The Boominator - another stab at the ultimate party machine - Page 11

Saturnus · 2nd June 2008, 03:07 PM

You guys are amazing at giving advice so I'll just add that I use 1 amp6basic in each Boominator ... the reason the picture on the first page has 2 in it is because I made 2 Boominators at the same time ... one for myself, and one for a friend who was willing to pay the price I asked.

I don't use a volume pot myself but have exhanged the input sensitivity to suit iPods headphone output. I'd recommend using the headphone output if you use an iPod since it actually has better sound quality than the line out through the dock station. Strange but true.

You don't strictly need the tweeters ... and if you do you should use them with a 150 Ohm series resistor to flatten the frequency response. Used that way, they will actually sound pretty good, especially considering they're piezos. DLT started carrying the tweeter in Denmark, btw. Here: http://www.dlt.dk/products/productin...MenuItemID=230

jchillerup · 2nd June 2008, 03:42 PM

Thanks, Saturnus. I haven't bought the speaker modules yet, so I'll just buy some tweeters from the same place, if I have enough money :-)

I assembled the AMP6 yesterday. Took me the good part of an afternoon, but it was well worth it after experiencing the result. It was all I'd hoped for and more!

So now I need a battery and charger (24Ah deep cycle, batterishoppen.dk), speakers (the german shop) and a tree case plus wheels -- and I'm running. I don't think I'll buy a potentiometer; they look too expensive and I can adjust the volume on the mp3 player.

It's going to be great!

v-bro · 2nd June 2008, 06:45 PM

Hi, good to have you back here Saturnus...

What you could do is take a three position double deck switch and connect a few resistors to give you three volume options.

Reason?

1:There might be that moment that other people (uneducated fools) want to play their music, than you can at least limit the volume to safe levels.

2:When there's noise audible when not playing loud you can limit it.

3:It's just like a stepped attenuator, only with less settings. So you have excellent sound quality, plus you can match a few resistors to be exactly the same value for the left and right channel. Even these alledged good quality ALPS pots have unequal volume on the lower volume positions, I talk from experience and always found this quite annoying.

4:It doesn't have to be a very expensive switch. (or at least good quality costs less with three positions than with 12 or 24 like many popular stepped attenuators)

I have not done this yet on my creation here:
http://41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOP...Terms=macaroni

But I will, only issue is making it waterproof....but I'll think of something....

jchillerup · 4th June 2008, 10:34 PM

So, I got my battery and charger now (and the festival starts in 25 days). The battery is currently charging, but for when it's assembled, would it then fry the amp to charge the battery with it connected (I'm guessing yes)?

The charger is 1A. For 24Ah, I'm guessing a full charge would take 24 hours, or are the rules different when the battery is charged?

Saturnus · 4th June 2008, 11:04 PM

No, the charger will not fry an amp6basic when connected but it might fry the charger if it's not built for constant loads.

Add 50% when calculating charge time as a rule of thumb. It depends on the individual charger and how deeply the battery was discharged but generally you take Ahbat x 1.5 / Aout. The deeper the discharge the more extra time is needed.

jchillerup · 5th June 2008, 07:20 AM

On the side of the battery it says:

Stand by use: 13.5V-13.8V
Cycle use: 14.4V-15V

Need I be wary of this? I mean, the amp can only take 14.5V as an ABSOLUTE MAX. So what do you suggest?

Saturnus · 5th June 2008, 10:32 AM

Absolute maximum rating is 16V, the 14.6 is a 10% safety margin plus diode drop. Don't worry about it.

jchillerup · 6th June 2008, 12:30 AM

... and so it worked. Saturnus had spoken.

I originally planned on doing a magnet-to-magnet construction, but I figured that was perhaps not possible because I had only two speakers, one for the left channel and one for the right. But is that true?

I guess I'll have to test it once I get the speakers. Can't wait. Testing the system right now, and it plays perfectly with the battery and a set of regular speakers!

Thank you guys! You have been an invaluable resource in the construction of this thing.

NED 209 · 7th June 2008, 01:19 AM

you could feed it a mono signal? some of those 3.5mm y splitters send a mono signal out the other side
*i think*

http://www.pccables.com/images/05004.jpg

jchillerup · 7th June 2008, 01:32 PM

Yeah, they spit out two mono signals. One for the left channel and one for the right. I don't want to go for mono, so I think I'll just skip the magnet-to-magnet idea until I can afford two additional speakers

Right now I'm just waiting for the speaker modules so I can put it all together. Can't wait!

2nd June 2008, 06:45 PM	#103
v-bro diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2006	Hi, good to have you back here Saturnus... What you could do is take a three position double deck switch and connect a few resistors to give you three volume options. Reason? 1:There might be that moment that other people (uneducated fools) want to play their music, than you can at least limit the volume to safe levels. 2:When there's noise audible when not playing loud you can limit it. 3:It's just like a stepped attenuator, only with less settings. So you have excellent sound quality, plus you can match a few resistors to be exactly the same value for the left and right channel. Even these alledged good quality ALPS pots have unequal volume on the lower volume positions, I talk from experience and always found this quite annoying. 4:It doesn't have to be a very expensive switch. (or at least good quality costs less with three positions than with 12 or 24 like many popular stepped attenuators) I have not done this yet on my creation here: http://41hz.com/Forums/topic.asp?TOP...Terms=macaroni But I will, only issue is making it waterproof....but I'll think of something.... __________________ Max. cone displacement can be several foot on any speaker!Too bad it can be done only once......

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2nd June 2008, 03:07 PM	#101
Saturnus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark	You guys are amazing at giving advice so I'll just add that I use 1 amp6basic in each Boominator ... the reason the picture on the first page has 2 in it is because I made 2 Boominators at the same time ... one for myself, and one for a friend who was willing to pay the price I asked. I don't use a volume pot myself but have exhanged the input sensitivity to suit iPods headphone output. I'd recommend using the headphone output if you use an iPod since it actually has better sound quality than the line out through the dock station. Strange but true. You don't strictly need the tweeters ... and if you do you should use them with a 150 Ohm series resistor to flatten the frequency response. Used that way, they will actually sound pretty good, especially considering they're piezos. DLT started carrying the tweeter in Denmark, btw. Here: http://www.dlt.dk/products/productin...MenuItemID=230

2nd June 2008, 03:42 PM	#102
jchillerup diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	Thanks, Saturnus. I haven't bought the speaker modules yet, so I'll just buy some tweeters from the same place, if I have enough money :-) I assembled the AMP6 yesterday. Took me the good part of an afternoon, but it was well worth it after experiencing the result. It was all I'd hoped for and more! So now I need a battery and charger (24Ah deep cycle, batterishoppen.dk), speakers (the german shop) and a tree case plus wheels -- and I'm running. I don't think I'll buy a potentiometer; they look too expensive and I can adjust the volume on the mp3 player. It's going to be great!

4th June 2008, 10:34 PM	#104
jchillerup diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	So, I got my battery and charger now (and the festival starts in 25 days). The battery is currently charging, but for when it's assembled, would it then fry the amp to charge the battery with it connected (I'm guessing yes)? The charger is 1A. For 24Ah, I'm guessing a full charge would take 24 hours, or are the rules different when the battery is charged?

4th June 2008, 11:04 PM	#105
Saturnus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark	No, the charger will not fry an amp6basic when connected but it might fry the charger if it's not built for constant loads. Add 50% when calculating charge time as a rule of thumb. It depends on the individual charger and how deeply the battery was discharged but generally you take Ahbat x 1.5 / Aout. The deeper the discharge the more extra time is needed.

5th June 2008, 07:20 AM	#106
jchillerup diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	On the side of the battery it says: Stand by use: 13.5V-13.8V Cycle use: 14.4V-15V Need I be wary of this? I mean, the amp can only take 14.5V as an ABSOLUTE MAX. So what do you suggest?

5th June 2008, 10:32 AM	#107
Saturnus diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Copenhagen, Denmark	Absolute maximum rating is 16V, the 14.6 is a 10% safety margin plus diode drop. Don't worry about it.

6th June 2008, 12:30 AM	#108
jchillerup diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	... and so it worked. Saturnus had spoken. I originally planned on doing a magnet-to-magnet construction, but I figured that was perhaps not possible because I had only two speakers, one for the left channel and one for the right. But is that true? I guess I'll have to test it once I get the speakers. Can't wait. Testing the system right now, and it plays perfectly with the battery and a set of regular speakers! Thank you guys! You have been an invaluable resource in the construction of this thing.

7th June 2008, 01:19 AM	#109
NED 209 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	you could feed it a mono signal? some of those 3.5mm y splitters send a mono signal out the other side i think http://www.pccables.com/images/05004.jpg

7th June 2008, 01:32 PM	#110
jchillerup diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2008	Yeah, they spit out two mono signals. One for the left channel and one for the right. I don't want to go for mono, so I think I'll just skip the magnet-to-magnet idea until I can afford two additional speakers Right now I'm just waiting for the speaker modules so I can put it all together. Can't wait!