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#161 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Breda
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Quote:
Be my guest to prove your claim via ABX software or whatever. Regards, Jacco
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Inde Deus Abest |
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#162 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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Quote:
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Hear the real thing! |
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#163 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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Quote:
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Hear the real thing! |
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#164 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Breda
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Quote:
One of samples is a signal which has gone through an Audyn Cap Plus of 8.2 uF and the other one is the same set-up but with two 22 uF Panasonic elco's in series. 20 euro versus 0.68 euro and according to the claims this would give a tremendous difference in sound quality. If you provide some cymbals I can redo the experiment with that sample. 10 to 30 seconds of material is enough. Regards, Jacco
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#165 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Taiwan
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Quote:
By the way, here's someone else in the Netherlands http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html
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#166 | |
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diyAudio Moderator
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Quote:
A good test and a good subject - FOR ANOTHER THREAD - please.
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Take the Speaker Voltage Test! |
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#167 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Reston, Virginia (surburb of Wash, DC)
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I connected the Radio Shack capacitors with the writing face down (CFD). I played a few selections from the test suite. I then reversed the orientation of the caps with the writing face up (CFU) and repeated the test suite selections.
I found the test suite selections played CFD yielded a soft withdrawn sound. Withdrawn is to say the performances did not have the presence experienced when the orientation was reversed. It just sounds as if the volume had been turned down a notch. When CFU are tested, there is definitely more bass, thus the perception of greater presence than when CFU. To my ears the more relaxed presentation was less fatiguing than when face up. The perception of less presence can be adjusted somewhat by increasing the volume. So, yes, I hear a difference based on the orientation of these specific film capacitors. I would suspect that the same may be true of other film caps, but I have no plans to cinduct further test of cap orientation.
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Davet |
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#168 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Reston, Virginia (surburb of Wash, DC)
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To remove the cap, place your soldering iron on one lead at the junction of the lead and the printed circuit board (PCB). Then, use pliers or tweezers to pull the lead from the board. I would suggest trying to heat the connection from the capacitor side of the board using pressure on the the iron to try to insure the solder pad on PCB doesn't lift. The leads may be bent on the underside of the PCB. You may have to straighten this lead in order to remove the cap. Heat the connection and either straighten the lead or lift the cap. To connect the RS caps in parallel take the two caps with the writing facing up on both. Wrap the lead of one of the caps around the lead of the other. Solder this connection and trim the lead of the soldered cap. Leave the other lead for mounting on the PCB. Repeat for the other lead: wrap, solder, and trim. Repeat for the other two caps. Use the non trimmed leads to mount the parallel caps on the TA-10.1 PCB. The attached photo should help.
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Davet |
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#169 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Reston, Virginia (surburb of Wash, DC)
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Quote:
To remove the cap, place your soldering iron on one lead at the junction of the lead and the printed circuit board (PCB). Then, use pliers or tweezers to pull the lead from the board. I would suggest trying to heat the connection from the capacitor side of the board using pressure on the the iron to try to insure the solder pad on PCB doesn't lift. The leads may be bent on the underside of the PCB. You may have to straighten this lead in order to remove the cap. Heat the connection and either straighten the lead or lift the cap. To connect the RS caps in parallel take the two caps with the writing facing up on both. Wrap the lead of one of the caps around the lead of the other. Solder this connection and trim the lead of the soldered cap. Leave the other lead for mounting on the PCB. Repeat for the other lead: wrap, solder, and trim. Repeat for the other two caps. Use the non trimmed leads to mount the parallel caps on the TA-10.1 PCB. The attached photo should help.
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Davet |
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#170 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Reston, Virginia (surburb of Wash, DC)
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Quote:
As to the ABX Testing; Start an independent thread for this topic! There is obviously, interest in this topic, but it has become "static on the line" for this thread. TIA.
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Davet |
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