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#2611 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
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#2612 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
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#2613 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Hi everyone, I'm new here. I'm also on the Dutch 'boominator' topic, called 'kistradio' topic. I'm building a boominator and I'm stuck with a few questions. But first, some pictures of the idea of my boominator. Disign picture 1, design picture 2, schematic. The schematic is in Dutch, so I don't think you'll understand most of it.. In my box, there's going to be one subwoofer (Visaton W170S) and two car-speakers (Blaupunkt GTx-542). It's all powered by a 12V battery and it can switch to power supply (12V). I'm also going to add two LED VU meters. Later on, I maybe add a Raspberry Pi to my speaker.
I've got one question about the speaker. I want to add a simple bass/treble controllers based on a NE5532 opamp. There are lots of schematics on the internet about bass/treble controllers, but since I've got only a 12V power supply, it's not simple to build a controller. I have already found a schematic which makes a symmetric power supply out of my battery, but the problem with this is that is can only give +/- 6V DC. Now I've found this schematic. The datasheet of the NE5532 says that the NE5532 works from 5 till ... V. Will this schematic work on a +/- 6V power supply? Since the opamps are parallel to the power supply, I think the opamps will get 6V, am I right? If you have any questions left, just ask them! |
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#2614 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kolding, Denmark
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#2615 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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#2616 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
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Why not? Its a case of 30 x 30 x 50 cm. I'm going to put wheels on it so I can take it with me to the beach. I don't understand why this is different from a boominator? It's only an advanced boominator.
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#2617 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
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This also gives a stronger construction, since the outside pressure on the box is often higher on the top/bottom then on the end pieces. |
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#2618 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
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#2619 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
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Hi. It's because it's not in line with the general design principle of the Boominator (or Halfnitor) which are based on a bipolar "monocoque" cabinet with professional drivers and highly efficient amplifiers to form a relatively cheap design while preserving very high sound quality levels (think very good home stereao or better sound quality) in a (semi-)portable design with extremely long battery life time (in some designs basically forever).
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#2620 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oulu
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Hi, I am a Boominator fan from Finland and I'm planning to build a kind of Boominator to be transported with bicycle trailer. My trailer is only 62 cm long so it would be necessary to shorten the Boominator box. I would also like to have some shape in it. But I don't want to mess up with good design so can you evaluate that how much my changes would affect to sound quality compared to basic Boominator design.
Picture of the trailer-idea and shape of the Boominator box: ![]() And picture of SketchUp-drawing of the box(only half of it): The volume of both chambers are same as in original design (aprox. 23 litres with everything). And elements will be attached to each other. I already have 4 pieces of HP-10w and 4x RILA SA38-piezos from Ljudia and AMP6-b. I just would like to hear your, especially Saturnus', opinion about my project. Is there any sense, or should I stay at original design and leave example the middle box out of it to make it shorter that way? |
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