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Class D Switching Power Amplifiers and Power D/A conversion

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Old 14th April 2011, 01:58 PM   #1071
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fskot View Post
Which crossovers do you guys recommend???
It doesn't need a cross-over. At max a series or parallel resistor on the piezos but I'll have to receive the new version be certain what value, if any, is needed.
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:01 PM   #1072
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Originally Posted by Nahaz View Post
Nice to see it summed up like that but will it be the correct proportions with the drivers changing size etc?
I read that the drivers came in a new size somewhere in the thread and that some people had to make adjustments to make them fit, or did I missunderstand?
No, that's correct. You'll have to either fit a masonite or plexiglass 3-4mm plate behind the driver cut-out and use standard sealing gaskets, or find a wide enough sealing gasket.
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:03 PM   #1073
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Originally Posted by Saturnus View Post
It doesn't need a cross-over. At max a series or parallel resistor on the piezos but I'll have to receive the new version be certain what value, if any, is needed.
thanks
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:08 PM   #1074
Nahaz is offline Nahaz  Sweden
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Im sorry for the 100 questions, but what are the sealing gasket for?
And I assume the reason for these 3-4mm plates are to compansate for a "shorter" driver design which makes the combined driver "width" (when attached magnet to magnet) too short to fit perfectly between the inner walls of the boominator?

If so, is that the easiest way to approach this new problem?
Wouldnt it be easier to adjust the size of the box to match the new driver design?
Or will that cause any other problems?
Because I wouldnt want to make more perfectly round holes than absolutely needed, its not that much fun to use a router (överhandsfräs).

Last edited by Nahaz; 14th April 2011 at 02:19 PM.
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:12 PM   #1075
Nahaz is offline Nahaz  Sweden
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I generally use "självhäftande tätningslist" to airseal when building speakers, is that what you mean by the sealing gasket? I cant seem to find a correct English translation to the product but Im sure you know what i mean.

This stuff:
http://www.ljudia.se/tillbehor-s8213...atning-p79723/

Last edited by Nahaz; 14th April 2011 at 02:14 PM.
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:20 PM   #1076
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Originally Posted by Nahaz View Post
Wouldnt it be easier to adjust the size of the box to match the new driver design?
Or will that cause any other problems?
I'm not going to redesign it. Live with it.

There's a way to avoid the entire problem though. Just avoid the magnet to magnet construction and glue the magnets directly on the center brace instead. You'll loose about 0.2-0.3dB in sensitivity but you don't have to match up a hole in the center brace perfectly with the magnets, and you retain all the other qualities.

EDIT: Actually, that was a very good idea. I'll implement it in the next version.

Last edited by Saturnus; 14th April 2011 at 02:48 PM.
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:29 PM   #1077
Nahaz is offline Nahaz  Sweden
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Fair enough.
One last question (atleast for now).
In case a drivers gets damaged for some reason, is there any way to replace it?
It seems like when everything is in place it would be close to impossible to replace a driver, or do you only use screws and no glue on some sides to allow future access to the drivers??
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:43 PM   #1078
Nahaz is offline Nahaz  Sweden
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That sounds easier, Ill use that approach when it comes to it I think, thanks for the quick replies, Ill add photos once the build starts (which will be after I manage to find some tweeters) and ofc you are welcome to get your free beers at the Black Carrot Camp.
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:47 PM   #1079
rubennn is offline rubennn  Denmark
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Also keep in mind (as far as I know) the TA2024 chip has the maximum output of 15 W in 4 ohm where as the TA2020 will have 20 W in 4 ohm. So the TA2020 amp will have higher output generally.

And if you're gonna change the design (as I intend to do) to be thinner (not as deep), then the internal volume should be the HP-10W depth twice. According to the datasheet i.e. 262,4 mm internal depth. This is 13,6 mm shorter compared to Saturnus original design (which is 27,6 mm).
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Old 14th April 2011, 02:52 PM   #1080
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Originally Posted by rubennn View Post
And if you're gonna change the design (as I intend to do) to be thinner (not as deep), then the internal volume should be the HP-10W depth twice. According to the datasheet i.e. 262,4 mm internal depth. This is 13,6 mm shorter compared to Saturnus original design (which is 27,6 mm).
That's why I just realized it's much easier all the way around to just glue the magnets on the center brace instead and avoid most of the mounting problems.

That's what I'd do. I would not ditch the center brace as I think it's vital to keep the box as solid as possible.

I'll make an updated sketchup drawing over the weekend.

Last edited by Saturnus; 14th April 2011 at 02:57 PM.
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