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#1 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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I drilled and tapped 32 holes in 8 heatsinks earlier today, and snapped the tap with just 2 holes to go
The tap is M3 size, and there's nothing protruding to grip 'n turn. Any ideas how I can get this tap out without damaging the thread?
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Norwich, UK
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If you have a drill press, try and drill it out. Thats about the only thing you can do.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Canandaigua, NY USA
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I hate it when that happens
If there is nothing protruding, you can either open up the material around the tap with a small burr in a hand grinder (MotoTool), or drill a larger hole in from the opposite side to grab it. My guess is neither of those solutions will do for you. There are shops with EDM equipment that will burn it out for you with no damage to the aluminum, but it may cost more than the heatsink is worth. People do that with really expensive stuff. Sometimes a person with a small arc welder can spot a piece of rod to the top of the tap to turn it out. There are also small tools available from machine shop suppliers that have two or three fingers that go down the flutes and allow you to turn it out, but if the tap is tight I question how successful that method will be. Sometimes tapping the top of the tap with a small flat punch and hammer will loosen it up (add some lube obviously), allowing the less damaging methods to have a chance at working. Finally, the classic method is to drill around it, remove the thing, then ream the hole to a larger size and press fit an aluminum plug in place, followed by redrilling and retapping. Whew!
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
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Quote:
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Brian |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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Ugly, but it works if there's a tiny bit still above the surface or if it's flush.
Use a nailset or a sharp punch. Use the punch and a small hammer to tap on the flutes to unscrew the tap. Patience. Just keep tapping on the broken tap, it will unscrew. Next time use a two flute tap. They're stronger and less likely to bind. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Racine, Wisconsin
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
You may try what chipco3434 is suggesting, although I never did it myself either. When I break the tap, I almost always make a new hole. More info here: Removing a broken tap!
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www.audiosector.com “Do something really well. See how much time it takes. It might be a product, a work of art, who knows? Then give it away cheaply, just because you feel that it should not cost so much, even if it took a lot of time and expensive materials to make it.” - JC |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: South Lanarkshire near Glasgow Scotland
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I broke a tap while trying to remove a broken stud from an alloy cylinder head on the car. As the taps are hardened you can not drill them out. I took it to a local firm who used a spark erosion machine to remove the broken bit. The process cut a cylindrical hole around the tap which was then removed, they said they did work for a local aero engine manufacturer and had removed many broken taps from various exotic materials
Stuart |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Damn I threw the flier away, was recent, RS components sell a broken tap remover kit thingy... Think its like taperd drillbits to prevent it getting stuck maybe call their help no?...
I would take Peter Daniel's word as fact. He is a metal master!!!! Thanks for teaching me how to cut aluminium on my tablesaw. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
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One way is to make the heatsink really hot, then very rapidly cool it off.
Aluminium has a thermal expansion ratio almost twice that of steel, but is much softer. The threaded hole in the heatsink is molded around the expanded tap end by heating and cooling the heatsink successively. A trick my dad tought me, i'm an ex tap-remover child slave. May terminate the anodising though, and not for cyl-heads.
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