AC connector

alizawi · 3rd April 2006, 07:44 AM

would this connector be suitable for an LM3875 project?

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-443

or will the 10A fuse be a problem and in that case i should stick with this one:

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-442

thanks.

lndm · 3rd April 2006, 08:04 AM

10A at 110VAC? That would be 1.1kW RMS

I like the idea for fuse access, maybe you could put a lower rated fuse in there.

phn · 3rd April 2006, 08:12 AM

If you think the fuse is a problem, then it probably is. Otherwise, no.

I like the fused version. I believe the fuse on the transformer secondary is more important, but like one on the primary as well. (I'm a safety first guy.) And I think Indm is right. I believe mine are 2.5A.

alizawi · 3rd April 2006, 08:25 AM

A bunch of links referenced on this forum recommend using 5-6 A fuses on the primary end. I guess I can take out the 10 A one and replace it as suggested

BrianDonegan · 3rd April 2006, 03:03 PM

I think there is a little confusion. The fuse holder can handle *up to* 10A. I don't think the connector actually comes with any fuses.

Use the fused connector and the appropriate size fuse for your project.

RDL2004 · 3rd April 2006, 05:35 PM

Note last part of description: "Fuses sold separately". The receptical itself is rated for anything up to 10 amps.

These will work fine, however be aware that with the snap-in kind, your panel thickness and how accurately you cut the hole is very important. I prefer the screw mount type myself, the hole can be pretty sloppy and panel thickness is irrelevant.

- Rick

lgreen · 3rd April 2006, 06:41 PM

Rick is right, unless you are very good at cutting the square hole there is a good chance that the snap-in type will not be in there very securely.

In which case you will want to use the same type that is a screw-mount. Like Q201-ND (Fig. 1) at digikey.

alizawi · 3rd April 2006, 07:01 PM

Good lookin out, I just read the info real fast, didn't notice the fuse wasn't include.....about the hole, i might get my holes done professionally, but if I do them myself i guess i'll stick with the other connector........ by the way, which switches are best...SPST, DPDT or any other kind?

Apex Jr · 3rd April 2006, 11:02 PM

I have these in stock at $1.49ea

http://www.apexjr.com/images/IEC_POWER_RECPT.jpg

Receptacle - Fuses - and Switch together

Steve @ Apex Jr
www.apexjr.com

alizawi · 4th April 2006, 12:50 AM

what do you guys think about the apex ones...looks like the best solution to me

3rd April 2006, 07:44 AM	#1
alizawi diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: California	AC connector would this connector be suitable for an LM3875 project? http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-443 or will the 10A fuse be a problem and in that case i should stick with this one: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=090-442 thanks.

3rd April 2006, 03:03 PM	#5
BrianDonegan diyAudio Member Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Rock Ridge	I think there is a little confusion. The fuse holder can handle up to 10A. I don't think the connector actually comes with any fuses. Use the fused connector and the appropriate size fuse for your project. __________________ Twisted Pear Audio

3rd April 2006, 06:41 PM	#7
lgreen diyAudio Member Join Date: May 2003 Location: San Diego, USA	Rick is right, unless you are very good at cutting the square hole there is a good chance that the snap-in type will not be in there very securely. In which case you will want to use the same type that is a screw-mount. Like Q201-ND (Fig. 1) at digikey. __________________ My DIY audio projects- PartTimeProjects.com.

3rd April 2006, 11:02 PM	#9
Apex Jr diyAudio Member Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Torrance, Calif	Another Option I have these in stock at $1.49ea http://www.apexjr.com/images/IEC_POWER_RECPT.jpg Receptacle - Fuses - and Switch together Steve @ Apex Jr www.apexjr.com

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3rd April 2006, 08:04 AM	#2
lndm diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: nsw	10A at 110VAC? That would be 1.1kW RMS I like the idea for fuse access, maybe you could put a lower rated fuse in there.

3rd April 2006, 08:12 AM	#3
phn diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	If you think the fuse is a problem, then it probably is. Otherwise, no. I like the fused version. I believe the fuse on the transformer secondary is more important, but like one on the primary as well. (I'm a safety first guy.) And I think Indm is right. I believe mine are 2.5A.

3rd April 2006, 08:25 AM	#4
alizawi diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: California	A bunch of links referenced on this forum recommend using 5-6 A fuses on the primary end. I guess I can take out the 10 A one and replace it as suggested

3rd April 2006, 05:35 PM	#6
RDL2004 diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2004	Note last part of description: "Fuses sold separately". The receptical itself is rated for anything up to 10 amps. These will work fine, however be aware that with the snap-in kind, your panel thickness and how accurately you cut the hole is very important. I prefer the screw mount type myself, the hole can be pretty sloppy and panel thickness is irrelevant. - Rick

3rd April 2006, 07:01 PM	#8
alizawi diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: California	Good lookin out, I just read the info real fast, didn't notice the fuse wasn't include.....about the hole, i might get my holes done professionally, but if I do them myself i guess i'll stick with the other connector........ by the way, which switches are best...SPST, DPDT or any other kind?

4th April 2006, 12:50 AM	#10
alizawi diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: California	what do you guys think about the apex ones...looks like the best solution to me

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