Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Class D

Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 7th March 2012, 12:48 PM   #2611
aaroe is offline aaroe  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
aaroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedras View Post
You might wanna check out this build.. He made a giant VU meter..

The “Malen” Boombox « Popdevelop – A developer team from Malmö, Sweden
Yeah, I've seen that, but its seems way too complicated compared to my electronics skills :-) - but I've found a suitable solution that I think will be great - pictures will be posted ofcourse :-)
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th March 2012, 12:50 PM   #2612
aaroe is offline aaroe  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
aaroe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Aarhus, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by skipper87 View Post
Each 2 LEDs are connected to 12 V, so you will just have to put some more LEDs in series and use a smaller resistor. Make sure that that the forward voltage drops doesn't exceed the supply. If you want more LEDs, then just put them in parallel on each branch with the transistor.
Ahh, of course, I see that now :-) Thanks for opening my eyes ;-)
  Reply With Quote
Old 7th March 2012, 02:42 PM   #2613
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I'm also on the Dutch 'boominator' topic, called 'kistradio' topic. I'm building a boominator and I'm stuck with a few questions. But first, some pictures of the idea of my boominator. Disign picture 1, design picture 2, schematic. The schematic is in Dutch, so I don't think you'll understand most of it.. In my box, there's going to be one subwoofer (Visaton W170S) and two car-speakers (Blaupunkt GTx-542). It's all powered by a 12V battery and it can switch to power supply (12V). I'm also going to add two LED VU meters. Later on, I maybe add a Raspberry Pi to my speaker.

I've got one question about the speaker. I want to add a simple bass/treble controllers based on a NE5532 opamp. There are lots of schematics on the internet about bass/treble controllers, but since I've got only a 12V power supply, it's not simple to build a controller. I have already found a schematic which makes a symmetric power supply out of my battery, but the problem with this is that is can only give +/- 6V DC.

Now I've found this schematic. The datasheet of the NE5532 says that the NE5532 works from 5 till ... V. Will this schematic work on a +/- 6V power supply? Since the opamps are parallel to the power supply, I think the opamps will get 6V, am I right?

If you have any questions left, just ask them!
  Reply With Quote
Old 8th March 2012, 10:28 AM   #2614
diyAudio Member
 
Phaedras's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Kolding, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathieu93 View Post
Hi everyone, I'm new here. I'm also on the Dutch 'boominator' topic, called 'kistradio' topic. I'm building a boominator and I'm stuck with a few questions. But first, some pictures of the idea of my boominator. Disign picture 1, design picture 2, schematic. The schematic is in Dutch, so I don't think you'll understand most of it.. In my box, there's going to be one subwoofer (Visaton W170S) and two car-speakers (Blaupunkt GTx-542). It's all powered by a 12V battery and it can switch to power supply (12V). I'm also going to add two LED VU meters. Later on, I maybe add a Raspberry Pi to my speaker.

I've got one question about the speaker. I want to add a simple bass/treble controllers based on a NE5532 opamp. There are lots of schematics on the internet about bass/treble controllers, but since I've got only a 12V power supply, it's not simple to build a controller. I have already found a schematic which makes a symmetric power supply out of my battery, but the problem with this is that is can only give +/- 6V DC.

Now I've found this schematic. The datasheet of the NE5532 says that the NE5532 works from 5 till ... V. Will this schematic work on a +/- 6V power supply? Since the opamps are parallel to the power supply, I think the opamps will get 6V, am I right?

If you have any questions left, just ask them!
Your design has nothing to do in this thread, as its not even remotely similar to a boominator.. You should start your own thread or post somewhere else
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th March 2012, 09:56 AM   #2615
Excile is offline Excile  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
...
From 1st cut
2x 900x300mm (side baffles)
2x 900x276mm (top/bottom)
...
Why 2x900x276mm? They fit between the sides, so shouldn't it be 900 - 2x12 = 876mm?
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th March 2012, 01:55 PM   #2616
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedras View Post
Your design has nothing to do in this thread, as its not even remotely similar to a boominator.. You should start your own thread or post somewhere else
Why not? Its a case of 30 x 30 x 50 cm. I'm going to put wheels on it so I can take it with me to the beach. I don't understand why this is different from a boominator? It's only an advanced boominator.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th March 2012, 02:13 PM   #2617
diyAudio Member
 
Campino Morten's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post

From 1st cut
2x 900x300mm (side baffles)
2x 900x276mm (top/bottom)

From 2nd cut
4x 276x276mm (ends/centers)
1x 276x66mm (top spacer)

From 3rd cut
2x 276x393mm (center braces)
4x 276x92mm (port/handle pcs)
The ends are "inside" the top/bottom and the side baffles. As you can see from 2nd cut, the ends and centers are same size and are 300-2*12=276mm.
This also gives a stronger construction, since the outside pressure on the box is often higher on the top/bottom then on the end pieces.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th March 2012, 02:40 PM   #2618
Excile is offline Excile  Denmark
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Campino Morten View Post
The ends are "inside" the top/bottom and the side baffles. As you can see from 2nd cut, the ends and centers are same size and are 300-2*12=276mm.
This also gives a stronger construction, since the outside pressure on the box is often higher on the top/bottom then on the end pieces.
Ah, perfect. I compared alot with the sketch up drawing, where the ends are "outside" the top/bottom. That's the reason i got a little confused.
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th March 2012, 05:22 PM   #2619
diyAudio Member
 
Saturnus's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Copenhagen, Denmark
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathieu93 View Post
Why not? Its a case of 30 x 30 x 50 cm. I'm going to put wheels on it so I can take it with me to the beach. I don't understand why this is different from a boominator? It's only an advanced boominator.
Hi. It's because it's not in line with the general design principle of the Boominator (or Halfnitor) which are based on a bipolar "monocoque" cabinet with professional drivers and highly efficient amplifiers to form a relatively cheap design while preserving very high sound quality levels (think very good home stereao or better sound quality) in a (semi-)portable design with extremely long battery life time (in some designs basically forever).
  Reply With Quote
Old 9th March 2012, 08:50 PM   #2620
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Oulu
Question Trailer-Boominator

Hi, I am a Boominator fan from Finland and I'm planning to build a kind of Boominator to be transported with bicycle trailer. My trailer is only 62 cm long so it would be necessary to shorten the Boominator box. I would also like to have some shape in it. But I don't want to mess up with good design so can you evaluate that how much my changes would affect to sound quality compared to basic Boominator design.

Picture of the trailer-idea and shape of the Boominator box:
Click the image to open in full size.

And picture of SketchUp-drawing of the box(only half of it): Click the image to open in full size.

The volume of both chambers are same as in original design (aprox. 23 litres with everything). And elements will be attached to each other. I already have 4 pieces of HP-10w and 4x RILA SA38-piezos from Ljudia and AMP6-b.

I just would like to hear your, especially Saturnus', opinion about my project. Is there any sense, or should I stay at original design and leave example the middle box out of it to make it shorter that way?
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 12:32 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright ©1999-2014 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2