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#1 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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I enjoyed making this simple chassis using just 4 aluminium panels and 2 heatsinks.
The top and bottom pannels sit in ridges cut into the heatisnks with a table saw, and then the front and back panels just bolt into the end fins. Front and back panels are 8mm, and top/bottom 3mm. The top will be replaced with some perforated sheet eventually. All the panels will eventually be anodized. Rear panel fixings are held with M3 nut and bolts, and panels that join to the heatsinks are held by M4 bolts tapped directly into the heatsnks so no additional brackets required. Peter Daniel donated some nice fasteners for the feet.
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"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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Peter, what's the preferred way to cut thick alu plate from the option of bandsaw and tablesaw. I've never used the bandsaw but considering investing in one.
Also, what's the preferred tool for deburring panel edges? Finally any recomendations on a linisher, or type of, as this is usually where my panels start going out of shape. Those fasteners fit M5 tap perfectly btw.
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Looks excellent!
I too have tried to develop simplified chassis building techniques. How did you cut the bar stock? Or is that a plate that's been cut down? Cut on table saw, normal blade? Rip sheet metal on table saw and find that heat sinks often softer like sheet metal but use chop saw on bar stock. Part I hate most is cutting square holes in bar stock... (iec jacks etc) [EDIT] I have a 12 inch bandsaw. Finally got better grade bi-metal blade for it. Was going through heatsinks and other angle pieces like butter, but then struggled on bar stock. Maybe I need a different grade that is softer. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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nice work -- to debur the edges I use a scraper -- a flat piece of steel used in cabinetry.
i also have put a bull-nose (round over) on aluminum with an end mill. fwiw, there is an entire cottage industry of proto-typing companies in the U.S. -- you just send them your AudoCAD, Solidworks etc. drawings and they send back a CNC'd part in a couple of days -- panelexpress has been advertising in some magazines but there are many, many companies doing this now. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Laurel Springs N.J. (Near Philly)
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You can buy a hand deburring tool for the edges. McMaster-Carr, Grainger, and MSC all carry them. Very easy to use and finishes the edges nicely. Not very expensive either.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: East TN
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Really beautiful work. Where are the heatsinks from?
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
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Quote:
That is spectacular! And, yes, where are the heatsinks from? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Hampshire
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Very nice indeed!!! I'd love something like that for my Gainclone - unfortunately living in a small flat in London I don't have the luxury of being able to do this work myself :-(
Where did you get the aluminium from? Cheers! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Fredericia, DK
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Really nice work
I guess you can drive them forever at full volume without having to worry about them getting hot. Thanks for sharing ideas. All the best Ebbe |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: cleveland, ohio
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Yo should sell them, I'm sure you could make a few bucks off of it...
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