3 way active speaker system + Subwoofer based on Lm 3886 & 4780

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If this is any interest to you, I have already built a 3way active speaker system.
I am just now building a 6 channel amp so I can get rid of the Quads that I currently use. I shall be using LM3886's in the mid and high channels and Rod Elliots P3a's in bridge mode for the lows. This is a sealed box design with Linkwitz transform to extend the f3 to 20Hz (which it does and sounds good too)
http://www.fdj.org.uk/loudspeakers
Note: Absolutely no subwoofer needed!
Frank
 
well PCB s r ready ..
 

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Great - I'm not the only one :D

For my fronts and rears I am useing a variation of Elliott's P03A for the bass, LM3876 for the mids and LM1875s for the highs.
The centre was going to be all LM3876s but I changed my mind and built 2 LM3876s and one LM1875 then changed my mind again and am putting together a reference circuit for the LM4781
mainly in the interests of space saving - all those boards take up a lot of room :bawling:

My sub is Elliotts P68 driving a Shriva 12" in a 5 cft vented down firing enclosure - really rocks the house :D

Now that I've got my 625VA tranny I'm thinking of building a separate PSU and have one enclosure for preamps and Xovers and possibly the centre amps and one for all the rest.

Keep building :smash:
 
hi guys...well pcb r ready and i have completed 3 amplifiers..but i have to go on 1 month office duty and will not be able to carry on the project upto one month...
anyhow i have uploaded the pcb layout and schematic on
http://geocities.com/go4ks

kuldeep


(laser - print - iron technique i tried many times but never got good results , sometimes pcb cracks, swells due to heat, sometimes transfer is not complete..but i was very satisfied by this method)
 
one dammn easy method of etching the PCBs at home...
1. Get the print out of the circuit from a laser printer on a glossy papaer, preferably the paper available in market from the stationaers just by the name of glossy foto paper used for foto prints.

2. Cut the pcb of same sizde as the print

3. Keep an iron ready, put the print on the pcb and start pressing it putting some weight over it.

4. After 4-5 full presses, the whole print is transfered over the pcb.

5. Put the PCB with ink transfered over it ina solution of water+FeCl3.

6. Shake the PCB in the solution for some time.

7. Soon there will be a visble indiacation of the copper getting removed from the pcb and the tracks remaining.

8. Polish the PCB to protect it from rusting

9. Or you can tin the tracks after the soldering is done.

10. The PCB is ready to be soldered.
 
one dammn easy method of etching the PCBs at home...
1. Get the print out of the circuit from a laser printer on a glossy papaer, preferably the paper available in market from the stationaers just by the name of glossy foto paper used for foto prints.

2. Cut the pcb of same sizde as the print

3. Keep an iron ready, put the print on the pcb and start pressing it putting some weight over it.

4. After 4-5 full presses, the whole print is transfered over the pcb.

5. Put the PCB with ink transfered over it ina solution of water+FeCl3.

6. Shake the PCB in the solution for some time.

7. Soon there will be a visble indiacation of the copper getting removed from the pcb and the tracks remaining.

8. Polish the PCB to protect it from rusting

9. Or you can tin the tracks after the soldering is done.

10. The PCB is ready to be soldered.


tHANKS....VERY HELPFUL...
 
one dammn easy method of etching the PCBs at home...
1. Get the print out of the circuit from a laser printer on a glossy papaer, preferably the paper available in market from the stationaers just by the name of glossy foto paper used for foto prints.

2. Cut the pcb of same sizde as the print

3. Keep an iron ready, put the print on the pcb and start pressing it putting some weight over it.

4. After 4-5 full presses, the whole print is transfered over the pcb.

5. Put the PCB with ink transfered over it ina solution of water+FeCl3.

6. Shake the PCB in the solution for some time.

7. Soon there will be a visble indiacation of the copper getting removed from the pcb and the tracks remaining.

8. Polish the PCB to protect it from rusting

9. Or you can tin the tracks after the soldering is done.

10. The PCB is ready to be soldered.

Between steps 4 & 5 I put PCB with paper(which is glued to the board by toner) to warm water a for few minutes. Then paper can be easily removed and if there are some spots that get ripped off can be easily repaired with permanent marker.
Some hints : I found it very important to clean PCB well with acetone or so before ink transfer. Many types of glossy paper work , including magazine pages and so on, some better some worse.
However be sure that paper does not have plastic coating! Laser printer heats paper and if plastic coating gets melted then printer can go to a bin.
Good luck!
 
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