gainclone vs. symasym amp

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hi

what would you think about a comparison between the gainclone and the so-called "symasym" amp ?
which one would sound better and which one would cost less in production ?

http://www.stereo.holgerbarske.com/
here's a link to the symasym amp. i saw it first in the new "kang+ton" magazine. the also said that it would cost around 100€ each monoblock and it would do a great sound @ 60-100 watts (8/4 ohms).

someone knows this amp ?
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i also have a question @ the gainclone amp:

http://dogbreath.de/Chipamps/GainCardCopy/GainCardCopy.html
this is a website of a german guy who built a "free air connected" version of the gainclone. (i dont know the correct word for this but look at the photos and u'll understand what i mean)
does someone in this forum ever made such a creation ? does it sound good ?

and maybe can someone post a part-list of the whole parts u need for the gainclone ? (maybe inkl. snubber and power supply)
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thx everyone :D and sorry for my crap english ;)
 
For the gainclone topic;

The German guy says,

- "The separate star grounds. The signal ground is on the minus pole of the RCA connector (lower arrow). The second legs of the Cs caps are connected using a thick copper wire. In the middle of this wire, the power star ground is placed (upper arrow). Here the two ground wires from the PSU (the separate + and - grounds) and the speaker return arrive.
The two star grounds are connected by a thin and relatively long copper wire in order to lift the signal ground by a small amount.
This grounding scheme is done independently for both channels. ."

I cannot understand that. There are two gainclone independent. From the PSU there independent GNDs come to each GC board. Then they go another point seperated. Same time signal ground goes an another point seperated. Then they get connected via a thin and long cable. This procedure runs for every channels independent. And finally they comes together in enclosures chasis with mains earth....

Ouch.. They're too complex for me! If i make like that;

One ground comes from the power supply board to power star point,
One power ground (not connected to signal gnd on PCB) comes from each GC board to power star point,
One signal gnd comes from the source to signal star point,
One signal gnd comes from each GC board to signal star point.

Then signal star point connects to power star point via a 10ohm resistor, after all via two (reversed to eachother and in parallel) diode and a 100nF cap (in parallel) the power ground star point connects to mains earth (this earth point is directly connected to enclosures chasis...)

What happens?
 
right decision!

Hello,

I Think you'll be fine with that setup.

The LMs are really easy to start. If you like you can have my board layout, wich I posted on "hifi-forum". A little practise in etching boards comes in handy for the symasym.

I will start my own symasym (has been planned long before the K+T-article) these days now. But still, the symasym is far more expensive than a gainclone. One MJL for 6.20 Euros, means I could buy 5 Gainclone-Chips for the price of 4 outputtransistors for the symasym.

BTW if you are taking more Quality Parts on the Board the symasym is way more expensive than stated in the Article in K+T (i.e. they buy their Trannys bei "reichelt" and use the BC-types. I had very bad experiences with their power-transistors, in my first discrete designs.)


Good Luck!

Black
 
hi

another really simple question :D

how much watts should have my soldering station ?
at the moment i have a single 15 watts soldering-stick.

i could buy a 10 watts station with a regulator for 100°-400° temp for 40 €.

is that quite enough or do i need more watts ?
 
definately more!

Hello

I do have a second soldering Iron, ERSA 25W, but I do only use it for really small components on PCB, soldering a mains Fuse/plug or something else that big is impossible.

I also do have another 80W unregulated for these jobs, to be honest I only use the big one...

BTW more power is a plus, many parts can stand high temperature only for short time-period. The more power you have to heat your Part (R, C, IC) the faster your soldering is done and its less harmful for your component.

Greets
Black
 
thx

ill buy a normal circuit board which is unconnected at the back. is the cheapest method.

i think a good soldered self made circuit board with isolated wires at the back side as connection of the electronic parts will work as good as such a "professional" made circuid board.

frage, darf man hier auch auf deutsch schreiben ? :D
 
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