Go Back   Home > Forums > Amplifiers > Chip Amps
Home Forums Rules Articles Store Gallery Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 4th June 2006, 09:01 PM   #1
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: fort collins co
Default How Hot Can The LM3875 Get - do I need vent holes?

Here is my finished LM3875. There is an aluminun plate that covers the top, and a wood enclosure the whole thing slips into.

I am trying to figure out if I need vent holes.

The heatsink fins are facing the side instead of up as would be better of course. Heat sink compund was used. 27.5 volts at each rail. 330 VA toroid.

I have only tested for heat with the amp at about 75% of volume, for a few minutes with the aluminum top loosely on to keep the heat in for the test.

Chips get hot, but easy to touch and keep a finger on. Heat sink gets warm, not hot. Toroid stays cool.

With wood suuronding the aluminum and running at full volume and at extended duration will be a better test.

QUESTION: How hot can it get comfortabley - the chips too hot to touch still ok? If the heat sink gets hot but not too hot to hold is the temp ok?

Have others had to add vent holes, and if so hoy many? Any pics?
Attached Images
File Type: jpg chipamp.jpg (99.2 KB, 476 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2006, 09:10 PM   #2
diyAudio Moderator
 
pinkmouse's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Chatham, England
The cooler you keep the chips, the more reliable they will be. A good basic rule is that if you can't keep your fingers on the heatsinks more more than a couple of seconds, they are too hot.

Personally, I would put vent holes in, above and below the heatsinks so the air can move past the heatsinks as it warms.
__________________
Al
I conceive of nothing, in religion, science or philosophy, that is more than the proper thing to wear, for a while. Charles Fort
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2006, 09:24 PM   #3
poobah is offline poobah  United States
diyAudio Member
 
poobah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
P. Mouse is right on the money... every 11 C increase in temp cuts the life in half.

I can't see everything so clearly, but if you can manage a row of 8 1/2" (13mm) holes through the top, bottom, AND the fins, that would make a world of difference. I don't know how long (deep) the fins are though.

On your next amp (or this one) use heat sinks that have vertical fins... you'll still need the ventillation top and bottom. Horizontal fins, unless they have a fan are really crippled... about 10 - 20% as effective as vertical fins.

  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2006, 10:52 PM   #4
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: fort collins co
Maybe best way is to put 3 half inch diameter holes in the heatsink itself - vertically, so the draft created will suck up the hot air through the fin area. And the same holes on the housing directly above and below these. Sacrifice a bit of fit area but get a nice draft flow upward to vent.

Maybe a few additional holes in the top and bottom housing in the same general area.
  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2006, 10:54 PM   #5
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: fort collins co
Is it correct that this is a bigger heatsink than would normally be needed (so the loss of heat sink mass from the added holes will not be a problem), but because of the poor orientation of the fins, even with some holes for venting, it may just be adequate?

  Reply With Quote
Old 4th June 2006, 11:07 PM   #6
poobah is offline poobah  United States
diyAudio Member
 
poobah's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Heat sink mass helps... mass to heat is the same as capacitance to current... it will absorb heat (current) temporarily and therefore limit the temperature (voltage) rise.

The resistance to ambient (a resistor bleeding/burning the energy) in a heat sink is about fin area and the cross sections of metal form heat source to ambient. Mass will store heat but it won't shed it... a low resistance (big fins and thick webs) from sink to air will. Vertical is SO important.

I think some holes that get a vertical flow going are a great idea... even if you lose 10% of the fin area.

I think he could do more than 3 holes easy 6... 8.
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th June 2006, 03:16 AM   #7
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
I like those gold plated fuses/fuse holders you have there...Can you tell me where I can find them?

Dominick
__________________
A real amateur enthusiast!
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th June 2006, 12:02 PM   #8
frank1 is offline frank1  United Kingdom
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Devon UK
It is not good practice to put heatsinks inside an enclosure. The whole box and everything inside will heat up.
The fins should be in free air.
If the box itself is the heatsink, then thats a different matter but you then cannot sleeve it in wood....
Frank
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th June 2006, 01:50 PM   #9
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: fort collins co
Quote:
Originally posted by Dominick22
I like those gold plated fuses/fuse holders you have there...Can you tell me where I can find them?

Dominick

They are not gold plated fuse holders, just looks that way from the picture...
  Reply With Quote
Old 5th June 2006, 03:43 PM   #10
diyAudio Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: fort collins co
Quote:
Originally posted by frank1
It is not good practice to put heatsinks inside an enclosure. The whole box and everything inside will heat up.
The fins should be in free air.
If the box itself is the heatsink, then thats a different matter but you then cannot sleeve it in wood....
Frank
Instead of the horizontal fins with vertical holes, how about this puppy on the top or side? It is 6 inches long. See picture...

What is the best orientation for this heat sink -
1. flat base down, fins up
2. flat base vertical, fins horizontal
3. falt base vertical, fins vertical

Notice the fins have a T notch on ends that will interrupt air flow.

Easiest way to mount and best fit is #1 above, on top of amp. But the air flow???
Attached Images
File Type: jpg heatsink.jpg (91.7 KB, 230 views)
  Reply With Quote

Reply


Hide this!Advertise here!

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Who can cut holes? smellygas Multi-Way 8 2nd August 2009 08:17 PM
How to cut holes for tubes woody Tubes / Valves 23 23rd December 2004 07:24 PM
See, there are black holes Bill Fitzpatrick Everything Else 8 22nd December 2004 02:11 AM
holes for woofer hacknet Multi-Way 14 17th December 2002 10:18 AM
[WAY OFF-TOPIC] Holes in CD's AudioKid Everything Else 13 9th February 2002 03:45 PM


New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 11:35 AM.

Page generated in 0.16376 seconds (58.99% PHP - 41.01% MySQL) with 11 queries

Copyright ©1999-2012 diyAudio