Might be from these guys?
They look like decent quality enclosures at a quite reasonable price.
I have not ordered from them yet, but the next amp I build, I will be trying them.
That vendor is VT4C Studio. I've purchased from them before and they have some nice, quality made parts. Shipping seems fairly priced and quick too.
Rick
tnx,
here is link for enclosures:
2107 Full Aluminum Power Amplifier Enclosure Headphone Amp Preamp Case DIY | eBay
here is link for enclosures:
2107 Full Aluminum Power Amplifier Enclosure Headphone Amp Preamp Case DIY | eBay
and they do another @ ~ 3times the internal volume that also looks like good value. All aluminium and both sizes include heatsinks.
Full aluminum Power amp Enclosure Case ?W:320mm X H:90mm X D:300mm?
Full aluminum Power amp Enclosure Case ?W:320mm X H:90mm X D:300mm?
I can vouch for this website run by along. I've bought many enclosures/cases from him too. I've been using him for a long time, and his prices are fair, although shipping is high. He will gladly combine shipping on multiple items and/or ship DHL if requested. It's a lot quicker than the normal China post!
Rick
How thick is the bottom plate?
I suppose it's fixed to the heatsinks only, and so , it needs to be rigid enough to stand a transformer without bending?
My LM3875
Here is my Chipamp. I started off with Peter Daniels LM3875 premium kit. I added a rack mountable chassis, large 0,7c/w heat sinks, EMI filter, Neutrik RCA's, binding posts, 400va 24v toroids.
Low DC offset of 8 and 16mv, no hum, the amp is quiet and stays cool.
Sound is very good, detailed, open. Good bass too.
Since I am not an engineer (just a middle aged newbie hobbyist
), I am very happy with the result.
Michael
My Project page
Here is my Chipamp. I started off with Peter Daniels LM3875 premium kit. I added a rack mountable chassis, large 0,7c/w heat sinks, EMI filter, Neutrik RCA's, binding posts, 400va 24v toroids.
Low DC offset of 8 and 16mv, no hum, the amp is quiet and stays cool.
Sound is very good, detailed, open. Good bass too.
Since I am not an engineer (just a middle aged newbie hobbyist
), I am very happy with the result.Michael
My Project page
Attachments
Yes, they are. But I struggle a bit with them. They continue to blow, when i switch the amp on. I guess the two 400va toroids use a lot of current initially. Even 6A fuses blow. I currently jumped the fuses...... Once switched on, all is fine. All voltages ae fine and everything stays cool.
I am looking for a soft start circuit as we speak, as i do not want to operate without fuses in the long run....
@zimmer64: Good build and you have followed the Gainclone formular very strictly. A lot of builders want to put in huge piles of filter caps. And very good to see you didn't use shielded wire. It just isn't necessary and dulls the sound.
Neat job. I have had mine in my main system for about three weeks now and are really enjoying it.
Neat job. I have had mine in my main system for about three weeks now and are really enjoying it.
Here is my Chipamp. I started off with Peter Daniels LM3875 premium kit. I added a rack mountable chassis, large 0,7c/w heat sinks, EMI filter, Neutrik RCA's, binding posts, 400va 24v toroids.
Low DC offset of 8 and 16mv, no hum, the amp is quiet and stays cool.
Sound is very good, detailed, open. Good bass too.
Since I am not an engineer (just a middle aged newbie hobbyist
Michael
My Project page
Change those small values power supply caps(10uf) Those are jokes for a power supply
I would Use 6800uf or 10000uf at least per rail
This moves away from the Gainclone formula. It is believed that the small, generally 1500uf caps at the chip, caps provide better mid-range than huge amounts of filtering and storage. I use 4.7uf polies across my rec. bridge.Change those small values power supply caps(10uf) Those are jokes for a power supply
What if you use 4 or 5 or more 2200uF? that's better than one huge 10.000uF and works well for low range, I think.
Just asking.
Regards.
That is right! but these people "THINK" they will get better sound with those 10uf as power supply. I guess they use them because they "saw" it in other gainclones amps. My first diy amp was one from Peter Daniel LM3875 and it came with those "jokes" 10uf caps as power supply. I try many values from 10uf to 40000uf, at the end I kept it at 20000uf per rail, I could feel the bass!!! and if people say they will loose mid-range...That is not true!
Real amps use ...real power supplies!!! you will NEVER find a 4.7uf or 10uf cap as power supply in a Bryston, Krell, Adcom, Acurus, Marantz, Fisher, Onkyo etc, etc, etc...not even in a cheap Radio shack radio or amp lol...
