The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine - Page 280

badman · 14th May 2012, 10:44 PM

Saturnus, my apologies- I seem to have borrowed your name, calling a project the "Kaboominator". I'd seen this thread, but didn't consciously register that I was borrowing part of the name. Sorry 'bout that.

HifiBoyDenmark · 15th May 2012, 03:55 PM

ive bought an alu casing for my amp but what kind of materiale should i place between the chip and the sidewall of the amp? i've seen a picture where there is a thin bended alu thing between and then with som kind of glue on each side (what glue can be used?)

Saturnus · 15th May 2012, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HifiBoyDenmark

ive bought an alu casing for my amp but what kind of materiale should i place between the chip and the sidewall of the amp? i've seen a picture where there is a thin bended alu thing between and then with som kind of glue on each side (what glue can be used?)

Use double adhesive thermal pads (usually available in computer specialist shops).

HifiBoyDenmark · 15th May 2012, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saturnus

Use double adhesive thermal pads (usually available in computer specialist shops).

i see

do we have a name for that in danish? and what kind og glue can be used og should i just screw it on?

Saturnus · 15th May 2012, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HifiBoyDenmark

i see

do we have a name for that in danish? and what kind og glue can be used og should i just screw it on?

I have no idea. It sort of goes without saying that if you use double adhesive thermal pads that you don't need glue or screws.

Campino Morten · 15th May 2012, 04:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HifiBoyDenmark

i see

do we have a name for that in danish? and what kind og glue can be used og should i just screw it on?

"Double adhesive" means that it has glue on both sides, so no extra glue is needed. In danish it's called "dobbeltklæbende termisk tape". It can be bought in most computer hardware stores.

Nielslutken · 15th May 2012, 05:09 PM

Is the chemical metal used for both glueing the magnets to the centerbrace aswell as the speakers to the cabinet? or is another glue needed for the last part?
have searched but haven't been able to find any info on which glue is needed to glue the speaker to the baffle.

thanks in advance

gmarsh · 16th May 2012, 12:53 PM

Figured I'd throw this up for people to poke at - the sketchup concept for my "imperial boominator".

I'm using imperial measurements - the design is 12x12x36 inches, which is slightly bigger than the original 90x30x30 cm. To keep the volume the same I've widened the center compartment to 4 inches, which allows wider 12aH batteries to be used instead of the usual 7aH size.

A few things aren't done:

- Rounding the outside edges of the box, to match the corner bumpers I bought which are designed to sit against a rounded edge.
- Holes in the center brace
- A final concept for how the battery compartment will look - I don't like the "double battery holder" I've created, and I'd like to model the electronics a bit better.

And a few notes:

- The speaker component in the drawing is modeled after a HP-10W, not the GW-1058 which I plan to use.
- Tweeters are GT-1001, and the tweeter model is also far from accurate
- Corners are McBride LPC-1, handles are McBride PH-1, ports are Goldwood PT-307.

Saturnus · 16th May 2012, 02:31 PM

gmarsh, I appreciate the effort but there are certain points that needs to be changed or at least considered.

1) Not sure if the volume will be accurate. Have to calculate that.

2) You should not change the port/handle construction. It serves multiple purposes as it is.

2a) The inner part of wood that the port/handle is constructed of braces the end piece.

2b) The port size is developed in order to have very high air flow in order to limit cone excursion under the Fp point helping the (usually first order) high pass filter in the amp input.

2c) The port shape is developed so that air flow noise because of the necessary high air flow is spread frequency instead of concentrated on a single frequency as it would be with a round port.

2d) The port placement is chosen in the middle of the end wall in order for the drivers to be evenly loaded to avoid variations between the drivers to occur which generates very destructive distortion at high volumes.

gmarsh · 16th May 2012, 03:58 PM

1) Volume is fairly close. The internal dimensions of a speaker compartment end up being 11x11x15 inches (29.74L) if you neglect the center brace, ports, etc. The standard Boominator is 27.6cm*27.6cm*39.6cm = 30.17L, so my box has -1.4% less volume inside - I'm suspecting manufacturing variation in the speakers, my using GW-1058's instead of HP-10Ws, etc. will have a more significant effect than that.

2) I was originally going to use a handle port with 12mm instead of 9mm plywood and a correspondingly larger handle size. Then I saw Phaedras's setup and thought it looked really clean, decided to go with separate handles/ports. To hit each of your points...

2a) Good call... I'll add a horizontal strip between handle/port to help with bracing.
2b) Not a problem for me (I'm using DSP for highpass)
2c) I figured larger port area in my case = less air velocity = less port noise.
2d) Don't really have an answer for that; do you expect my port construction to cause the speaker to undergo 'diagonal excursion' because of the port being close to the speaker?

14th May 2012, 10:44 PM	#2791
badman diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Sunny Tustin, SoCal	Saturnus, my apologies- I seem to have borrowed your name, calling a project the "Kaboominator". I'd seen this thread, but didn't consciously register that I was borrowing part of the name. Sorry 'bout that. __________________ I write for www.enjoythemusic.com in the DIY section. You may find yourself getting a preview of a project in-progress. Be warned!

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15th May 2012, 03:55 PM	#2792
HifiBoyDenmark diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2011	ive bought an alu casing for my amp but what kind of materiale should i place between the chip and the sidewall of the amp? i've seen a picture where there is a thin bended alu thing between and then with som kind of glue on each side (what glue can be used?)

15th May 2012, 05:09 PM	#2797
Nielslutken diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2011	Is the chemical metal used for both glueing the magnets to the centerbrace aswell as the speakers to the cabinet? or is another glue needed for the last part? have searched but haven't been able to find any info on which glue is needed to glue the speaker to the baffle. thanks in advance

16th May 2012, 02:31 PM	#2799
Saturnus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark	gmarsh, I appreciate the effort but there are certain points that needs to be changed or at least considered. 1) Not sure if the volume will be accurate. Have to calculate that. 2) You should not change the port/handle construction. It serves multiple purposes as it is. 2a) The inner part of wood that the port/handle is constructed of braces the end piece. 2b) The port size is developed in order to have very high air flow in order to limit cone excursion under the Fp point helping the (usually first order) high pass filter in the amp input. 2c) The port shape is developed so that air flow noise because of the necessary high air flow is spread frequency instead of concentrated on a single frequency as it would be with a round port. 2d) The port placement is chosen in the middle of the end wall in order for the drivers to be evenly loaded to avoid variations between the drivers to occur which generates very destructive distortion at high volumes.

16th May 2012, 03:58 PM	#2800
gmarsh diyAudio Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Halifax, NS, Canada	1) Volume is fairly close. The internal dimensions of a speaker compartment end up being 11x11x15 inches (29.74L) if you neglect the center brace, ports, etc. The standard Boominator is 27.6cm27.6cm39.6cm = 30.17L, so my box has -1.4% less volume inside - I'm suspecting manufacturing variation in the speakers, my using GW-1058's instead of HP-10Ws, etc. will have a more significant effect than that. 2) I was originally going to use a handle port with 12mm instead of 9mm plywood and a correspondingly larger handle size. Then I saw Phaedras's setup and thought it looked really clean, decided to go with separate handles/ports. To hit each of your points... 2a) Good call... I'll add a horizontal strip between handle/port to help with bracing. 2b) Not a problem for me (I'm using DSP for highpass) 2c) I figured larger port area in my case = less air velocity = less port noise. 2d) Don't really have an answer for that; do you expect my port construction to cause the speaker to undergo 'diagonal excursion' because of the port being close to the speaker?