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Old 21st June 2011, 10:39 AM   #1891
donnib is offline donnib  Denmark
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
2.11 Any plywood with minimum 7 ply would be second choice, less than 7 ply should not be considered unless you're on a really tight budget or just simply can't get anything else. The absolute best while still being cost friendly is 9 ply birch plywood. If it matters, I also recommend the filmed version.
Forgot to ask. Can you recommend an place to find birch plywood in filmed version in DK ? Can one paint on top of the filmed plywood version ?
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Old 21st June 2011, 01:13 PM   #1892
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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You say that you also recommend the filmed one. I actually think that the only thing that I have been using in the past 3 stereos is the filmed version. It has a super smooth surface which is hard to draw on with a pencil unless you use some sandpapir on it first (and then it's still pretty hard :P). I guess that the wood fibres are sealed off though so that rain/moist won't affect it as much as the non filmed version. I need a confirmation on this

I looked at Phaedras pictures before and noticed that his wood was a lot lighter colored. I assume that this is the nonfilmed version. I could also imagine that this version would be a lot more absorbant to paint. Is this true?

The filmed version seems very, very, very rigid. Not like any other type of plywood I have been using. I have not been using the non-filmed version yet, but could be fun to try the difference - especially with drawing on it with a pencil. That has been a P.I.T.A. to do with the filmed one.

Anything you have any experience with?
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Old 21st June 2011, 02:11 PM   #1893
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Great thanks. I pressume you mean the edges should be made round with sandpaper or something simmilar right ?

Yeah, or router

Can you recommend another one ? The price was quite good on it.

Haven't found a good replacement yet.

Not sure what you mean. Are there two different compartments in the center ? I thought there was only one. So you recommend putting buttons in one of the venting holes which means covering it up. Is this what you mean ?

It's one compartment. But I was thinking the place of the switches/connector to be on the inside the venting. But you can block one of the top venting holes if needed, or one of the bottom. Or both, but if so then cross block it.

Cool, probably the speaker connectors are the best idea. Shouldn't the speaker connectors be sealed in a way ? If so with what ?

Probably not needed but a dash of non-corrosive silicone will do fine

So when you say 9 ply plywood it's actually 9mm birch plywood right ? If this is correct then it would mess up the cutting instructions before or i have to change them accordingly when using 9mm.

No, I mean 9 ply. That's 9 layers. We're talking only of 12mm plywood here but the number of ply (layers) and material vary.

Look for WISA FORM BIRCH for the filmed version. And WISA BIRCH PREMIUM for the unfilmed version.

Here's a danish supplier http://www.krydsfiner.dk/filmbelagt_glatglat.6
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Old 21st June 2011, 02:15 PM   #1894
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DAMN we missed the rounded edges What are the effects of not doing this?

We can still do it on the ports/handles, but we don't have an "overfræser", so is it worth the hard work grinding it down manually?
For the port the effect can be quite significant as it's tuned to very high wind velocity so rounding it will have an effect at high volumes. For the bracing holes, that's more religion than anything else. It could/should have an effect of improving midrange performance but if it really does is not something I've actually tested.
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Old 21st June 2011, 02:19 PM   #1895
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
You say that you also recommend the filmed one. I actually think that the only thing that I have been using in the past 3 stereos is the filmed version. It has a super smooth surface which is hard to draw on with a pencil unless you use some sandpapir on it first (and then it's still pretty hard :P). I guess that the wood fibres are sealed off though so that rain/moist won't affect it as much as the non filmed version. I need a confirmation on this

I looked at Phaedras pictures before and noticed that his wood was a lot lighter colored. I assume that this is the nonfilmed version. I could also imagine that this version would be a lot more absorbant to paint. Is this true?

The filmed version seems very, very, very rigid. Not like any other type of plywood I have been using. I have not been using the non-filmed version yet, but could be fun to try the difference - especially with drawing on it with a pencil. That has been a P.I.T.A. to do with the filmed one.

Anything you have any experience with?
I actually recommend the filmed WISA FORM BIRCH as the first choice. The reason is that it is especially made for maximum rigidity. Other plywood are not anywhere near as rigid in relation to it's thickness and number of ply. Filmed birch plywood is the best for this use. No doubt about that even if it is a PITA to work with.

Last edited by Saturnus; 21st June 2011 at 02:21 PM.
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Old 21st June 2011, 02:52 PM   #1896
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Should one be able to use a primer on only the cut surfaces? It seems that the filmed surface is pretty resistant to water. Or should one use sandpaper everywhere and use a primer afterwards?

In this sense... is it a good idea at all to use sandpaper on the film?
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Old 21st June 2011, 03:01 PM   #1897
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You can paint directly the filmed surface but it's far better to lightly sand it first. Use a primer that can bind solidly on the phenolic resin coating which basically means boat primer for glassfibre/carbonfibre boats. It's the only primer that is strong enough to last. Note that it's also pretty unhealthy stuff, so do it outside.

You can get extra strong boat primers that eliminates the need for sanding by instead chemically bonding with the coating resin on the plywood.

Last edited by Saturnus; 21st June 2011 at 03:05 PM.
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Old 21st June 2011, 03:59 PM   #1898
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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I guess you are talking about "hæftegrunder"?...like this one
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Old 21st June 2011, 05:52 PM   #1899
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I guess you are talking about "hæftegrunder"?...like this one
Absolutely not. That's no way near strong enough if you want it professionally done. You're looking at wood paint. You have to look at boat paint. It's expensive, it's enviromentally and health hazardous but it's the best.

Something like this: http://www.hempel.com/internet/hempelcomcopy3006.nsf/vALLBYDOCID2/57700AF7A0C6CE5EC12568E900462BDB/$file/PDS_45551.pdf
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Old 21st June 2011, 06:26 PM   #1900
Falken is offline Falken  Sweden
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Default Piezohorn

Hi!

Could this one be a replacement for Motorola / Horn bubble tweeters?

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http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=270-049
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