After having my first attempt not work very well, I analysed the problems.
1. I forgot to add a place to solder the output lead.
2. The leads were oddly positioned.
3. The "jumper" on the top side had to go.
4. I needed bigger traces.
5. I needed bigger holes.
After a little work in Eagle, I have the PCB below.
Aside from a little neatening, I have one modification to make before I get to etching. I'm not sure of where to put the 0.1uf MKP bypass caps : Right next to the LM3875, or right next to the 100uf caps?
1. I forgot to add a place to solder the output lead.
2. The leads were oddly positioned.
3. The "jumper" on the top side had to go.
4. I needed bigger traces.
5. I needed bigger holes.
After a little work in Eagle, I have the PCB below.
Aside from a little neatening, I have one modification to make before I get to etching. I'm not sure of where to put the 0.1uf MKP bypass caps : Right next to the LM3875, or right next to the 100uf caps?
Attachments
Hi,
the bypass cap is the MAIN route in for the signal (also applies to NFB blocking cap). All the high frequency and most of the mid are determined by this cap.
Forget all else and get this cap on the shortest direct route in to the chip pin.
Then try to wrap the electrolytic route around it. It is only there to try and boost the bass response and nothing else.
Based on the above the plastic cap should be as large a value as you can afford (both PCB space and cost). 2u2F is a good start but maybe aim for 10uF or a //pair of 4u7F.
the bypass cap is the MAIN route in for the signal (also applies to NFB blocking cap). All the high frequency and most of the mid are determined by this cap.
Forget all else and get this cap on the shortest direct route in to the chip pin.
Then try to wrap the electrolytic route around it. It is only there to try and boost the bass response and nothing else.
Based on the above the plastic cap should be as large a value as you can afford (both PCB space and cost). 2u2F is a good start but maybe aim for 10uF or a //pair of 4u7F.
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