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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goulburn NSW
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Just for interest here is my latest clone module, hopefully optimised for tweeter use. It will be totally enclosed in a copper case around the circuitry tomorrow once tested, it is as small as I can make it, virtually all P2p SMDs, LM1875 chip, 12V battery supply, gain of 15, 47uf caps with a bank of 10 snubbered 10uf caps per rail, (off board and not shown).
The watch is shown for comparision. Input/powerwiring is foil wrapped and earthed to the groundplane which is insulated from the heatsink, and the output runs under the heatsink and up through a hole just under the output tab on the chip. I am absolutely determined to kill any chance of oscillation in the search for the "tube clone sound". |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goulburn NSW
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Here is another pic a bit easier to see.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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What is that yellow cap ZO?
__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goulburn NSW
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Hi Nuuk
The yellow cap is a .1 uf bypass on the input 2.2uf input cap, to help keep the highs all sweet, the main input cap is SMD, I could have used a chip cap, however I,m a little dubious about using chip caps in the signal path, hence the MKT. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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If you are going for the 'ultimate' tweeter amp, you can get away with a much lower value input DC blocker and go for a good quality polyprop, or even paper-in-oil type.
IMHO, polyester types in the signal path are lo-fi rather than hi-fi! What's a chip cap?
__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goulburn NSW
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Hi Nuuk
Yep I agree entirely I will be using a better grade cap, this is a prototype to test a few things, in fact the final modules will only have a small blocking cap, and be fed via an active crossover, so only 6000 Hz and up will be going to the module. Chip caps are non polarized SMD caps that look, well like a tiny tiny brick, pretty poor quality apparently. Heres and update, I finsihed the module today with its little copper coffin all around the module and it is running right now, but in full range mode (ie driving my full range speaker set-up) with 3200uf off baord caps and the sound, very very nice, somewhat smoother than the other clone module on the other speaker, nicer mids/upper. Currently its running on 12smps, but going on my expereince from a couple weeks back I feel the 18v battery set-up with the 100uf cap banks be nicer still once hooked up for tweeter use. And thanks for your interest and comments, how low do you think I could go on the blocking cap value. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Melbourne, Australia
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"that look, well like a tiny tiny brick,"
I think chip caps look like a little bed with a pillow at each end
__________________
Best-ever T/S parameter spreadsheet. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi...tml#post353269 |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goulburn NSW
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Yep and just about small enough for an errant flea to get a kip on when he gets a bit tired.
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Somerset, SW England
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Quote:
__________________
The truth need not be veiled, for it veils itself from the eyes of the ignorant. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Goulburn NSW
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The resistor to ground on the input is 1M does that help?
Just put the little fella to sleep after running for 7 hrs, not even warm to touch...lovely |
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