Self adhesive copper track Gainclone

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AndrewT said:
Hi,
most semis specify 300degC for 10seconds maximum.
If you delay by trying to heat up a pin with too low a tip temperature then heat transfers to the internals and risks damage.

If you can get a succesfull joint at 330degC in 5 seconds you end up with LESS heat inside the semi and less risk of damage. But you must be quick.

Hi,

Sounds like when I used to solder nicad batteries back in my radio controlled car days!
 
My soldering skills took a quantum leap when I abandoned my hotstick type iron and bought a soldering station with adjustable temperature.

Another tip, buy the right solder. I'm not talking about lead-free, silver blah blah, but the right diameter. (Smaller is usually better unless you are doing plumbing repairs!)
 
I totally agree on the solder diametre tip.

I used to use leaded solder but then switched to some lead free silver solder. Worked ok but i had a few issues getting used to it. I then mention it to my Dad who gave me a load of old leaded solder. I was a fair bit fatter that most solder i had used before. I thought being lead it would flow really nicely but the added diameter made it i nightmare. You simply couldnt get enough heat energy into the soldering iron tip to make to work properly.

I then switched back to my much smaller diameter leadfree and it flet absolutely brilliant in comparison.

MY advice is that the diameter has a much greater effects that solder type.

Phil
 
davidlzimmer said:
Just a thought.

Seems to me it would be much, much simpler to just p2p. You can p2p an LM3886 in less than an hour.

An hour!

My heatsink has arrived (17" long and 4.75" wide). I need to chop it up a bit....



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