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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 10th May 2012, 09:10 PM   #2771
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Why not build with HP-12W, just make the box a little bigger...
They have an extra DB in sens...

And dont put the magnets directly to eachouther, it will not give an extra sens.
have some centimeter between them.
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Old 10th May 2012, 09:12 PM   #2772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukasL View Post
Hey folks!
I am having a bit trouble finding the right resistors.
Can I use a 47 ohm, 2W carbon film resistor with the monacor MPT-001?

10ps Japan RM (RMG) resistor carbon film audio grade 2W 47ohm|eBay
Any resistor between 12-150ohms will be fine.
2W is sufficent.
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Old 10th May 2012, 10:02 PM   #2773
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Hi folks,

We want to up the sound quality in our boominator and use PHT-407N tweeters with a crossover, but in order to save money on crossovers is it possible to wire the 4 x PHT-407N on the same channel? I've taken a look at some examples of series/parallel wiring, but i'm not sure I understand it fully.

So is the following wiring possible and recommended if we use Monacor's DN2618(http://www.monacor.dk/produkter/hoej.../vnr/122260/):

Click the image to open in full size.

Or should we just go for one more crossover?
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Old 11th May 2012, 05:32 AM   #2774
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Another cross over. Tweeters in series and woofers in parallel.

I'm also wondering how you could even think it would work?

Last edited by Saturnus; 11th May 2012 at 05:35 AM.
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Old 11th May 2012, 07:33 AM   #2775
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I bave been wondering for a while if i have cut the bafflehole to small.
Its 22cm wide as in the sketchup file.
I havent found any good picture of how it is attached.
So I wonder if Sealing gasket will solve that problem or if I must make the hole bigger?
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11th May 2012, 07:43 AM   #2776
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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The 22 cm is correct. You have to round the edges of your cut with a router (or another suitable tool) for the grill to fit. Remember that the speaker+grill is going on the inside of the enclosure. They should be glued together with strong glue (e.g. two-component glue).

Take a look at Phaedras' boominator:
Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 11th May 2012, 07:49 AM   #2777
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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I was testing the AMP6 substitute, the MKII TA2024 amplifier, yesterday with some 8 ohm speakers connected. I'm pretty impressed with the output levels.

But I noticed that the chip got a little hot, even at very low volumes. I haven't had time for testing outside at max. volume for a longer period of time, but does the chip usually get really hot?

Is a heatsink needed? I mean... Afterall it's only 6 W in peaks at full volume with 8 ohm speakers.
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Old 11th May 2012, 08:52 AM   #2778
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
Is a heatsink needed? I mean... Afterall it's only 6 W in peaks at full volume with 8 ohm speakers.
Correction: 10 W in peaks at max. volume. in 8 ohm.
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Old 11th May 2012, 09:57 AM   #2779
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@Saturnus: That just goes to show how lost I am...

Anyhow, i thought of a new idea. Building a half boominator with the ability to connect the second channel to a bass cabinet so we can utilize our HP12Ws.

And if i understand it correctly (according to Speaker Box Enclosure Designer / Calculator) then the following is close to ideal measures for a sealed box(Double the size for two drivers off course) at QTC 1 (Or should it be 1.1)?

Click the image to open in full size.

Last edited by stewartstardust; 11th May 2012 at 10:01 AM.
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Old 11th May 2012, 10:22 AM   #2780
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
The 22 cm is correct. You have to round the edges of your cut with a router (or another suitable tool) for the grill to fit. Remember that the speaker+grill is going on the inside of the enclosure. They should be glued together with strong glue (e.g. two-component glue).
Thank you! Yep, I knew that. Just some painting to do now...
I've read that some take off the rubber from the grill and some let them be, so what is the best way?
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