There is a company out of the UK named ILP Electronics. It makes a range of power amp modules: basically the entire amp circuit is embedded in some vitreous material bonded to a heat sink. Most of the modules have 5 connections: ground, Vcc+, Vcc-, in, out; though some integrate the PSU less the transformer as well.
Has anyone used these? Are they any good?
Has anyone used these? Are they any good?
Hi qazkq8v,
I am very familiar with the ones I sold in the late 70's and early 80's. There were what you describe.
They sounded good back then. They blew up easily if abused at all. They could be destroyed instantly from poor grounding when wiring them up. I built a stereo amp that worked well for years using a pair of HY120's (60W). The guy I sold it too blew it up. I don't think it took much.
-Chris
I am very familiar with the ones I sold in the late 70's and early 80's. There were what you describe.
They sounded good back then. They blew up easily if abused at all. They could be destroyed instantly from poor grounding when wiring them up. I built a stereo amp that worked well for years using a pair of HY120's (60W). The guy I sold it too blew it up. I don't think it took much.
-Chris
I built an ILP power amp in 1988. I don't recall the model number but I remeber the specification called for +/-40 to 57volts rails (or similar). I drove it with +/-60 and the two modules died within days of use. I don't think they were engineered for "good times". As I recall I purchased the 2 modules at Active components on Lombard Street and they were very expensive.
I thought I saw some recently in a surplus store, wasn't ILP connected to Plitron somehow or am I making that up?
I thought I saw some recently in a surplus store, wasn't ILP connected to Plitron somehow or am I making that up?
http://www.ilpelectronics.com/
Blast from the past.
They did sell toroids (I have one from around 1980), now only made to order by the look of it.
Blast from the past.
They did sell toroids (I have one from around 1980), now only made to order by the look of it.
Back in the 80's I assembled a Stereo Amp with 2 ILP MOS 248 modues + the HY 66 Pre Amp. It did not sound too good. I had in storage for last 25 Years. Recently connected it and was surprised it is still working. Probably the HY 66 Preamp with Tone control was the problem, I am now trying to revive it with a new Preamp from ebay that uses LM1036 +NE5532. Will let you know how that works out. If results are any good I will post pictures. HY248 / MOS248 specs: 120W into 8 Ohms <0.015% THD at 30W @1khz +/_ 45V @2.5Amp Input Sensitivity: 500mV RMS
I’m still using one ILP module as monoblock amplifier (bought it in 1993). More specific the SMOS 128, it sounds ok, no hiss at all.
I’ll post some pictures here or in “Chip Amp Photo Gallery”.
Attached are the product specs.
I’ll post some pictures here or in “Chip Amp Photo Gallery”.
Attached are the product specs.
Attachments
Here is my update.
I disconnected the HY66 preamp.
Then connected the signal from an external USB 5.1 Channel Sound Card Adapter to the new Preamplifier with LM1036 + NE5532. (This arrangement works well with the Heathkit-DAYSTORM Model AA100 Tube Amplifier), but this was not good for the ILP MOS 248 Module. It was distorting too much.
So I removed the Preamplifier and fed audio the signal directly from the external USB sound card to the ILP MOS 248 input. This produced very clean audio output -there was no hiss or hum. There is no listening fatigue.
Bottom line I did not need any pre-amplifier! I will look into adding a tone control using LM1036.
I am uploading the pictures.
I disconnected the HY66 preamp.
Then connected the signal from an external USB 5.1 Channel Sound Card Adapter to the new Preamplifier with LM1036 + NE5532. (This arrangement works well with the Heathkit-DAYSTORM Model AA100 Tube Amplifier), but this was not good for the ILP MOS 248 Module. It was distorting too much.
So I removed the Preamplifier and fed audio the signal directly from the external USB sound card to the ILP MOS 248 input. This produced very clean audio output -there was no hiss or hum. There is no listening fatigue.
Bottom line I did not need any pre-amplifier! I will look into adding a tone control using LM1036.
I am uploading the pictures.
Attachments
Hi djmaratt,
Keep in mind that the ILP modules are extremely fussy about signals and grounding. If your LM1036 preamp has any issues in that area, expect the ILPs to complain and generally be unhappy. Your less complicated hookup from the USB sound card would have less chance for those types of problems. Your existing "preamp" should work perfectly once you have the signal and grounding issues resolved. Only you can do that because you have your stuff in front of you.
-Chris
Keep in mind that the ILP modules are extremely fussy about signals and grounding. If your LM1036 preamp has any issues in that area, expect the ILPs to complain and generally be unhappy. Your less complicated hookup from the USB sound card would have less chance for those types of problems. Your existing "preamp" should work perfectly once you have the signal and grounding issues resolved. Only you can do that because you have your stuff in front of you.
-Chris
Nice Thanks for sharing the pictures. These modules last long if treated well. Sad they are no longer available. National Semiconductors used to have Linear power Amps chips ~120W. After Texas Instruments bought them, the linear Power Amp modules were eliminated. Now only class D amplifier chips are available. They are so small, it is hard to work with them.
Attachments
HY66
Didn't you find the HY66 Pre-Amp to be a great quality pre-amp? I would just add a bluetooth input if so desired. The thing you'll notice about ILP is their attention to THD and IHD, and this goes back to the 1980s when only the best Mosfet Amp would achieve those low level THD. Also their broad Frequency Response. Using the HY66 with their line of power amp ensure those specs.
Didn't you find the HY66 Pre-Amp to be a great quality pre-amp? I would just add a bluetooth input if so desired. The thing you'll notice about ILP is their attention to THD and IHD, and this goes back to the 1980s when only the best Mosfet Amp would achieve those low level THD. Also their broad Frequency Response. Using the HY66 with their line of power amp ensure those specs.
Hi everyone,
I made an integrated amp using a pair of ILP MOS248s about 35 years ago. I used it as my main system for many years until it finally started making loud popping noises where the power supply electrolytics started to go off. I'm now going to build a new, more compact amp using them - I don't need 120W pc. By the way, they can take less than +/-55V, I’m going to be using +/-25V transformers on the new amp.
The RS Application Note says that fuses should be put in the power leads for protection and a resistor to earth for stability. Being a little bit of a purist, I never used either and did not have any problems but it is always risky not following that kind of advice. What I did and always make sure of, as in my opinion it is of the utmost importance, was to use good earthing techniques; star earthing, signal earth separate to any other, big copper connection between the power supply caps and then T’d off from there etc.
They always sounded really good to me; clear treble, good deep base. Also robust, I used them to drive a pair of Naim SBLs. I would recommend them in a HiFi system.
It looks like ILP are trying to get going again. I found this: ILP Electronics - New Site is Coming Soon!
Here is the ILP datasheet for the MOS248 module and the RS Components datasheet for the HY60 and the 248. I think the RS one is better than ILP’s own ds.
I made an integrated amp using a pair of ILP MOS248s about 35 years ago. I used it as my main system for many years until it finally started making loud popping noises where the power supply electrolytics started to go off. I'm now going to build a new, more compact amp using them - I don't need 120W pc. By the way, they can take less than +/-55V, I’m going to be using +/-25V transformers on the new amp.
The RS Application Note says that fuses should be put in the power leads for protection and a resistor to earth for stability. Being a little bit of a purist, I never used either and did not have any problems but it is always risky not following that kind of advice. What I did and always make sure of, as in my opinion it is of the utmost importance, was to use good earthing techniques; star earthing, signal earth separate to any other, big copper connection between the power supply caps and then T’d off from there etc.
They always sounded really good to me; clear treble, good deep base. Also robust, I used them to drive a pair of Naim SBLs. I would recommend them in a HiFi system.
It looks like ILP are trying to get going again. I found this: ILP Electronics - New Site is Coming Soon!
Here is the ILP datasheet for the MOS248 module and the RS Components datasheet for the HY60 and the 248. I think the RS one is better than ILP’s own ds.