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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

Portable Outdoor solution...
Portable Outdoor solution...
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Old 15th August 2006, 10:03 PM   #1
Kalash is offline Kalash  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Default Portable Outdoor solution...

I've been going crazy (lack of sleep... stupid forums ) the last week looking around these forums (and my lack of attention span shows... I ended up in the LED projector forums for my first post )

But... I've been trying to come up with something that's semi-completely portable, easy to power, and LOUD!

The t-amp looks good... it's simple (I like simple...) and put together... and cheap (Oh yeah... I forgot... I'm kinda on a budget....)

I guess... I'm thinking of getting something that can play music at the beach for about a 100 sq ft area... and be heard above the ocean waves, birds, cars on the freeway, other groups of people that are too close for comfort....

But it has to be battery operated (no generators are permitted on the beach...).

The T-amp covers everything except for volume...

Now... I was thinking here (and thinking hurts a lot...) but they said you couldn't bridge a t-amp.

Not fully understanding what that means (did I mention I was a noob?) it looks like you can't hook up both the left and right speaker outputs on the t-amp to one speaker (with only the left input going into it....) and a parallel one for the right channel...

What if I didn't care about right and left?
What could I do then?

I was thinking...

boostaroo (http://boostaroo.com) as a pre-amp/splitter for the audio source...
2 (or since I just looked and the boostaroo has 3 outputs... maybe 3) t-amps...
Now... here's the tricky bit.... You can't hook up a mono source to one t-amp and output to one speaker... but... CAN YOU hook up a stereo source to 2 (or 3) t-amps (it makes more sense with 2...) and output the left speaker of BOTH t-amps to ONE speaker... and BOTH right outputs to ONE speaker - resulting in 2 DOUBLE POWERED both chanel speakers?

In theory it seems possible....


Boostaroo ----------- t-amp1---------
= = =
= (left) =
= = =
t-amp 2 ---(left)----speaker1 =
= =
= =

If that makes sense....

So... WOULD that work?
Or... can someone suggest a better solution (for $150-$200)?

And... what about the TDA2075A? http://www.tripath.com/pbA2075A.htm

Wouldn't that be a better option? (And... am I reading that correctly? (not that I know what an external Mosfet is...))

That looks (to me...) like it would run off 5 or 9 volts... (9 volt batteries would power the thing???) with 90 watts output at 8 ohms...

Of course... I could be completely off... I don't know much about any of these things and still wonder how a funky looking horseshoe can be a word...

But I want to learn

Idealy I want to take my 2 tower speakers (they're digitalpro audio - there's a lot of info on them from scam sites - they came out of the back of a white van....) and power them with something small and portable...

As for the speakers - from what info I read on them.... when I could find it....
they're 8 ohm,
minimum of 10 watts to power...

And... eh... that's about it...
There's 2 (I think 6 inch) speakers in each one... and a tweeter in each one...

Could a t-amp handle them?
Would it be loud enough to be worth while?

And... anyone saying the speakers are/were a scam... I'm happy with them.

I was happy with my $20 computer speakers from walmart.
Then I hooked those things up...
And I didn't really notice a difference...

But when the amp left (it was a roommates) and I went back to the $20 speakers.... WOW!

I didn't know how I'd managed to listen to those things!


Suggestions and/or encouragement is what I'm looking for...

Of course... the other option would be to just buy a cheap home stereo reciever and get one of these things;

I guess... how long would that work for?
Anyone know?
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Old 16th August 2006, 02:24 AM   #2
Bearman is offline Bearman  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Utah
What I would do is wait for Jan's AMP4, due out in a few weeks. It's 2x50 watts into 8 ohms, that runs on single supply. It will run on 24v so you could hook a couple of 12v batteries together to get 24v. It has it's own PSU onboard so you just need batteries.

If your speakers are efficient, it should last a while.

I have my own small AMP3 for backpacking and it uses AA's and sounds pretty good for being 20 miles away from nowhere.
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Old 16th August 2006, 12:28 PM   #3
Kalash is offline Kalash  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Thanks for the suggestion!

Except... it says specifically that amp4 requires good soldering skills (mine are.... alright..... I did manage to solder a Hipgear Screen from a controller to an xbox motherboard... and had it working for a while... the case fell apart on me though and broke the ribon cable going to the screen <_<)

I don't know if I'm up for soldering a bunch of surface mount stuff.

What about amp 5 though?
2X60 watts at 8 ohms should be plenty, shouldn't it?

What kind of power input does it require?

* Transformer with mains fuse and power switch

What is that? Transformer - something about twisting metal into a coil... What if you have a DC power source? Is this still necessary? What voltage input is required?

* Enclosure with connectors for speakers and line input if required

I'll come up with something...

* Heat sink. For many applications, screwing the components to a metal enclosure is sufficient as a heat sink. However, for high power applications like bridged mono 8 ohms or high power 4 ohms, a heat sink is recommended.

Seems easly enough...

* Mounting screws

Not hard...
* Volume control or pot if required

Umm... how necessary is this? There will be an mp3 player or CD player hooked up to the amp - volume control is on the player... is a seperate volume control necessary?

The other thing about these kits...
What all DOES need done with them?
I understand the surface mount ones are VERY involved...

The hole mount ones... if I understand it right... you poke a piece of the... whatever you're trying to attach... through a hole in the PCB, then solder the bottom of the board to hold the component in place.

Is that right?

With casing - for the input and output terminals... are those included in the kit? If not - what kind of connectors are necessary to hook them to the board?

I'm tired - can't think right... but those are all the questions my slacking mind can come up with.
Thanks again for the suggestions though
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Old 16th August 2006, 07:56 PM   #4
Kalash is offline Kalash  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006

I'll answer one of those questions - the amp5 requires 3 psu's...

So... portability and power consumption issues arise...

How hard is it to solder surface mount pieces?
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Old 17th August 2006, 02:47 AM   #5
Bearman is offline Bearman  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Utah
It's not too bad with some good equipment. Most important is a pair of head magnifying glasses. Also a good soldering iron. An adjustable temp type soldering station works well with a fine tip, and some flux and a pair of tweezers.

If your hands are not very steady.....well forget all of the above. It takes some good steady placement and just a small drop of solder and that's it. Some people prefer SMT parts and signal wise, it makes for closer parts.

You can email me offline if you don't think you can do the above. I think it's fun and challenging.
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Old 17th August 2006, 03:18 AM   #6
Bearman is offline Bearman  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Utah
The AMP5 has it's own onboard 5v and by omitting the bridge rectifier, it can be done with two car batteries. By hooking up two together in series, you can get a V- G V+

The AMP5 consumes a bit of watts though and I don't know how long your battery life would be. It might be worth a try though.
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Old 17th August 2006, 05:12 AM   #7
Kalash is offline Kalash  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
You lost me at Bridge Rectifier...

And... I understand series...


(spaces don't hold for some reason... ignore the __ in the middle...)

I'm thinking it may be a bit beyond me...
I'd love to give it a shot, but I've never had any luck with soldering irons...

I've had 5 different ones... Gas and electric... and I've never had them perform like they should...

When I was soldering to the motherboard of the xbox I got solder all over the pins - they were a good size... - and had to pull it off and start over.
I even gave up on parts (soldering a wire to two pins that were about 3mm apart) and just used a solder connection between the pins.

While it worked, it was far from pretty... and anything smaller... heh... forget it.

It won't let me email you though.
You can write to me at aklash(shift+2)gmail.com
Thanks again.
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