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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Dear sir....
i am plannin to setup a subwoofer n "4 other speakers" ...i have a 8 " Dainty..100 watts RMS.. the problem is the amplifier is usually connected before the crossover network rite... n my other speakers are rated as 5 watts.. 4 ohms ( i managed to remove 2 speakers from an old Pioneer music system with pretty gud cone area which i plan to use as midrange...) the tweeter too is of the same specification.... to power the subwoofer i will have to use a amplifier of 50 watts RMS ( which i guess will be enough.. plz. plz. plz.. help me out if u have any suggestions with it) which will be connected to the crossover network... the other speakers are also connected to the crossover ..so wont the power from the amplifier burn my "other speakers"...or can i give the input into the crossover through a small amplifier ... then from the crossover through the 50 watt amplifier to the subwoofer -- am planning 2 install this in my room not in a car... i cant go 4 expensive ones as the means r limited... secondly.... i tried..workin with an IC 810 powered amplifier ( 7 watts) for my other speakers... but most ppl say .... using IC 810 is not a Good idea... can u plz help me with a amplifier for my other speakers too????? i mean smthn which i can build.......and not very expensive as for the sub amp.... this is one circuit i found on net ... will this be enough.... Plz check out http://sound.westhost.com/project19.htm if there is something better please help me finally ...so can i connect the subwoofer through an amplifier which takes the input from the crossover "WOOFER OUT PUT SOCKET" |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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Mby u cud ... try... 2 rite w/ fwr abbrvs... 'n' more paragraphs ... cuz is 4 mst ppl hrd 2 read like that.
Rune
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Do wizards use spell checkers? |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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This is the edited version ..... If the moderator can Please remove my first post.... n post this ....readers can save a lot of time
i am plannin to setup a subwoofer and "4 other speakers" ...i have a 8 " Dainty..100 watts RMS.. ... n my other speakers are rated as 5 watts.. 4 ohms ( i managed to remove 2 speakers from an old Pioneer music system with pretty gud cone area which i plan to use as midrange...) the tweeter too is of the same specification.... 1) the problem is ... till now ...i used an IC 810 powered amplifier which feeds the signal into a crosssover.... n all "other " speakers...( i mean speakers other than the sub)... are directly connected ......now if i wanna connect a sub woofer wats the nex step.... shall i directly connect the "woofer out " from the crossover to the a sub amplifier n then to the crossover..... 2) secondly.... i tried..workin with an IC 810 powered amplifier ( 7 watts) for my other speakers... but most ppl say .... using IC 810 is not a Good idea... can u plz help me with a amplifier for my other speakers too????? i mean smthn which i can build.......and not very expensive as for the sub amp.... this is one circuit i found on net ... will this be enough.... Plz check out http://sound.westhost.com/project19.htm.... is this circuit throwing out 50 watts RMS or jus 50 watts.....i m totally confused if there is something better please help me |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brisbane
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Rods circuit and board are great. Very close to the evaluation circuit from the National Data sheet. As is the one I posted here Bridged LM3875 PCB
Rods comes as two amps to the board the one in the link is mono
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David L |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
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Yup thanx 4 the circuit..... jus 4 clarification.. the 50 Watts... the circuit delivers... is 50 Watts RMS rite
and can u please suggest a good amplifier to power my other 4 speakers rated 5 watts n 4 ohms |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brisbane
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Data sheet is here http://www.national.com/search/searc...eywords=lm3876
Says its 50W continuous and 100W peak For your other amps look through these http://www.national.com/VCatalog/vie...&tId=122&text=
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David L |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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SivanandBalan |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Hi Swar,
how about plain English? I too, am totally confused, even the edited version beat me! We are not all texters here, particularly not me.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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HI swar,
Chuck that 810 right out, almost of all of them are fake .It was originally manufactured by SGS thomson which has since become STMicro, anyways it has way too much distortion and too little power to be of any use.Use something like the TA-7230~TA7207 etc although these are also fake , even the fake ones sound good and have decent power output at low distortion levels.The original devices were manufactured by Toshiba may be arnd 25 years back !! Almost all of the Japanese portable cassette players used these..and sounded decent.YOu will get these for arnd Rs 75/-, and very few external components are needed..can do on a piece of prototypin board, i used to have one for driving a pair of Philips headphones ! which it was pretty good at.. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: india-chennai
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hi swaroop...
nice to read ur post , and infact i am also using dainty speakers. and if you r looking for a edcent 50 watts amp, try tda2050, it costs 40-45 rupees and easily available. use two ics in briged connection and you can get very easily 50 watts RMS @ 4 ohm with 12-0-12 V, 5 Amp supply....and i am saying this with confidance coz i have made one as a project in my collage.. dude this the best deal for cheap nd easy 50 watt sub.. |
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