problems with subwoofer amp!

[hernanstafe]

As some of you know i'm building a subwoofer and i was going to use a bridged tda2030a amp to power it. I bought a 10" sub recently and it comes to be that i don't have near enough power to make it work properly. That amp delivers about 34W max and i need like 100W. I've been searching the forum for a 100W amp and i found some but they don't have the pcb designed, only the schematic. I'd like to know if someone has the schematics AND THE PCB for a 100 - 150 W amp, with good quality sound.


PD: I'm not sure if i should use an AB or D class amp either, HELP!!



Thanks everyone!

[LightwaveDude]

One amp I think could work well in your application is the Amp5 kit. http://www.41hz.com/main.aspx?pageID=120 While I no personal experience with this kit (or any 41hz.com kits), I've heard many good reviews about them.

[v-bro]

Where will you use it? I use AMP9 in my car (2x200W at 2 ohms when parallelled! Or 1x 400W at 1 ohms?)

I don't know AMP5, but read a lot of good things about it....

For subs class D (T) is excellent, can't get better control and power for the money...

[mateo88]

Buy a kit from chipamp.com. If you have a 4 ohm sub woofer, you can parallel two chips to get 100 watts.

I have no idea how to help you if it's for a car, though.

[hernanstafe]

hey guys thanks for the replies. It's not for a car it's for home use, and i can't buy one of those kits, i'm from Argentina, sending it here would be ridicously expensive. I need the schematics and pcb to actually BUILD it. The speaker is 4 ohm by the way!!

[Minion]

Well if you want to actually build it then Take the Schematic and use a PCB design program and design your own PCB and then you have your own PCB.....

If you can read a schematic you can design a PCB and most Chips amps are very simple so there shouldn"t be a Problem makeing your own...

Ive done it......

[FastEddy]

I just finished a very nice sounding sub using an NX-150 power amp module from aussieamplifiers.com (a ready made module = just add DC power and a chassis), installed in a stand alone box ... connected it to a sealed 3.1 cubic foot enclosure with a 12" Pyle Driver (8 ohms, nominal) as used in car systems. I like having an automotive type bass woofer as they last a long time in home stereo environment, have nice tight, heavy duty frames and thicker, yet more flexable diaphram mounting and a large coil & huge magnet = play it load and it still lasts and lasts.

I had to "pad down" the gain on the Aussie Amp somewhat to get it into balance with the rest of the system (@ 150 watts the sound pressure level is enough to rattle the windows) . The sub rolls off around 5 Htz and I set the active low pass on the pre-amp to 150 Hz = no internal passive crossover in the sub = simple, I think it sound great and so does my wife.

You could build your own chip amp from kit or from scratch from a circuit diagram and up ... but I prefer amp modules as the time consumed on the bench is seldom equal to the level of improved quality from a good sounding module, chip amp, power MOSFet amp, tube amp or whatever = the module makers are doing some really high tech, high quality work that is seldom beatable with a soldering iron ... IMOP

[mateo88]

http://audiosector.com/lm4780.shtml