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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

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Old 12th August 2007, 05:58 AM   #451
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KT,

Thanks. Lundahl amorphous core trannies in fact, add a little depth, are slightly more extended on the top end (without getting edgy) and give the low end a little "kick." They are pretty sonically transparent, and I definitely do prefer them in. I've had them set for 1:1 or 2:1, which gives me the full 30dB gain or steps it down to 24 dB gain. Galvanic isolation is just icing on the cake. The sound emanates from a spooky black background.

I first saw this used in Art Audio's Lissa. Thanks to Kevin Carter for helping out with this one.

Dave (planet10),

Thanks for the heads up. The pics show up fine for me, even on a different computer/server. I hope people just follow the link!

Best,
Anand.
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Old 16th August 2007, 12:19 AM   #452
pinoy82 is offline pinoy82  United States
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Thumbs up Gainclone Pointzero Kit Bridge 100W/CH

This is my second DIY Gainclone amp which run in bridge configuration, I bought the PCB boards only from Aaron who owns the EZamps website and I used Vishay/Dale metal film resistors, WIMA coupling caps, Panasonic FC electrolytic caps, OPA2134 OP Amp, OP07 OP Amp for servo. Dual Avel 160VA 22v transformer. I built a 50watt version of this kit but now prefer the 100 watt amp a lot of power. Listening impressions is very good even though this amp is not break in yet the details, imaging and clarity of this amp is amazing.

Jerry
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Old 16th August 2007, 02:10 AM   #453
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Default Extremely Well Done

That even impresses me. Thank you for taking the time to build this amplifier the way you wanted it. You've taken the basic kit, which is good by itself, and made it fit for royalty.
Very well done, sir!
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Old 21st August 2007, 08:11 AM   #454
sukyone is offline sukyone  Thailand
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Smile my lowcost LM3886 Amp

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Old 21st August 2007, 08:16 AM   #455
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Quote:
Originally posted by nycavsr2000
The pics show up fine for me, even on a different computer/server. I hope people just follow the link!
The pictures would be coming out of your browser's local cache.

dave
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Old 25th August 2007, 04:30 PM   #456
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Ok, as already mentioned in my thread about the CSS FR125S in aperiodic box, I build an accompanying amplifier for them from briangt lm3886 set.

I challenge everyone to build all 3 PCB's + toroid in a smaller package:.... I had a lot of fun (and stress ) trying to make the whole thing fit like that, there is really no inch left unused....

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Contrary to what you would expect there is no humming/noise audible at all...
I did not really know what to expect from these, but I was pleasantly surprised, this small amp really plays on the same level (or higher) as the big Marantz below it.

Cooling is on the minimalist side, the heatsink gets about 50 degrees celcius. But considering the case of the amp below it already gets 50 degrees when used the whole day I don't consider this a problem...

The power led isn't visible when off, because the hole isn't drilled completely through the front panel. Gives a cool effect in real life, the photo's don't do it justice..
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Old 25th August 2007, 10:54 PM   #457
troystg is offline troystg  United States
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"The power led isn't visible when off, because the hole isn't drilled completely through the front panel."

Is it Plexi or Lexan or something? It does look good.

Is the pwr switch upside down?
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Old 26th August 2007, 09:25 AM   #458
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Quote:
Originally posted by troystg
"The power led isn't visible when off, because the hole isn't drilled completely through the front panel."

Is it Plexi or Lexan or something? It does look good.

Is the pwr switch upside down?

It is white plexi (acryl), I bought from an industrial plastic's warehouse nearby. It wasn't my initial intention to use this particular plastic, I have a laptop standard made of some VERY nice plastic. It has a soft feeling to it on top, and a whitish matte finish, but still kind of transparent. But at the warehouse they didn't know what it was so I had to settle for this stuff. Turned out rather nice, but I would have preferred the other material. I suspect that that is some normal transparent plexi, with some special surface treatment, something with steel whool maybe.

About the power switch: HAHA , so I did turn it the wrong way up after all, I tried to figure out what the normal way is, but looking at pictures from the Internet I couldn't figure it out...
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Old 27th August 2007, 07:37 PM   #459
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedsmile

About the power switch: HAHA , so I did turn it the wrong way up after all, I tried to figure out what the normal way is, but looking at pictures from the Internet I couldn't figure it out...

Don't get too stressed. If you were living in this part of the world, the way you have fitted it is the correct way. It depends where you live as to whether OFF should up or down. Seriously.
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Old 28th August 2007, 04:08 AM   #460
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For a power switch position, there may be regional standards, but I install a power switch considering the easy way for the preferred condition and also decided by the safe position. Pushing up is difficult.

On the MIL spec oscilloscope TEK 465M, the power switch had to be pulled out for ON position

Gajanan phadte
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