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#21 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Rock Ridge
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Quote:
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Twisted Pear Audio |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Vancouver, B.C.
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Make Rf a fixed resistor set for a reasonable gain (maybe 20) and just set up a pot as a voltage divider on the input (often called a "passive preamp") Ipod's signal to one end of the pot, ground on the other, and input of the opamp from the wiper. You can turn it all the way to 0, no problem. Full volume will be whatever level the ipod's control is set to.As for opamps, the 741 is old and slow and probably making your amp sound much worse than it actually is. I would probably just leave it off, since the Ipod should have enough current capability to properly drive the 3886 directly. Even if it is a bit weak, it'll probably distort less than a 741. -Nick |
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#23 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Vancouver, B.C.
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With the transformer I'm using at home rated 600VA w/ 2x25VAC secondaries I get 40VDC Based on that It seems to me that a 28V would put me over the 84V rating. -Nick |
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#24 | |
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Account disabled at member's request
Join Date: Mar 2007
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30 vac = 42 vdc. |
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#25 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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there's something odd here. 40Vdc implies about 15% regulation, about three times worse than one would expect from a 600VA transformer. I would expect 28Vac to give 40.8Vdc on open circuit with one rectifier and about 40Vdc with twin rectifiers. Once the amp is coupled and drawing quiescent current, both these voltages will drop a bit. When the mains is above nominal supply voltage these voltages will rise, but hopefully not too much and not for too long. When you measure the transformer AC voltage and DC voltages what is the corresponding mains voltage? |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Do not forget there is a forward voltage drop over the chip itself...
You will need big heatsinks though. |
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#27 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: North Vancouver, B.C.
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Quote:
I would probably suggest ~20V secondaries assuming you're not aiming for maximum power. I ran my old amp from 18V into some 8ohm speakers and it had plenty of power. At 20V it'll be a little happier with difficult speakers. If you're aiming for max power, go for it, but remember that you're stuck with 8 ohm loads. -Nick |
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#28 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2010
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If you want to use only the knob on the unit to control loudness, you could simply gain the amp for the maximum and use a potentiometer or step attenuator for the input signal and leave the gain alone.
This way you could achieve the total range of loudness with the smaller heatsink. |
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#29 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Midwest U.S.A.
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My stereo 3886 does not oscillate but required 300 square inches without a fan to cool running on ±32 volts under heavy drive.
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What the other guy said----Standing on the shoulders of giants. New avatar- no more little array
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Fanling
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Stumbled on this thread. I saw some pre-build diy use chassis as heat sink. Is this sufficient?
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