Alright, I'll remember to pop that into WinISD. I have a few more questions, if you want to answer.
1. What is the advantages of using an electronic filter for your subwoofers such as that used by Coffin Camp? Does it filter better than just a single coil?
2. I think I am going to use 4 ported cabinets with 100 liters each and a HP-12W like you recommended some other camp doing as a sub solution. Do you think this would work out, if I'd have my Boominator function as mid-range and tweeter?
3. So far I had just imaged placing the Boominator directly on top of my cabinets on some sort of wagon. Would this be optimal for the sound? Or should I instead be creative and make a total new wagon with some sort of satelite design? I can actually get some 8" P.audio SN-8MB dirt cheap, should I instead go for using those and some sort of tweeter to play mid and high frequencies instead of my Boominator?
Hi, I am planing to buy a couple of carbon resistors. What is the diffrent between a 0,5 W and a 0,25 W? Which is the one I should use?
Like theese two (big URL, leads to conrads):
CARBON RESISTOR 0,25 W 5% 120RSIZE 0207 | Kolytskiktsmotstånd 1/4 W Kolytskiktsmotstånd Motstånd Passiva komponenter Komponenter | Conrad Elektronik Norden AB
CARBON RESISTOR 0,5 W 5% 120RSIZE 0411 | Kolytskiktsmotstånd 1/2 W Kolytskiktsmotstånd Motstånd Passiva komponenter Komponenter | Conrad Elektronik Norden AB
Saturnus, I think I've read somewhere in this huge thread, that you recommend Plastic Padding (Kemisk Metal) PLASTIC PADDING KEMISK METAL - Best.nr. 1139
instead of ie. Araldite Extra Strong Carl Ras A/S - Araldit Extra strong
Do you have any justification for this? - I'm using it for gluing the speaker magnet to the center brace (metal to wood joint) - and im worried that Plastic Padding is not very suitable for wood...? Do I need to worry? Or will this Plastic Padding thing stick to anything?
instead of ie. Araldite Extra Strong Carl Ras A/S - Araldit Extra strong
Do you have any justification for this? - I'm using it for gluing the speaker magnet to the center brace (metal to wood joint) - and im worried that Plastic Padding is not very suitable for wood...? Do I need to worry? Or will this Plastic Padding thing stick to anything?
I am now almost done with my halfinator, I only need to connect the speakers to the amp. I am not sure how to do it? Is this http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/7118/koppling.png the right way to do it?
Thanks!
/nyfiken
Thanks!
/nyfiken
You can also find some other wiring diagrams here: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-248.html#post2816970
Under Schematics and wiring
I think so. I have the Motorola KSN1005A piezos (same as KSN1001A), and i'm bying both 33 and 47 ohm resistors, and choosing the best, if any difference at all
Saturnus recommended 33 or 47 ohm for these piezos in an earlier post:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/clas...b-ultimate-party-machine-243.html#post2810510
What do the cross lines mean? Is it just to connect the to each other and connect it to the amp?
What I meant was the holes for the electronics compartment...
I have a TA2024 based tripath amp from Sure Electronics, and I can't feel any heat from it at all, even after playing for several hours.
Does the AMP6 Basic produce a lot of heat? - or maybe the AMP9 Basic?
The amp9 does when on 24V. But no, the amp6 does get that hot at all. In fact, most of the time and for most uses you don't even have to mount a heatsink.
However, in use on a festival it can easily get very very hot inside the cabinet. Not because of the amp itself but because of the Sun shining on the boombox.
At those times it's very good to have ventilation holes to make sure there's enough cooling because as you probably know, chips have a thermal limited range, and cooling is measured in degrees over ambient temperature, so the higher the temperature the lower the thermal head room is.
Many builders have built the Boominator without the ventilation holes for the electronic compartment but it is still my recommendation to have them (otherwise I wouldn't have included them in the design obviously) if for nothing else then the sake of possible future upgrades.
However, in use on a festival it can easily get very very hot inside the cabinet. Not because of the amp itself but because of the Sun shining on the boombox.
At those times it's very good to have ventilation holes to make sure there's enough cooling because as you probably know, chips have a thermal limited range, and cooling is measured in degrees over ambient temperature, so the higher the temperature the lower the thermal head room is.
Many builders have built the Boominator without the ventilation holes for the electronic compartment but it is still my recommendation to have them (otherwise I wouldn't have included them in the design obviously) if for nothing else then the sake of possible future upgrades.
Thought I could inform those of you that is going to buy solarpanels at 24volt.eu
I have emailed 24volt.eu and the 12V, 10W solarpanel is out of stock and they have no replacement for it.
I have a question. A few pages back someone said that I needed MPPT Solar Charge Controller for 12.8V LiFePO4 battery pack for my 12.8V LiFePO4 batteries.
In the descrition it says that I need this to work properly Customize 12V Detection Circuit for all Genasun Solar Controller
So is this supposed to be there at all time with the cables that goes to my battery and panels?
I have emailed 24volt.eu and the 12V, 10W solarpanel is out of stock and they have no replacement for it.
I have a question. A few pages back someone said that I needed MPPT Solar Charge Controller for 12.8V LiFePO4 battery pack for my 12.8V LiFePO4 batteries.
In the descrition it says that I need this to work properly Customize 12V Detection Circuit for all Genasun Solar Controller
So is this supposed to be there at all time with the cables that goes to my battery and panels?
Hi Saturnus,
Am thinking about a boominator .. but in 12"! For a little more bass and volume
I have found the Fane Sovereign 12-200 which looks to be excellent in the box! Sensitivity (looking at their plots) is 99-100db per unit, Qts doesn't suffer too much at 0.44 and Xmax is a respectable 4.5mm
Is this a viable driver for my project?
Many thanks,
Am thinking about a boominator .. but in 12"! For a little more bass and volume
I have found the Fane Sovereign 12-200 which looks to be excellent in the box! Sensitivity (looking at their plots) is 99-100db per unit, Qts doesn't suffer too much at 0.44 and Xmax is a respectable 4.5mm
Is this a viable driver for my project?
Many thanks,
Forgot to mention, its £40 - and here's the link:
http://www.fane-acoustics.com/downloads/FANE_Sovereign_12200_Specs.pdf
http://www.fane-acoustics.com/downloads/FANE_Sovereign_12200_Specs.pdf
Hi Saturnus,
Am thinking about a boominator .. but in 12"! For a little more bass and volume
I have found the Fane Sovereign 12-200 which looks to be excellent in the box! Sensitivity (looking at their plots) is 99-100db per unit, Qts doesn't suffer too much at 0.44 and Xmax is a respectable 4.5mm
Is this a viable driver for my project?
Many thanks,
You will still have Vas=104.8 litres on that driver against the 55 litres on the HP-10W. That will makes a different size enclosure.
But frequency cutoff is stated to be at 4 kHz, so you could maybe be using the same piezos. Remains to be tested though. What's the price on those units and can you buy them in Europe (Denmark)?