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Chip Amps Amplifiers based on integrated circuits

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Old 30th September 2012, 09:19 AM   #2201
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Thumbs up Like it alot

Interesting enclosures and extremely well made! It must of taken you a while to design them and fabricate them, are u by chance a machinist?

They have a certain simplicity or minimalistic character. Sort of reminds of some mark levinson equipment.

Anyways, very, very impressive.
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Old 1st October 2012, 12:16 PM   #2202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marsvolta View Post
The P06 sounds good! A little light on the low end but I just threw it together from spare parts. I used a TL084. I plan on another with high quality parts. It still is very close to my 12ax7 tube preamp. Open and airy. Smooth mids.

The P06 needs to be driven into a buffer. I have a TL084 buffer before the 10k pot in the amp. I have found it also helps the CD players sound greatly. I think a buffer is mandatory for a gainclone. I've got to order some other opamps and compare.
Update: I finally got back to this amp. I found I had a 220 nF instead of a 22nF on the P06 preamp. It sounds MUCH better now. Full bass. It sounds fantastic!! I am using OPA2134 chips.
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Old 9th October 2012, 08:26 AM   #2203
sasmit is offline sasmit  India
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chris2 View Post
Interesting enclosures and extremely well made! It must of taken you a while to design them and fabricate them, are u by chance a machinist?

They have a certain simplicity or minimalistic character. Sort of reminds of some mark levinson equipment.

Anyways, very, very impressive.
Thanks Chris .
The enclosures took a while to finish. My primary occupation is quite the opposite of a machinist ..I work with software, I do work on motorcycles sometimes..
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Old 11th October 2012, 01:27 AM   #2204
ZLyzen is offline ZLyzen  United States
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Default 2.1 self-powered set

Besides a small amp using a lm4780, this is my first big and super-involved project. It's been done for about a month, and I am really happy with the results.

It's a 2.1 set of self-powered speakers. I'm using Hivi drivers (m8n, b4n, tn25)

All active circuits are in the subwoofer very similar to a plate amp.
There is a bridged lm4780 powering the sub (which is more than enough)
a lm4766 powers the satellite speakers

antek toroid, nichon caps, and custom pcbs-using parts-express' presensitized double-sided pcbs.

There is a 2nd order linkwitz-riley passive crossover in each satellite

Cables are custom made, speaker cables are 14 gauge stranded pure copper with rca on each end (because I could)

I made the cabinets from .75" red oak

Back panels were made at cometic gaskets, they are cnc cut with a water jet. .08" aluminum, I sent them my drawings and got it back, perfectly cut out.

Heatsink is from heatsink usa, went with their custom machining service.

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here's the finished set

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.75" Red Oak

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Back of the bookshelf speakers, what the metal panels will mount onto.

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test fit of hivi b4n & tn25

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finished satellite, bolts are 18-8 (ss) socket cap #8-32 hex bolts from boltdepot.com.

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unfinished sub

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back of them finished

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Controls are as follows:
top knob: subwoofer volume, have gain set so that middle is 0dB, it is a switching potentiometer. When clicked "off" the lm4780 is muted, and the low-cut is taken off of the satellite speakers. When the sub is clicked on the lm4780 is unmuted, and the low frequencies are cut from the satellites (crossover is at 150Hz, might change it to 100 in the future). If you'd rather not have the low frequencies be cut from the satellites depending on the switch in the potentiometer you just press the button next to the knob, it cancels this feature.

2nd knob: bass eq, center detent for 0dB change, this is an overall eq, so is effective before the active crossover. This means if you have the subwoofer clicked off and want a little more bass to the satellites you can use this knob for that too

3.5mm input, rca input

R + L speaker outputs

main power, fuse, IEC

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another shot

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when main power (switch in back) is turned on, the volume potentiometer at the front of the sub is a switching potentiometer, so turned fully down clicks off, and the set is in standby, led is red

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when the potentiometer is turned up the set turns on, led is light blue, (not shown, when sub is "clicked" off led is dark blue. Led and potentiometer are both mounted on a small piece of metal, same material that the back panels are made from.

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looking into the sub with the speaker removed

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Power amplifier board

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Active filter board

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back panel, from left, power amp board, psu, and active filter. foam is to stop wires from rattling.

Welp, that's everything. Just wanted to share, I learned a great deal from this site, and these took me ~4.5 months and cost 600-700 usd. I'd answer any questions too.
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Old 11th October 2012, 09:10 AM   #2205
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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twisted pairs.....twisted pairs......twisted pairs
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Old 11th October 2012, 09:26 AM   #2206
bcmbob is online now bcmbob  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
twisted pairs.....twisted pairs......twisted pairs
I was waiting for you to say that. Had you on a timer
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Old 11th October 2012, 09:40 AM   #2207
troystg is offline troystg  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bcmbob View Post
I was waiting for you to say that. Had you on a timer
We should have placed bets.
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Old 11th October 2012, 11:15 AM   #2208
bcmbob is online now bcmbob  United States
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Right, Andrew has taught us well and often,
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Old 11th October 2012, 03:00 PM   #2209
1MOR is offline 1MOR  United States
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Zlyzen,

Excellent project, thanks for the pics and the write up!
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Old 12th October 2012, 05:16 PM   #2210
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AndrewT View Post
twisted pairs.....twisted pairs......twisted pairs
His project looks fantastic and that all you have to offer? LOL
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