Too busy enjoying the sound of ( almost ) real music to think about killing you !
did you check out the link with my anticable mod - for me, it help quite a bit. ( perhaps my modded anticables are better than ur new find ...
)
but I look forward to hearing your latest discovery ..
cheers
mike
did you check out the link with my anticable mod - for me, it help quite a bit. ( perhaps my modded anticables are better than ur new find ...
)but I look forward to hearing your latest discovery ..
cheers
mike
Will you slow down NUUK. I have just tried out the mag wire "anti-cable" Cant even get it burnt in and you are giving me even more options.
Initial impressions of the Mag are certainly good. I replaced a bi wire line of Cabletalk3 and Monster godnoswhat that had sounded good on my Electra amp but not too great on the "clone". I cant make my mind up on the bass it is detailed, but not sure whether it goes as low.
The balance is way better, but then I expected having identical runs to the tweeter and woofers would do that. I still have some experimenting to do. I had considered twisting the pairs of mag wire together, as much as anything to make things neat. Should I?
Blair
Initial impressions of the Mag are certainly good. I replaced a bi wire line of Cabletalk3 and Monster godnoswhat that had sounded good on my Electra amp but not too great on the "clone". I cant make my mind up on the bass it is detailed, but not sure whether it goes as low.
The balance is way better, but then I expected having identical runs to the tweeter and woofers would do that. I still have some experimenting to do. I had considered twisting the pairs of mag wire together, as much as anything to make things neat. Should I?
Blair
Re: DIY
I like enamelled copper too.I am using .7mm as the best compromise between treble and bass response.
I still have the 1500usd MIT shogun speaker cables they replaced.
However.....
using it in free air is ok but will usually get tangled up with itself.The cheapest solution is to get a small/medium sized spiral type cable protector you see in offices etc and wrap the enamelled wire on the outside around it one length clockwise the other anti clockwise starting/clamping from the middle.A more expensive solution would be teflon tubing of course .
I prefer to terminate in spades because 1) the copper oxidizes quickly and 2)it is very fragile and will break after you tighten it in the speaker terminals a couple of times.
The whole thing may cost something like 15-20 USD depending mainly on the cost of the spades.
Cheaper than the cheapest ratshack speaker wire probably.
mikelm said:
I like enamelled copper too.I am using .7mm as the best compromise between treble and bass response.
I still have the 1500usd MIT shogun speaker cables they replaced.
However.....
using it in free air is ok but will usually get tangled up with itself.The cheapest solution is to get a small/medium sized spiral type cable protector you see in offices etc and wrap the enamelled wire on the outside around it one length clockwise the other anti clockwise starting/clamping from the middle.A more expensive solution would be teflon tubing of course .
I prefer to terminate in spades because 1) the copper oxidizes quickly and 2)it is very fragile and will break after you tighten it in the speaker terminals a couple of times.
The whole thing may cost something like 15-20 USD depending mainly on the cost of the spades.
Cheaper than the cheapest ratshack speaker wire probably.
cat 5 cable is 4 twisted pairs - each strand is 0.5mm of copper ( + insulation )
for American wire gauges see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
UK wire gauges are slightly different - but not much
You will have to find out which system you use in Latvia
cheers
mike
for American wire gauges see
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge
UK wire gauges are slightly different - but not much
You will have to find out which system you use in Latvia
cheers
mike
Re: GC kit listening experience
Hi ,
I share your experiences after listening to Peter premium kit for 1 month. It is still getting better by the day and is very sensitive to cable changes.
I also wished to thank Peter for helpng with the built process and solving the turn on thumb.
keep up the good work and for introducing me to the world of DIY audio.
KP
Szabcsi said:Hi Peter and all Gainclone builders,
I would like to share with you my experience concerning the Gainclone I have built.
I have been using a nice SET amplifier (home grown) for about 7 years, the sound of which was pretty nice to me. Not very long ago I even had the chance to A/B test it with a quite expensive although not triode amp (Audio Note P2SE, approx. 3000 USD retail I believe). After a week of listening I definitely felt that there is quite a difference, the advantage in most areas (dynamics and especially information content) being on my amp's side. Nevertheless, I heard so much about the Gaincard so I went to a local dealer and listened to it. It was quite impressive, although I was listening to horns this time. (At home I use large Audio Note speakers which sound beautiful for me). So I decided I would buy a kit (premium) from Peter and build it, maybe just for fun.
KI finished building the kit about a month ago. When I tried it first I was actually shocked. It turned out that the SET amp is "using"
The last thing I would like to add is that for more that 13 years this was what I have been searching for. In 1992 I was at a HighEnd show and listened to a full Audio Note chain, including the famous Ongaku and other extremely expensive stuff. Then I absolutely felt that there was no device at all, only music. However, because the total price of that suff was well over 100 000 USD, I thought I would never be able to come close to that. It seems that this tiny little amp helped a lot in that.
Sorry for the long post. I know it is not usual to write so long but I had to tell you what I experienced.
Szabolcs
PS. Thanks Peter for the kit!
Hi ,
I share your experiences after listening to Peter premium kit for 1 month. It is still getting better by the day and is very sensitive to cable changes.
I also wished to thank Peter for helpng with the built process and solving the turn on thumb.
keep up the good work and for introducing me to the world of DIY audio.
KP
Air cored cables ...?
Has anyone tried air cored coaxial cables used in large cable TV networks ? There is a spacer every few cm but it's mostly air and the center core is generally designed for RF use with some being copper coated iron but you do have copper cores also . If the copper core is available then it's worth trying. You may need two lengths to carry the signal and just use the shields as a shield and not carry signal.
Has anyone tried air cored coaxial cables used in large cable TV networks ? There is a spacer every few cm but it's mostly air and the center core is generally designed for RF use with some being copper coated iron but you do have copper cores also . If the copper core is available then it's worth trying. You may need two lengths to carry the signal and just use the shields as a shield and not carry signal.
Hi Andrew, I wasn't talking about cellular ( foamed) insulation, I was talking about real air core. They have spacers to keep the core at the center . Between spacers the core is free standing.
I'll try to find a picture of that . It's been there for a long time.
It's available here in the local market. It needs a large bending radius to keep the section from collapsing.
Edit : Here is one of them. The spacer runs linearly all through. I thought I saw one cable with spaced discs at intervals. I could be wrong. If I find that I'll post another picture. But this one is pretty much 'mostly' air spaced.
I'll try to find a picture of that . It's been there for a long time.
It's available here in the local market. It needs a large bending radius to keep the section from collapsing.
Edit : Here is one of them. The spacer runs linearly all through. I thought I saw one cable with spaced discs at intervals. I could be wrong. If I find that I'll post another picture. But this one is pretty much 'mostly' air spaced.
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