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Old 11th April 2012, 09:56 PM   #2701
aaroe is offline aaroe  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bekutori View Post
I have been doing some more thinking about my halfinator.

I'm thinking 'bout making the halfinator in a standing design, with each HP-10W playing on different channels to get a decent stereoimage. I will though still make holes in the center bracing so that I can use one port for both speakers. Here are some non-detailed sketches I made in paint just to show how I'm thinking. There are currently two versions I'm thinking off.

1:
Click the image to open in full size.

2:
Click the image to open in full size.

Note that the right and left side will be identical, that will say 2x HP-10 in total etc. The back will not be identical to the front though, as there will be nothing there.

In the second version I'm thinking off using 2xHP-10 and 4xPiezo's. This is due that the low frequesies stays around the speaker, while the higher frequensies just travels straight away and will eventually get lost outdoors if you'r not standing in front of the piezo's. But if you sit in front of the port in the second version, I gues you will get:
* A decent stereoimage
* A decent soundimage, with both low and high frequensies.

Am I right?
Would you recommend any of theese two versions? Or would you go with another one?

I would be very pleased to hear your opinions.

All the best,
bekutori
What I'm hearing you describe is 2 speakers playing stereo, but in the same cabinet, right?
I'm no audio expert, but I'm pretty sure that this is listed as a "DON'T" in the Speaker building for dummies book - correct me if I'm wrong.

So if you insist on building a Halfinator, I think you should stick to one channel. But if I were you, I'd copy the original design, and make a true Boominator.

Happy building :-)
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Old 14th April 2012, 05:39 PM   #2702
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Hey guys!

So i've almost gathered all the parts required to build a full-blooded Boominator!

Im thinking of a mod that i havent been able to see when searching the thread.
It is a so:
Click the image to open in full size.
Im planning on putting switches on the positive wires going to the 2 speakers on one side of the boominator. This drawing is very crudely drawn (no piezos etc. drawn), so in reality these switched would be placed on the front panel where we have all the other inputs.
My question is - Is this even safe for the speakers/amp? And if it is, would a regular flip switch like this do?

And lastly - if the switches are connected to the positive wires of the speakers AND turned on (so that the speakers are activated), would it have a noticeable effect on the sound quality?
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Old 14th April 2012, 08:32 PM   #2703
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Originally Posted by Manatopain View Post
Hey guys!

So i've almost gathered all the parts required to build a full-blooded Boominator!

Im thinking of a mod that i havent been able to see when searching the thread.
I'm afraid you can't do that.
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Old 14th April 2012, 09:44 PM   #2704
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So, me and a friend are gonna try and build a standard boominator, sans solar cells (might be added later though). I'm thinking about LiFePO4-batteries vs SLA and found this reseller (click Shorai in the left pane) in Sweden for a MC LiFePO4 called Shorai. Do you think these prices are competetive, 919 kr for a 7Ah battery 483 g and 113 x 58 x 89 mm, considering shipping is free when ordering two or more batteries or a battery with charger? On a MC-forum someone mentioned Bohemian Racing as a ok and cheap supplier, but they seem to be US-based (?) and I guess shipping over the atlantic is expensive and/or slooow.

I find different numbers on what voltage the LiFEPO4-cells delivers, guess it depends if you measure when just charged or a medium over their usage. But the highest I saw (for a 4cell pack) was 14,34 V fully charged and no load. and from the 41hz webshop the amp6basic seems to handel up to 14.5 V DC so I guess no problem, right?

Still reading trough the thread for the second time, to get it all straight. My friend studies electronic engineering and design so she's responsible for that part, but since she has little time over from school I'm the one who collects all the info. I've already placed orders for 4 p.audio HP10W and 4 MPT-001 tweeters from PLUS-Elektronik.d, and a assembled amb6 basic from 41hzaudio. Both these places seemed to have some trouble with their PayPal-accounts, which seems a bit funny since I've been using PayPal for a couple of years and never ran into that with anyone else. But we're in contact via email so everything will sort out I guess.

When calling my closest wood supplier for Wisa Form Birch plywood they claimed that they only had 'Wisa Form' in stock. Which is strange since there is no thing called that, or rather there is eight things called that, depending how you look at it... and one of them is the 'Birch' one. I guess that everyone who works at a place can't be knowledgeable of everything they have.
Did I understand correctly that 9 ply would give best acoustics and Birch would be the lightest kind of 12 mm? So that if I step down in veneer layers from 9 ply I sacrifice sound quality, and if I get another kind of wood than birch I gain weight?

Also, add me to the list of people who would pay for a easy-to-follow construction manual...
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Old 14th April 2012, 09:54 PM   #2705
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how come is this?

I am not planning on switching the speakers on and off while the amp is turned on. And im guessing when the connection is not fulfilled between the speaker and the amp, the speaker will draw no power.
Please correct me if im wrong!
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Old 15th April 2012, 02:32 AM   #2706
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barbfa View Post
So, me and a friend are gonna try and build a standard boominator, sans solar cells (might be added later though). I'm thinking about LiFePO4-batteries vs SLA and found this reseller (click Shorai in the left pane) in Sweden for a MC LiFePO4 called Shorai. Do you think these prices are competetive, 919 kr for a 7Ah battery 483 g and 113 x 58 x 89 mm, considering shipping is free when ordering two or more batteries or a battery with charger? On a MC-forum someone mentioned Bohemian Racing as a ok and cheap supplier, but they seem to be US-based (?) and I guess shipping over the atlantic is expensive and/or slooow.
You can buy them directly from Shorai Europe
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Old 15th April 2012, 02:55 AM   #2707
gmarsh is offline gmarsh  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Manatopain View Post
how come is this?

I am not planning on switching the speakers on and off while the amp is turned on. And im guessing when the connection is not fulfilled between the speaker and the amp, the speaker will draw no power.
Please correct me if im wrong!
If you have two speakers sharing the same airspace, you have to drive them both. Otherwise the open speaker will act like a hole in the box.
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Old 15th April 2012, 07:16 AM   #2708
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Originally Posted by PressureFM View Post
You can buy them directly from Shorai Europe
Thanx, compared prices and the diff was a few crowns cheaper at the Swedish supplier so I guess they have more or less fixed prices. Haven't got an answer from Bohemian yet though..
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Old 15th April 2012, 11:09 AM   #2709
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Originally Posted by gmarsh View Post
If you have two speakers sharing the same airspace, you have to drive them both. Otherwise the open speaker will act like a hole in the box.
Ah okay, thank you!
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Old 15th April 2012, 12:56 PM   #2710
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Originally Posted by Manatopain View Post
Ah okay, thank you!
Of course. If you make the centerbrace without holes and have separate reflex ports on each side, it would be possible. I'd still not recommend it though.
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