Around here the line between artist and engineer blurs...you have to be a little of both.
Really cool amp by the way.
I agree to a point but this is not a mass market item it was simply a D.I.Y one off concept.
The OPAMP has quite a wide voltage range up to 36V MAX in the amps current config as its split internally (+/-18v) , not that I would want to run it at anywhere those levels.So for my own use I didn't see any point with over voltage protection
Voltage reversal has a higher chance of killing it so i suppose I should have added some protection there.
There was no point in running it from anything other than one of the many manufactured switch mode power supplies I had in the 12-24v range all of which have positive center pins I don't think I have a single PSU that is negative center to use by mistake but it could happen.
I think I used a lab power supply once to show the +/- rail voltages in the article so I guess I could have blown it up there by swopping the polarity
I doubt it will even get much use as I have a lot better amps to use with my headphones.It was a fun project and saw it more of a conversation piece sat on the desk
.I am sure in this forum we all have more amps than we need or can use yet they all have a place in our minds.
LM4780 dual mono
Audiosector LM 4780 pcbs standard BOM parallel/dual mono configuration
Antek an-3222 toroidal transformers with antek covers
Nichicon gold tune 6800uf power supply caps, 13,600uf per rail
Clarity caps MSA 4.7uf input caps
amb e27 colume control pcb
alps rk27 potentiometer
Cardass ACBP binding posts
Cardass CTFA rca's
Schurter MSM 19LA power switch
8audio volume knob, refinished to match brushed aluminum
Heatsink USA 6" x 6" heatsinks
walnut side panels cut from May 8, 2009 inland hurricane storm wood, tung oil finish
2024 aluminum parts cut and finished using hand tools and a drill press
total weight @43 lbs
Audiosector LM 4780 pcbs standard BOM parallel/dual mono configuration
Antek an-3222 toroidal transformers with antek covers
Nichicon gold tune 6800uf power supply caps, 13,600uf per rail
Clarity caps MSA 4.7uf input caps
amb e27 colume control pcb
alps rk27 potentiometer
Cardass ACBP binding posts
Cardass CTFA rca's
Schurter MSM 19LA power switch
8audio volume knob, refinished to match brushed aluminum
Heatsink USA 6" x 6" heatsinks
walnut side panels cut from May 8, 2009 inland hurricane storm wood, tung oil finish
2024 aluminum parts cut and finished using hand tools and a drill press
total weight @43 lbs
Attachments
I could take some close ups of the interior if that is what you mean. Or if you are referring to the leds on the pcbs they are really dim. I wish they were brighter but I don't know if it is worth the trouble to swap out the resistors. They are in a tight spot.
Hmm. I don't know. That would be kind of cool, I would definatly have to change that resistor though, and maybe a different color led (they are green now). I do remember seeing on here somewhere that someone used fiber optic cable and some craft wire to make light pipes that was pretty cool, I don't know if it would look right inside my amp but it would look cool in the dark. Like looking down at a stage. Hmmmm....
Here is my latest amp. It's a little cMoy headphone amp built into an old iPod 40Gb case. I built it to run my new Sennheiser HD280 Pros. It runs on a single 9v battery, which can be charged via a DC jack on the bottom. The switch is for bass boost, the on/off switch is built into the volume pot. The OpAmp used is a Burr Brown OPA2132PA and I have set the gain of the system to 3.3
I used 2 SMT LEDs for the power light and charging light. These are soldered to a piece of strip board and glued to the case. In picture 2, you can see the blue LED shining through the iPod front. The charging LED is below this and is red.
I used 2 SMT LEDs for the power light and charging light. These are soldered to a piece of strip board and glued to the case. In picture 2, you can see the blue LED shining through the iPod front. The charging LED is below this and is red.
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Thanks, yes there is a spring on both sides. It helps with "feel" of the knob. Yeah I may leave well enough alone on this amp and plus I ordered a lighter note today so I have to prepare for a new project
I love how compact your amp is. It is a great use for all the broken ipods out there!!
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Here is my latest little amp I built of some spare parts. It runs from 12 volts and the chip used is a TDA1519C. The sound is OK, nothing compared to my Gainclone or my headphone amp, but it'll do for the workshop...
The schematic used was the one straight out of the datasheet, nothing special apart from a 10 ohm resistor between signal ground and audio ground to help with ground loops etc.
The schematic used was the one straight out of the datasheet, nothing special apart from a 10 ohm resistor between signal ground and audio ground to help with ground loops etc.
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This is mine. LM3886 Ref.E diagram, plus music fidelity A1 preamp. Finished in Jan. of 2011.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
