controller so I can take the batteries out.
Do you understand what I mean?

I still dont understand when I shut it off, and then when I turn it back on there is no sound?
I need to manually remove the jumper (on the amp6) and put it back there to get it to work again.

Regarding the solar panels I will connect them in series then.
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Old 27th May 2012, 05:52 PM   #2826
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Sorry for doubleposting but I think I know where the problem is.
This is how I wired (to the left)
But this is as it should be (to the right), right?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 27th May 2012, 05:55 PM   #2827
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastanken View Post
I'm having some problem with the switch to my batteries.
Heres a picture of how I wired everything.
Click the image to open in full size.
It is an on-off switch. (https://www.elfa.se/elfa3~se_sv/elfa...5-038-51&toc=0)
So the problem is when i shut it off (the switch) and then attempt to put it on there is no sound at all. To get it work I must take off the awakejumper and then put it back on.
Does anyone know where the problem is?
You could set your switch as awake/sleep OR mute/unmute jumper, the Amp6 uses very little power in idle..
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Old 27th May 2012, 05:58 PM   #2828
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bastanken View Post
Sorry for doubleposting but I think I know where the problem is.
This is how I wired (to the left)
But this is as it should be (to the right), right?

Click the image to open in full size.
Ouch, right is correct. To the left you're shorting the batteries - which I don't think I have to tell you, is a BAD thing
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Old 27th May 2012, 06:19 PM   #2829
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedras View Post
Ouch, right is correct. To the left you're shorting the batteries - which I don't think I have to tell you, is a BAD thing
hehe thats not good
Don't really know why I did like that cause I've done right with my switch to the leds.. Why didnt I just look at that switch?
Anyway thanks for the replys!
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Old 28th May 2012, 08:08 PM   #2830
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Great, my Tripath TAA4100A chip in my AMP9 is faulty.

Anyone know where I can source a new one?
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