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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
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Has anyone used something like this in GC designs? I read the Decibel Dungeon site about the Skynet modules. I am interested due to the comments about listening impressions.
Would a standard computer PSU be suitabile for use in a chipamp PSU? The following is not as cost effective, but is designed, built, and I am not a PSU designer/builder. (looking at the audiosector kit). http://newark.com/NewarkWebCommerce/...KU=83F2680&N=0 Also, it might allow a nice slim monoblock approach...sleek looking and all. Regards. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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if you want to purchase brand new switch mode power supply units check out Jameco --
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
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The Jameco units are 24V and would be 70usd each for ~140usd plus shipping.
I can get 4 12V Skynet units for 70gbp (~130usd) with shipping, and they are known to sound good. I think I'll go that route, but thanks for the lead on Jameco! Regards. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Silly'pore
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http://www.power-factor-1st.com/
These mean-well smps use rubycon capacitors, even lambda does not use them. I use 2 12v J60's for my gainclone, the sound is slightly dark, warm, detailed, with deep bass, totally quiet like my UCD180.... Priced way less than lamba in USA and, you don't have to wait for postage from motherland. And then, do the internal mods... I have a lambda too, i think there is no difference between mean-well. I have not tried cpu smps, but i don't think they could be any better. Strange enough, i like 12v to 24v, but Peter reassures me that the Lm3875 is underperforming at 12v. And those BG N100 capacitors do make an appreciable in refinement. Could try them with the money saved eh? ![]() Chuck. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
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Thanks for the lead. What about the S-150 line? 24V @ 6.5A. Two of those and I'm off to the races. Of course, I could start with one for savings...
But, with one set of speakers running 4ohms, will that be enough? Also, I need some help on the pin0out for these modules. It shows, G, V-, V-, V+, and V+. Does that mean there are two taps at the specified V and A ratings, or that the currrent gets cut in half by using both taps? Thanks again. Regards. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Silly'pore
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you need two to start. 24v S150 sounds like a good route. V-+G, on one side is for mains connection. The V+- on the other side will give you 24VDC. You need to connect one of the V+ and the V- of the other smps to give ground reference (pg+-,chg) to the amp. Then per normal, V+ on smps to V+ on amp and vice versa.
Attached a diagram from peter, for 24v, just imagine the use of 2 modules instead of 4. If you want actual pics like me know. Chuck. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
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Chuck,
Thanks! Makes sense. The S-150 units are available at TRC Electronics for ~45usd. I'd say that's my most economic option. Now: about mounting. Do you heatsink them? Or just give them vent holes? And, any shielding other than the aluminum or steel case you might have? Regards. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Shore, Maryland
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For aesthetic reasons, I would like to do a monoblock type of setup. How would a sinlge 24V unit be wired to a single audio channel.
Of course, the SMPS>cap>audio channel basic flow would be there. But, would the ground reference be the "V-" or the "G" terminal of the SMPS? Regards. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Silly'pore
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Ground would be the combination of V- and V+ of two different smps outputs, i don't see anyway of using one smps without some serious modifications. Look at the diagrams for linear supplies to try and imagine.
These smps are slightly different from Nuuks, where there are ground pins to use. Although i have successfully modded t-amps, chip amps and the ucd, i actually am pretty new to DIY (only a few months) and am an accountant by training. Learnt most of the my stuff by reading\asking silly questions and frying a few things here and there. I think hardcore diy'ers will cringe at the milieu of dead electronics i have caused. If you want monoblocks on the cheap, buy some toroidals from apexjr.com. They are less than $20 each sans shipping. The other way is that you have friends travelling to the far east. I got my lambda jws 150 for <$40 in singapore, when i was loitering back home. Occassionaly ebay might have blue light specials. Hope this helps, i am sure others will weigh in. Chuck |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Silly'pore
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Quote:
I left them as they are - outboard. Was going for the fashionable neo-industrial look. I have an acrylic casing, so it matches somewhat. Braiding the wires gave a cleaner look. |
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