Thanks for the reply Saturnus. The halfinator is stereo tho yes? I assume this has drawbacks, eg two halfinators /= 1 boominator? I already have the two amps, maybe I should ask; what is the best way to wire up one mono halfinator, with a 2 channel amp. It seems the only way to get all the information (eg It seems hard to find simple info like 'Just wire the speakers as normal for the halfinator'is to read the entire 300+ page thread, so that's what I'm going to go do now
The halfinator is in stereo, yes! And theoretically it has drawbacks but if you hear the halfinator live running a stereo signal it's really compellingly loud - not as loud as the boominator of course but you get the idea.
I built a halfinator and was satisfied with the result - and I actually didn't build it absolutely correct. I would go for the stereo solution.
It was also previously mentioned that you could run both speakers in parallel on one channel and use a large resistor between the terminals of the other channel. However you will obviously lose the music from that channel. I can not vouch for this solution unfortunately.
Fousifop, if you want mono, run each pair (woofer + tweeter) of speakers off one channel of the amplifier, and tie left and right of the input together so they're feeding the same signal to both amp channels. You could also hook this channel summing up to a switch, so you could go back and forth between mono and stereo.
Thanks, I been reading through the thread, there are lots of pages to get through! I'm thinking I will just use 1 channel of each amp, unless I can get my hands on 4 ohm HP10Ws, otherwise by the sounds of it I will be down on dB. I made a quick animation of my plans so far, easier that trying to explain it. Each half will have one 7.2Ah battery and TA2020 amp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7tF1tEl14E Thoughts?
If you got a solar charger already you don't a mains charger (and it probably won't work either). You just need a regulated supply of about 15V. Connect it to the solar charger, so that the solar charger charges the batteries. Remember a blocking diode on the solar panels so they don't draw the power instead.
I use a 19V laptop power supply to feed the solar charger in my Boominator for home charging. I use a separate solar panel which plugs into a connector on the box, laptop adapter plugs in there instead of the panel. Pretty simple.
I've found that a lot of thrift shops will have a bin where they throw old wall adapters etc, and finding a $2 laptop power adapter or printer power adapter is pretty easy. IT departments also tend to be a good source for them.
Saturnus - keeping an eye on your mini Boominator development now. I love my full sized one but it's a bit unwieldy/heavy - we discovered that a golf cart is dangerous to drive with a Boominator strapped to the roof
I've found that a lot of thrift shops will have a bin where they throw old wall adapters etc, and finding a $2 laptop power adapter or printer power adapter is pretty easy. IT departments also tend to be a good source for them.
Saturnus - keeping an eye on your mini Boominator development now. I love my full sized one but it's a bit unwieldy/heavy - we discovered that a golf cart is dangerous to drive with a Boominator strapped to the roof
I've used:
Laptop adapter > Incandescent car bulb > diode > battery.
The car bulb is a current limiter that protects the laptop adapter (so that it doesn't shut off from overload). The diode prevents battery discharge when the cord is unplugged. Wow, super easy and convenient. With an 1156 bulb, it can charge a car battery, or with a little "glovebox" bulb, it can charge a drill battery. And a drill battery is useful for extended run time with a wide voltage range audio amplifier. That's also more than twice as powerful as the TA2020. The wide voltage range alternative amplifiers are also quite easy to use with solar panels, by simply not requiring a regulator.
Laptop adapter > Incandescent car bulb > diode > battery.
The car bulb is a current limiter that protects the laptop adapter (so that it doesn't shut off from overload). The diode prevents battery discharge when the cord is unplugged. Wow, super easy and convenient. With an 1156 bulb, it can charge a car battery, or with a little "glovebox" bulb, it can charge a drill battery. And a drill battery is useful for extended run time with a wide voltage range audio amplifier. That's also more than twice as powerful as the TA2020. The wide voltage range alternative amplifiers are also quite easy to use with solar panels, by simply not requiring a regulator.
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Whalebreath,
I have a switch arrangement for my boombox that would suit yours, I think. I have a dedicated charger as well as a regulated power supply, and a switch that changes between the two. I posted a circuit diagram and also a little sketch of the switch terminals as well on May 10, 2011--not sure what post number that is. In your case, I'd also add a switch to choose the charging method, mains or solar.
I have a switch arrangement for my boombox that would suit yours, I think. I have a dedicated charger as well as a regulated power supply, and a switch that changes between the two. I posted a circuit diagram and also a little sketch of the switch terminals as well on May 10, 2011--not sure what post number that is. In your case, I'd also add a switch to choose the charging method, mains or solar.
Edit: found answer at page 237
Yeah. The answer to any question is probably answered already somewhere in the thread
Hi.
I need more help regarding battery. Witch battery would you go for: I like to run 24v
and like as long playtime as possible. I've read some treads here about it, but don't know if Li-ion or LiFePo4 would give me most Ah.
I manage to fit 4 12v 7,2 Ah sla in original middel compartment, but couldent fit Mini DSP so i now use 3 sla. One for phone and mixer and two for Amp/ mini dsp.
I was thinking about to get two small 12v and two 7,2 v and paralell one small+ one big and then serie them. I hava been a bit stupid and left out woofer grill's and now regret it. Any good idea on how to fit some nice grill's? I don't like to screw on PA grill's on outside.
No i'm off to paint Signaturnus with Duratex.
I need more help regarding battery. Witch battery would you go for: I like to run 24v
and like as long playtime as possible. I've read some treads here about it, but don't know if Li-ion or LiFePo4 would give me most Ah.
I manage to fit 4 12v 7,2 Ah sla in original middel compartment, but couldent fit Mini DSP so i now use 3 sla. One for phone and mixer and two for Amp/ mini dsp.
I was thinking about to get two small 12v and two 7,2 v and paralell one small+ one big and then serie them. I hava been a bit stupid and left out woofer grill's and now regret it. Any good idea on how to fit some nice grill's? I don't like to screw on PA grill's on outside.
No i'm off to paint Signaturnus with Duratex.
I did record a small video to show. It is possible something has happend when tossing it around in the garage: http://sdrv.ms/Q6Lwwv
Reflex ports suck and blow.
They have to. They are being excited by the cone movement. You'll probably experience them as suck very near to the ports, and like blow some 10-15 centimeters away from the ports.
If they seem to start by sucking, then the phase is correct. The speakers cones are moving forwards at the same time.
I'd go with lithium packs for your build. 4 times the capacity in the same space, and a 50% lighter. For example, the "12V 18000mah" packs that are sold fairly cheap. They're actually 11.1V and 13200mah but that's marketing for you.
Regarding grills. I don't know, maybe make a steel bar grill?
They have to. They are being excited by the cone movement. You'll probably experience them as suck very near to the ports, and like blow some 10-15 centimeters away from the ports.
If they seem to start by sucking, then the phase is correct. The speakers cones are moving forwards at the same time.
I'd go with lithium packs for your build. 4 times the capacity in the same space, and a 50% lighter. For example, the "12V 18000mah" packs that are sold fairly cheap. They're actually 11.1V and 13200mah but that's marketing for you.
Regarding grills. I don't know, maybe make a steel bar grill?
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Thank you for many lessonsReflex ports suck and blow.
They have to. They are being excited by the cone movement. You'll probably experience them as suck very near to the ports, and like blow some 10-15 centimeters away from the ports.
If they seem to start by sucking, then the phase is correct. The speakers cones are moving forwards at the same time.
I'd go with lithium packs for your build. 4 times the capacity in the same space, and a 50% lighter. For example, the "12V 18000mah" packs that are sold fairly cheap. They're actually 11.1V and 13200mah but that's marketing for you.
Regarding grills. I don't know, maybe make a steel bar grill?
I just had not feldt this sucktion before.I will check upon those Li-ion pacs.
Is there a way for me to messure soundpressure that will give you any idea on how this build are playing? If you like to know i will try to arange it. Just tell me
Bjoern
Hi, this is my first post here.
First of all I would like to thank Saturnus and everybody else on this forum for all your dedication. It has been a true pleasure reading this thread.
I'm starting my own build next week:
4x Eminence BASSLITE s2010
4x QLM -1005
1x Lepai TA 2020A+ (might order a amp6 to use insted but I had this one laying around)
1x LFX18A1-BS12 ( For any swedish builders out there NF Racing has good prices on Shorai batterys and exellent service)
Will update on progress and results.
First of all I would like to thank Saturnus and everybody else on this forum for all your dedication. It has been a true pleasure reading this thread.
I'm starting my own build next week:
4x Eminence BASSLITE s2010
4x QLM -1005
1x Lepai TA 2020A+ (might order a amp6 to use insted but I had this one laying around)
1x LFX18A1-BS12 ( For any swedish builders out there NF Racing has good prices on Shorai batterys and exellent service)
Will update on progress and results.
Specifically for the Basslite version you might want to wait a little before you start construction as I'm redesigning the bracing to accommodate other drivers, especially neodynium drivers, for lighter version.
It's not a replacement design. But a design that makes using other drivers viable without too many sacrifices.
It's not a replacement design. But a design that makes using other drivers viable without too many sacrifices.