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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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Hi,
My pc speakers are nearly dead. (4W X 2 from 12V walwart) Could I use the Lm3886 on a reduced powersupply ? http://www.national.com/appinfo/audi...gn_Guide15.xls (The spreadsheet tells informs me that I can't use less that +-10V. However, the datasheet shows THD on 0.1, 1 watt with another graph showing that it may clip at reduced voltage). Tdaxxxx chip amps have much worse poorer supply rejection ratio compared to the LMxxxx series so I would expect more distortion, layout problems, and oscillations. I have ordered three Lm3886 for future projects but i'd like a recommendation of a chip amp for low power applications. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Chicago, Il
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Using a lm3886 or something within that family may be overkill. For simple, bullet proof amplifiers I use the lm4752 / lm4755. They have 2 channels, and few external parts. You are not going to win any sound quality awards with the 4752/4755 but I prefer them over some the tda options.
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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I wouldnīt say itīs overkill really.
You can get it almost anywhere (+PCBs), itīs simple to implement (say well behaved) and not that expensive likewise (see trade forum; just got some). That said they indeed need 20V minimum. A chip I often heard and seen implemented in PC amps is the TDA2030. Itīs also on the edge with 12V (AC or DC?) but should work and has a nice sound. Better yet get the new version the TDA2040 (voltages from +-2.5V) or the TDA2052 (as TDA2030: +-6V)
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jens |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
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if your not set on DIY you might want to consider an SI, although you will want to watch the voltages from that wall wart with any T amp.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I think this might suit you just fine
http://translate.google.com/translat...lr%3D%26sa%3DG |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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Hi,
Lm3886- If I used a DC-DC convertor I could get -12V. I'm not sure that there would be enough current for any output! Any thoughts ? edit: just looking at LM384 |
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#7 | ||
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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Quote:
Hmm, donīt know how much effort youīre willing to input but I personally would rather keep it simple and go with a TDA2040 or alternatively getting another power supply/transformer for the LMīs. One TDA2040 should cost ~ a quid, a little transformer for the LMīs from salvaged equipment (printer wallwarts, audio amps, lighting transformers..) can often be had for nothing. The DC-DC converter will cost a bit and some nerves too to get it properly working and is nothing for a first time project anyway. You decide. Quote:
I remember they were a pain to get working noise-free. They both have fixed gains so youīd have to lower the input signal quite a bit which is not very advantegeous in your application.
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jens |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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Quote:
I've been digging around on the forum, and on the net this morning, and I have come to the conclusion that - L165 = LM1875 = LM675 = tda20x0 (close) I forgot that a speaker is really a motor ![]() The only reason I'm a bit wary of making the psu is the fact that I see numerous examples on this forum, and on the web of DIY power supplies that look frankly leathal ! I will have a look on the web for a book on how to safely build power supplies. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Germany
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If you donīt plan on further DIYing it can indeed be a bit involving reading about power supplies, safety issues, etc...
Another solution as already mentioned might be to find another wallwart with a bit more "juice" and voltage. I used a HP printer wallwart for a PC amp once. They usually have almost 30VDC at 1A. If you could find two:even better.
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jens |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: UK
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Lm3886 arrived yesterday.
I have gutted a NAD3130 (terrible insides) chassis to put the boards in. I have been using the overture design guide (model) using 8 ohm load, and 18V secondaries with 40C ambient temperature. The model recommended a heatsink of 5.94C / W for the TA package. This seems quite high to me but I guess this must reflect the 8 ohm load. Any thoughts on this ? It would certainly save on the heatsink costs. I plan to have the heatsinks isolated form the case, and run them live. I put the LM3886 onto stripboard (diagonally as recommended elsewhere on forum). |
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