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#1331 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Hey, LOVE your website! Have enjoyed it for over a month. I think AudioFred showed it to me, maybe Sonidos. Anyway I enjoy it and your woodwork is really nice.
We have an audio get together in Texas. Houston. First Saturday in March. Contact me if you would be interested. Its for DIY projects. I have the same speaker wires. I like them but they are a bit long and they are a bit of a mess when they are to long. Uriah
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You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com |
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#1333 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2010
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#1335 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Goderich
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Wow there are some very impressive amps on here.
Mine is no where near as nice looking. I'll put up some pics anyway. I made the case for it in grade 9, so about 9 years ago. I made the amp itself in grade 11, before that I had LM1875s, 3875s. It's got a pair of LM4780s, each in bridge mode. The power supply is two 24V SMPS, they are each rated at 3.5A. But they feed the LM4780s with no problems. Although I usually listen at fairly low levels, so it rarely needs anywhere near 3.5A. I'm very happy with this amp since there is absolutely no hum. I get more noise from my hard drive seeking than from hum. And even that is barely audible. My other chipamps have considerably more hum. Oh the little transformer is for the fans, which I have running off about 7Vdc from a LM317. So they aren't really audible. They aren't really necessary for normal listening, but full tilt the heatsinks get pretty hot without them. So yeah that's my chipamp contribution. ![]()
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#1336 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sibiu, Romania
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Here's mine, LM3886 and OPA2134 based. I rebuilt it a couple of months ago on proper PCBs and a decent housing. It has 4 inputs selectable via rotary switch, and -12dB, 0dB and 12dB preamp settings.
Preamplifier: ![]() Overview: ![]() PSU: ![]() Power IC's: ![]() Job done:
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Any solution is a compromise. |
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#1337 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Devon UK
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Quote:
The heat doesn't just magically disappear (as its name implies), it has to be removed by convection and/or radiation. Last edited by frank1; 18th February 2010 at 12:30 PM. |
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#1338 |
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Passive Aggressive
diyAudio Member
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Frank,
Its going to be okay for those guys who are enclosing their sinks. The chips dont get very warm to start with and those sinks are plenty big enough even in a non vented area. I had one in a 18x18x3" space for over half a year with no problem. The sinks were warm to the touch. This was with 24VDC and very efficient speakers. If you are running higher voltage and driving less than efficient speakers you might run into trouble but luckily the LM3886 will tell you they are to hot by literally screaming at you through your speakers. SPIKE protection. Uriah
__________________
You can purchase LDRs anytime to build a standard LDR attenuator or to build my new LDR Attenuator "A Lighter Note". Email me. diyldr@gmail.com |
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#1339 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Sibiu, Romania
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Quote:
During testing I placed a thermocouple straight on the chips and measured the temperature after playing loud enough to be disturbing. The chips barely reached 60 degrees at a room temperature of 22, whith the enclosure closed. At normal levels the temperature doesn't pass over 35. Actually, here are the results for the measurements: 81dB in listening position, 32C on the chip, 0.85Vrms at amplifier output, around 80mW. Play time: around one hour. 101dB in listening position (nobody complained, lucky me), 58C on the chip, 7.92Vrms at amplifier output, around 8W. Play time: only 15 minutes because it was way too loud for my ears and I couldn't endure more. Devices used for measurements were a Fluke 187 multimeter borrowed from work and a commercial SPL meter for which I don't recall the name, it was also borrowed. My speakers are having a sensitivity of 92dB and I actually had to remove the heatsink to hear the first time how the SPIKE sounds like. Yet-another-heatsink-in-a-box does the job very good though. So, thank you for your kind intentions, but I think I have pretty much headroom, heh?
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Any solution is a compromise. |
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#1340 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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Ratza,
I don't agree with your reasoning, but I do like the fact you did some testing before making that informed decision. I would like to run my chipamps cooler than you do, but that's just a difference of opinion. We are both entitled to our own opinions and to make our own informed decisions. I suspect that Frank did not realise how you came to your decision, but I think he was right to point out what he saw and why he said it. Enclosed heatsinks rapidly increase the ambient temperature inside power amp cases. This practice if not monitored can lead to poor sound and more importantly poor reliability. Frank, Don't let this put you off. Your observation was correct, there appeared to be something wrong. What saved the situation was 92dB speakers. 89dB speakers requiring twice the power for the same volume would cause the amp some ill-needed stress. 86dB speakers would be unsuitable.
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regards Andrew T. |
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