" ... .01uf to .1uf caps are often used on each diode ..."
Also a good reason you don't notice any difference between "fast recovery" and "regular" diodes ... the poly caps are "covering up" any perceived or real advantage of using faster switching diodes ... making the need for "faster" diodes unnecessary.
Good show.
Also a good reason you don't notice any difference between "fast recovery" and "regular" diodes ... the poly caps are "covering up" any perceived or real advantage of using faster switching diodes ... making the need for "faster" diodes unnecessary.
Good show.
Thank you mick!
I really had fun with the amp. I'm enjoying the music as well. I'm currently working on a p to p LM3876 amp and using carbon resistors throught. I'm hoping to hear a difference and be able to compare the two amps form the same source and the same speakers. I have read about differenct components sounding different, so I would like to experience it.
john
I really had fun with the amp. I'm enjoying the music as well. I'm currently working on a p to p LM3876 amp and using carbon resistors throught. I'm hoping to hear a difference and be able to compare the two amps form the same source and the same speakers. I have read about differenct components sounding different, so I would like to experience it.
john
first amp
hi!
this is my first amp. i built it mostly out of "intuition", i knew nearly nothing about designing a case or how to get the electronics right. so the outcome is a bit chaotic, but it works fine and i like the sort of rustic look.
i received great help from this forum when i was in trouble with designing the chip boards, thx to spittinllama , jaudio and the others!
here´s the case without inner life:
hi!
this is my first amp. i built it mostly out of "intuition", i knew nearly nothing about designing a case or how to get the electronics right. so the outcome is a bit chaotic, but it works fine and i like the sort of rustic look.
i received great help from this forum when i was in trouble with designing the chip boards, thx to spittinllama , jaudio and the others!
here´s the case without inner life:
Attachments
My latest contribution. A couple of things that I have spent the last month or two putting together for a friend (have taken my time at it) and have now got all flaws taken care of.
DC-offset can't be measured with my multimeter under normal use and with a pair of ZHorn Herukas (Fostex 168EZ-sigma) a light buzz is just noticeble at a range of a few centimeters so I am quite happy with it. Oh, It is a hardwired LM3875 Gainclone with dual transformers of 2x25V and approx 200VA each.
The preamp is a Freebird with one OPA134 per channel.
The CD is a Marantz CD-57 with some parts removed (thanks to the guys in the Marantz modificationthread!).
DC-offset can't be measured with my multimeter under normal use and with a pair of ZHorn Herukas (Fostex 168EZ-sigma) a light buzz is just noticeble at a range of a few centimeters so I am quite happy with it. Oh, It is a hardwired LM3875 Gainclone with dual transformers of 2x25V and approx 200VA each.
The preamp is a Freebird with one OPA134 per channel.
The CD is a Marantz CD-57 with some parts removed (thanks to the guys in the Marantz modificationthread!).
Attachments
And the poweramp.
I had som buzzing in the beginning and tested to add aluminumfoil as isolation but the problem was ofcourse the grounding as usual ut since I glued it on it has to stay where it is.
It might look like a ratsnest but I swear that it is ok
And building the top and sides in one piece and the bottom, front and back in one makes it easy to fiddle around with
Oh, EDIT:
the sugarlumps (Eurosockets?) came with the broken amps a salvaged them from and since they where already there I didn't bother to remove them. Doing that might make the layout a bit nicer but since it works fine I'll leave it as it is.
I had som buzzing in the beginning and tested to add aluminumfoil as isolation but the problem was ofcourse the grounding as usual ut since I glued it on it has to stay where it is.
It might look like a ratsnest but I swear that it is ok
And building the top and sides in one piece and the bottom, front and back in one makes it easy to fiddle around with
Oh, EDIT:
the sugarlumps (Eurosockets?) came with the broken amps a salvaged them from and since they where already there I didn't bother to remove them. Doing that might make the layout a bit nicer but since it works fine I'll leave it as it is.
Attachments
" ... DC-offset can't be measured with my multimeter under normal use and with a pair of ZHorn Herukas (Fostex 168EZ-sigma) a light buzz is just noticeble at a range of a few centimeters so I am quite happy with it. ..."
I might suggest adding one or two plastic snubbing capacitors to the pre-amp power supply at the PS output rails ... 0.1 to 1.0 uF MKS type (sprague or other) should do it. Might knock that hum right off the lines. (This would work the same way as the mods you did to your Marantz CD player.)
I might suggest adding one or two plastic snubbing capacitors to the pre-amp power supply at the PS output rails ... 0.1 to 1.0 uF MKS type (sprague or other) should do it. Might knock that hum right off the lines. (This would work the same way as the mods you did to your Marantz CD player.)