The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

It can be misleading. Try having a conversation with someone whilst standing next to it!!
Also...check how loud it is from a distance.

That would be my experience too. Loud without distortion doesn't sound very loud when not put in relation to something else. I've often experienced this. You're listen to something and it sound ok loud but not overly loud until you try to speak to someone and realize you have to scream directly into that persons' ear.
 
But one thing i cant figure out! how you are going to glue the Hp's in the middel, and do the final wirering with the top glued on ?

Oh, that's quite easy. It's the exact same way I did it too. You simply put the chemical metal on the back of the drivers on one side and apply the glue on one side. Then you just glue one side, facing down, and put the other side in without glue. Apply pressure and wait for the glue to set while removing any excess glue that runs down. Now you connect up wires. Do the final test that everything works as it should, and apply chemical metal and glue to the other side and glue that side in also facing down. The reason the side being glued should be facing down is that you avoid the glue runs inside the cabinet and down the sides so it's much easier to remove excess glue.
 
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The reason the side being glued should be facing down is that you avoid the glue runs inside the cabinet and down the sides so it's much easier to remove excess glue.

This is very timely as I'm ready to glue up a Aura NS6 mini.

I'm visualizing this as the drivers being glued are magnet up, cone down. Does this not present more risk that the glue flows onto the cone? On the first side I see that this would allow you to clean up any excess via the speaker hole if you have not glued in the other side drivers (or have an extra baffle due to a hole cutting incident - like I did).
 
Oh, that's quite easy. It's the exact same way I did it too. You simply put the chemical metal on the back of the drivers on one side and apply the glue on one side. Then you just glue one side, facing down, and put the other side in without glue. Apply pressure and wait for the glue to set while removing any excess glue that runs down. Now you connect up wires. Do the final test that everything works as it should, and apply chemical metal and glue to the other side and glue that side in also facing down. The reason the side being glued should be facing down is that you avoid the glue runs inside the cabinet and down the sides so it's much easier to remove excess glue.

That's more or less how I was planning to glue the woofers, indeed.
I also removed the sticker from the back side to improve bonding and put a small piece of tape over the vent hole, to prevent chemical metal of entering the vent hole.
 
I'd like to add a capacitor to my AMP6 to improve bass performance, which I've read Saturnus has done to his.

Question is, does it have to be EXACTLY the same?

I didn't have my AMP6 to check on when I ordered, so I chose this:

16V 105C KY Series Nippon Chemi-Con Low ESR (Long Life) Electrolytic Capacitors

(Copy and paste into an ebay search if you want to check them out).

And of course i chose a 16v 1500uF.

But now that I've had a better look at my AMP6, the capacitor is a KZE type.

Bottom line: Will my KY cap work, or do I have to order a KZE?

PS. I know hardly anything about capacitors, so I have no idea if this is a big deal or not.

Guess I'll try to ask again.. :)
 
Thanks a lot! Could you please elaborate a bit on what ESR is, and what how it affects the performance :)?

Equivalent series resistance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For the "power bank" capacitor it hardly matters though. It's the primary decoupling capacitor close to the chip for which it matter what ESR and resultant ESL it has. For the one near the power input the capacitance is the most important stat. 1000-2200uF is plenty.
 
Equivalent series resistance - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

For the "power bank" capacitor it hardly matters though. It's the primary decoupling capacitor close to the chip for which it matter what ESR and resultant ESL it has. For the one near the power input the capacitance is the most important stat. 1000-2200uF is plenty.

Alright, thanks a lot!

So the function is more for the capacitor to act like a power reserve for when the bass kicks in really hard or what?
 
Good Afternoon Folks, I am a total newb when it comes to electronics being the various components of sound engineering that I see being discussed here. That said. I've been reading enough success stories that I think, I'm ready to bite the bullet here, and take the plunge into building my first boominator.

That said, I've only got 1 question left before I make the plunge. Question: Is it fair for me to assume that the Boominator-Mini build would be the best starting point for a newbie like me? (i.e. price point, ease of build, availability of components, etc....)

Thanks in advance for any feedback.
 
Switching signal cable

About to finish my original boominator but im in need of some help.
I've got a bluetooth receiver that i wanna have connected to the amp6 but if i plug in my phone i want it to disconnect and have the phone connected instead.
What's the solution to this?

Links to products would be great!
 
PCFreak,
Glad Valborg!

I had the same question not long ago.
If you get a jack socket with a switch built in you can wire it so by inserting your jack the socket switches from bluetooth to aux.

Chassiekontakt 6,3 mm stereo > Kontakt | Kjell.com

Or a nicer one:
NRJ6HF-1-AU - Neutrik

Note these are 1/4 inch jacks which I prefer for their ruggedness but mini jack ones are available.
(Kjell part number 37-154) (note this has 5 poles instead of 6 for the ones above but apparently this will also work)

To help understand how it works go to the Neutrik link above and click on the circuit PDF on the right of the page.

Cheers
 
DeeJayOn3,

The mini is going to be a very fun and rewarding build.

A few notes though.
Compared to a generic boombox the mini is tricky in regards to finishing as its kind of built from the inside out. (Depending on the desired exterior finish)

On my last boombox I could build the box, sand, paint, etc. before installing the components. That said the mini will be worth the effort!

The Micro is an alternative- basically the Mini cut in half lengthways.

Its worth noting that it seems the tweeters are not available till late may? (See post from WesleyK).

Cheers