Self adhesive copper track Gainclone

[ash_dac]

Hi,



http://www.rapidonline.com/netalogue/specs/34-0635.pdf

I was thinking about using copper track on matrix board to build a pcb for a Gainclone. To change track direction I would need to solder at the joint. Then maybe some lacquer after completion.

However, I'm unsure what current these tracks could handle, and is the peel adhesion enough ?

[DoomPixie]

I have used this stuff before for simple circuits in college and for repairing tracks on damaged pcb's.. its very handy stuff to have around.. I actually built a constant current battery charger for chargeing r/c car batteries from a 12V supply useing just self adhesive copper tracks and a few sheets of perspex in college, made a box out of perspex and built the circuit on another piece of perspex useing this stuff and stuck the perspex in like a shelf inside the box, looked really cool and worked well.. not sure about how long the adhesive will hold for under normal operateing conditions though but it was a pain in the *** because i had to solder everythign before i stuck it to the perspex and it was more for show than actuall use, was one of my projects i had to do for my HND.
Owen

[Greg Erskine]

Originally posted by ash_dac
I was thinking about using copper track on matrix board to build a pcb for a Gainclone. To change track direction I would need to solder at the joint. Then maybe some lacquer after completion.

However, I'm unsure what current these tracks could handle, and is the peel adhesion enough ?

Hi ash_dac,

As mentioned in the pdf, this is also used for stained glass. It is available in various widths and may be cheaper bought through stained glass suppliers.

regards

[ash_dac]

Originally posted by Greg Erskine


Hi ash_dac,

As mentioned in the pdf, this is also used for stained glass. It is available in various widths and may be cheaper bought through stained glass suppliers.

regards

In a normal pcb how is the copper bonded to the circuit board ?



I'm not too sure if I used matrix board that the track would stick to the board due to the holes. Once soldered I guess it would hold together. But would the components be under strain ?

[ash_dac]

Hi,

Forgot to say that the LMXXXX chip has to be mounted diagonally!

[Greg Erskine]

Hi ash_dac,

I can't answer all your questions but as I had all the bits on hand I did a little experiment, see picture.

It definitely sticks to the protoboard.

The stuff I used seems a little thin, but should still work OK.

At one end, I applied the soldering iron to see what happens when it gets very hot. The glue seems to let go around the edges but it didn't lift right off.

So its probably worth experimenting with.

regards

[AndrewT]

Hi,
the soldered legs will hold it in place. The proto board then just acts to hold the components and copper strips in their rightful places.

You can fold the copper strip at the corners. Do not cut it!
Fold it round to the angle you want. Lift the excess up to a point, press the flat strip down into the board and then fold the sticky up bit over on top of the flat strip. You can even sweat some solder into the two adjacent faces.

[PeteM]

Hi

You will have trouble with the LM**** pin pitch using that matrix board from Maplin.You will have to bend some pins of the LM**** to fit the holes.

Sorry to throw water on your idea but why not just buy yourself a couple of metres of CT100, and use the inner conductor to hard wire the components together.

[dnsey]

My son's school uses this stuff stuck to MDF for teaching basic electronics. It seems to stsnd up to inexpert sodering pretty well!

[AndrewT]

Hi,
single core 0.6mm is ideal for all the low to medium current interconnections. Very short lengths (<5mm) left without insulation. Longer lengths with insulation kept on. Colours help trace the circuits workings.