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#2371 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Rio de Janeiro,Brasil
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Quote:
I still have the 1500usd MIT shogun speaker cables they replaced. However..... using it in free air is ok but will usually get tangled up with itself.The cheapest solution is to get a small/medium sized spiral type cable protector you see in offices etc and wrap the enamelled wire on the outside around it one length clockwise the other anti clockwise starting/clamping from the middle.A more expensive solution would be teflon tubing of course . I prefer to terminate in spades because 1) the copper oxidizes quickly and 2)it is very fragile and will break after you tighten it in the speaker terminals a couple of times. The whole thing may cost something like 15-20 USD depending mainly on the cost of the spades. Cheaper than the cheapest ratshack speaker wire probably.
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``The author always assumes that when power is applied , the amplifier will explode or ,at the very least, catch fire.´´ Morgan Jones, Building Valve Amplifiers. |
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#2372 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Glasgow, Scotland
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The spiral is a good idea... I might just have some of that in a cupboard somewhere...
Thanks Blair |
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#2373 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riga, Latvia
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Can someone explain, how convert gauge to mm? I now CAT5 is 0.1 mm. How much mm is 12 gauge, for example ? Eny formula ?
Zigis. |
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#2374 |
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diyAudio Member
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cat 5 cable is 4 twisted pairs - each strand is 0.5mm of copper ( + insulation )
for American wire gauges see http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge UK wire gauges are slightly different - but not much You will have to find out which system you use in Latvia cheers mike |
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#2375 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Riga, Latvia
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Thanks, mike, for a link.
This table is what I am looking for. Yes, my mistake, cat 5 is 0.5 mm. We here use mm diameter and sometimes area mm>2. Zigis |
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#2376 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I share your experiences after listening to Peter premium kit for 1 month. It is still getting better by the day and is very sensitive to cable changes. I also wished to thank Peter for helpng with the built process and solving the turn on thumb. keep up the good work and for introducing me to the world of DIY audio. KP |
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#2377 |
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diyAudio Member
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Has anyone tried air cored coaxial cables used in large cable TV networks ? There is a spacer every few cm but it's mostly air and the center core is generally designed for RF use with some being copper coated iron but you do have copper cores also . If the copper core is available then it's worth trying. You may need two lengths to carry the signal and just use the shields as a shield and not carry signal.
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AM |
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#2378 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
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Brian |
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#2379 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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The cellular insulator in a coax is an attempt to approach some of the advantages of air core and the lack of significant dielectric mass between the core and shield.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#2380 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi Andrew, I wasn't talking about cellular ( foamed) insulation, I was talking about real air core. They have spacers to keep the core at the center . Between spacers the core is free standing.
I'll try to find a picture of that . It's been there for a long time. It's available here in the local market. It needs a large bending radius to keep the section from collapsing. Edit : Here is one of them. The spacer runs linearly all through. I thought I saw one cable with spaced discs at intervals. I could be wrong. If I find that I'll post another picture. But this one is pretty much 'mostly' air spaced.
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AM |
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