Hi there everybody. Altough i'm a long time diy reader, this is my first thread.
I'm assembling a gainclone using a LM3886 chip based in this project:
http://www.chipamp.com/docs/lm3886-manual.pdf
BUT, today I assembled everyting using this power supply:
...and I had some problems.
fist of all, I had a humm noise witha 2 amps current, the I unplugged the input pin (number 10) and the hum stopped, the current also dropped to a few milliamps.
When I plugged the speaker, it simply "popped" and no sound was heard. So I checked the speaker and it was burned.
measuring the LM output, it has 34Vdc, witch is more than sufficient to burn a speaker.
So, I plugged only the V+ , V- and GND to the LM and still I had the same output voltage.
what is the problem? Maybe my power supply is with some problem?
Ok, I understand a bit of electronic, but it is my first chip amp.
I'm assembling a gainclone using a LM3886 chip based in this project:
http://www.chipamp.com/docs/lm3886-manual.pdf
BUT, today I assembled everyting using this power supply:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
...and I had some problems.
fist of all, I had a humm noise witha 2 amps current, the I unplugged the input pin (number 10) and the hum stopped, the current also dropped to a few milliamps.
When I plugged the speaker, it simply "popped" and no sound was heard. So I checked the speaker and it was burned.
measuring the LM output, it has 34Vdc, witch is more than sufficient to burn a speaker.
So, I plugged only the V+ , V- and GND to the LM and still I had the same output voltage.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
what is the problem? Maybe my power supply is with some problem?
Ok, I understand a bit of electronic, but it is my first chip amp.
you most definetly had rail voltage at the outputs I would check for shorts in th NFB loop ect.......
my bad, I uploaded the wrong schematic for power supply. this is the one that I'm using:
(paintbrush edition)
the power supply output looks good, black tip on ground makes +34 and -34
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
(paintbrush edition)
the power supply output looks good, black tip on ground makes +34 and -34
Halo: the diagram of the circuit you can find at
http://www.chipamp.com/docs/lm3886-manual.pdf
http://www.chipamp.com/docs/lm3886-manual.pdf
Hi,
have you tried referring to Brian Bell? He's the one you bought from and there are a couple of known problems with the chipamp.com boards regarding their non-ruggedness with different power supply wirings.
The problem is not the board. The problem is Brian's bad (as in: incomplete) manual.
As you have already built everything, your best bet probably would be to take some high-res pictures, upload them somewhere and link them here. Try to do some snapshots of both sides of the amp board and a detail of your power supply wiring.
If your PSU really delivers +/-34V, the supply side looks good, though.
Hope this helps,
Sebastian.
have you tried referring to Brian Bell? He's the one you bought from and there are a couple of known problems with the chipamp.com boards regarding their non-ruggedness with different power supply wirings.
The problem is not the board. The problem is Brian's bad (as in: incomplete) manual.
As you have already built everything, your best bet probably would be to take some high-res pictures, upload them somewhere and link them here. Try to do some snapshots of both sides of the amp board and a detail of your power supply wiring.
If your PSU really delivers +/-34V, the supply side looks good, though.
Hope this helps,
Sebastian.
Well, I'll try to describe step by step.
This is my transformer, removed from an old receiver...
...plugged into a rectifier bridge. The black (-) and red (+) goes to the..
...filter board. there is a 12v bus, but this one is ok. It will be only for lighting.
Is the output ok? I think so...
Wiring the power output to the LM3886
and soldering into the LM, but only the power supply directly into pins 1 (V+), 4 (V-) and 7 (0V)
And now measuring the speaker output (pin 3) withr pin 7 (GND) and we got 32volts DC and 71 vac!!!
General view from the mess. the voltimeter and the amperimeter are online!
before you can ask, I did try this procedure with another chip and I got the same result. Monday I'll try to put this in the osciloscope.
This is my transformer, removed from an old receiver...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
...plugged into a rectifier bridge. The black (-) and red (+) goes to the..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
...filter board. there is a 12v bus, but this one is ok. It will be only for lighting.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Is the output ok? I think so...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Wiring the power output to the LM3886
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
and soldering into the LM, but only the power supply directly into pins 1 (V+), 4 (V-) and 7 (0V)
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
And now measuring the speaker output (pin 3) withr pin 7 (GND) and we got 32volts DC and 71 vac!!!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
General view from the mess. the voltimeter and the amperimeter are online!
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
before you can ask, I did try this procedure with another chip and I got the same result. Monday I'll try to put this in the osciloscope.
I dont know if it would have anything to do with your problem, but pins 1 AND 5 are supposed to be +ve (aka VCC+?) for the LM3886.
You should also have power supply decoupling at the chips pins, 100nF followed by an electrolytic (I used 100uF) between the rails and ground seems to be recommended.
You should also have power supply decoupling at the chips pins, 100nF followed by an electrolytic (I used 100uF) between the rails and ground seems to be recommended.
I would like to thank all of you for your tips, it was really really helpful.
I just made this baby works. I had to change a few resistors and capacitors, but still there is one odd thing: if I unplug it from the sound source (i.e. cd player) you can hear a noise, something like when you plug a guitar in the amp, that bzzzz, you know? but I'm still working on that...
I just made this baby works. I had to change a few resistors and capacitors, but still there is one odd thing: if I unplug it from the sound source (i.e. cd player) you can hear a noise, something like when you plug a guitar in the amp, that bzzzz, you know? but I'm still working on that...
I'm not sure if I have this right, but the negative side diode bridge shown in the first schematic (as pointed out by neutron7) is still drawn this way in the schematic available on the chipamp.com website as of 1/12.
In my opinon, for other novice builders like myself, errors like this are yet another reason why learning about circuits and electricity are important before putting parts together.
In my opinon, for other novice builders like myself, errors like this are yet another reason why learning about circuits and electricity are important before putting parts together.
Usually there are a capacitor 2,2 nF or smaller and a resistor 100 k or bigger from input to ground to suppress such noises. The resistor is only useful, if you have an AC-coupled amp and no other resistor or potentiometer is present on the source's side of the coupling cap.
Of course it is good practice not to plug sources to or unplug sources from an active amplifier, because even the cap and resistor have their limits.
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