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Old 25th August 2011, 09:10 PM   #2271
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found these other piezo's online

TWEETERS SPEAKERS 6 PACK PIEZO PA DJ CLUB | eBay

can they be used ?

and are they better than the ones I asked about in my previous? (QLM-1005 - Ljudia - Multimedia Hemelektronik Karaoke PA anläggning DJ utrustning Ljus utrustning)
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Old 27th August 2011, 08:45 AM   #2272
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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The price for HP-10W at ljudia.se has also dropped from 435 SEK to 385 SEK
__________________
Wohoo...Boominator 2012
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Old 29th August 2011, 08:50 AM   #2273
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Default Questions about Glue and Sealant

Hi,
I am about to start my building process and i need to buy some glue and sealant for drivers, plywood and solar panels.

I found these :

For sealing the piezo on the back and for glueing solar panels.
Sanitet- & Byggesilicone 577 - Neutral, høj-elastisk, indeholder fungicid « Fugemasser: Dana Lim A/S

If it happens that the box is not well sealed
Acrylfugemasse 557 - All-round, overmalbar, til næsten alle materialer « Fugemasser: Dana Lim A/S

To glue all plywood together
Trælim D3 Ude 430 - Vandbestandig D3, allround til alt træ « Trælim: Dana Lim A/S

To glue the HP10W to the centerbrace
2.KOMPONENT POLY.SPARTEL 140ML - Best.nr. 2290

I am insterested to know if these are good choices or i need to buy something else. All parts i have found to be in stock at the danish shop Harald Nyborg.

I can't seem to understand where i see if these are acidbased so any help would be appreciated.

/donnib
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Old 29th August 2011, 10:01 AM   #2274
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Frankly, I'd not bother with 2 different types of sealants. The type 557 should work for both.

And I'd recommend chemical metal instead of 2-component sealer.

PLASTIC PADDING KEMISK METAL - Best.nr. 1139
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Old 29th August 2011, 10:15 AM   #2275
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
Frankly, I'd not bother with 2 different types of sealants. The type 557 should work for both.

And I'd recommend chemical metal instead of 2-component sealer.

PLASTIC PADDING KEMISK METAL - Best.nr. 1139
Thank you for that! If you have 5 min could you please have a look at this post i made some time ago since i am still unsure about how to make the port which i find very important : The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

/donnib
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Old 29th August 2011, 03:52 PM   #2276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donnib View Post
Thank you for that! If you have 5 min could you please have a look at this post i made some time ago since i am still unsure about how to make the port which i find very important : The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine

/donnib
Depends on which tools and carpeting skills you have.
The simple way to do it is to drill two 30mm holes with 90mm between them. Then you take a jigsaw and cut two lines at the top and at the bottom of the holes, so you end up with a hole as Saturnus described it. If you have a router then you can smooth out the edges.
Another way to do it is to make a template for the router and use that to make it precise. Or you can drill the holes and use two pieces of wood to guide the router in a straight line between them.
When I make my holes for the drivers, I'll be using a stationary cutter a bandsaw and a router to make perfect circle, but I also have the advantage of a complete carpentry workshop at my disposal. Except that we no longer have a CNC milling machine.
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Old 30th August 2011, 06:42 AM   #2277
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Campino Morten View Post
Depends on which tools and carpeting skills you have.
The simple way to do it is to drill two 30mm holes with 90mm between them. Then you take a jigsaw and cut two lines at the top and at the bottom of the holes, so you end up with a hole as Saturnus described it. If you have a router then you can smooth out the edges.
Another way to do it is to make a template for the router and use that to make it precise. Or you can drill the holes and use two pieces of wood to guide the router in a straight line between them.
When I make my holes for the drivers, I'll be using a stationary cutter a bandsaw and a router to make perfect circle, but I also have the advantage of a complete carpentry workshop at my disposal. Except that we no longer have a CNC milling machine.
Thanks, that makes sense. I do have a router but i don't know how to make the template since that one needs to be made in the same way so back to square one For the circles i have an special attachment for my Bosch Router so i can make nice round holes.

I do however have one more question.

How does everybody fix the HP10W to the wood ? I mean do you use screws from the inner compartment and out or from out to inside. I guess the best would be from inside to outside but then either you have to cut the screws that are sticking out or get screws that fit perfectly. I tried looking at others assembly pictures and people tend to do this different ways BUT which one is the best way ?
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Old 30th August 2011, 07:17 AM   #2278
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They're glued to the outer cab too so you don't that much in the way of extra fixing with screws. They're basically just there to make sure it doesn't slide around too much while the glue is hardening. Use the the same chemical metal as for fixing it to the center brace. And add after hardening add liberal amounts of sealant around the edge.
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Old 30th August 2011, 07:56 AM   #2279
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
They're glued to the outer cab too so you don't that much in the way of extra fixing with screws. They're basically just there to make sure it doesn't slide around too much while the glue is hardening. Use the the same chemical metal as for fixing it to the center brace. And add after hardening add liberal amounts of sealant around the edge.
If i understand this correct then i would need to glue the grill to the driver then the driver with the grill mounted to the cabinet from the inside. Would that really hold ? I mean when it will play and after a long time i would guess that the rubber sealing from the HP10W which the grill be glued to will eventually give and not hold no ?
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Old 30th August 2011, 08:37 AM   #2280
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Eventually yes but even the prototype is still fine after 7 years of use, so I would imagine the lifespan to be at least 20 years.
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