Q1: What would be the best place to wire this? I am looking to wire in whatever place fluctuates the most although I am not expecting a "light show"!
Q2: Has anyone used this model? I am not exactly sure where to make my connections. I may have to use trial and error and hope I don't burn it out!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7595874403&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:PIC&rd=1
Thanks,
Dominick
Q2: Has anyone used this model? I am not exactly sure where to make my connections. I may have to use trial and error and hope I don't burn it out!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7595874403&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:PIC&rd=1
Thanks,
Dominick
Good question as I was wanting to use one as well 
If you want to use this to show some type of reference to watts, I'm not 100%, but you don't want to use this b/c it is DC volts. After you rectify it, your volts should be constsant. It's current you are after. Your chip will always need/use the (25V *1.41) 30volts but it will draw more current when you play it louder or when the bass hits.
If you want to just show DC volts then it will work. I would hook it up after the tranny or after the PS before the chip. See if it makes a diff in the sound...
Hopefully someone else with more knowledge than I can set us both straight
If you want to use this to show some type of reference to watts, I'm not 100%, but you don't want to use this b/c it is DC volts. After you rectify it, your volts should be constsant. It's current you are after. Your chip will always need/use the (25V *1.41) 30volts but it will draw more current when you play it louder or when the bass hits.
If you want to just show DC volts then it will work. I would hook it up after the tranny or after the PS before the chip. See if it makes a diff in the sound...
Hopefully someone else with more knowledge than I can set us both straight
i have some similar to those but red. be very careful about powering them. they release the smoke very easilly!
you could monitor the power supply voltage.
you could use it as a volume display if you had a voltage controlled preamp such as the kookaburra.
you can get LM35 chips and turn them into temperature monitors.
you could monitor the power supply voltage.
you could use it as a volume display if you had a voltage controlled preamp such as the kookaburra.
you can get LM35 chips and turn them into temperature monitors.
Thanks for the suggestions neutron.
I did figure them out altough I toasted one in the prcess. LOL-the pains of learning!
Anyway, it raised some questions.
I hooked up the voltage reading inputs to the output capacitor leads.
I am using a 22V 400 VA, but I am getting readings in the low to mid 30's?????
How is this possible?
Also, The voltage fluctucated as many as 3-5 volts when the amp has no input signal attached hence there is 0 output! shouldnt the voltage be fairly stable only fluctuating a few tenths of a volt at most???
Thanks,
Dominick
I did figure them out altough I toasted one in the prcess. LOL-the pains of learning!
Anyway, it raised some questions.
I hooked up the voltage reading inputs to the output capacitor leads.
I am using a 22V 400 VA, but I am getting readings in the low to mid 30's?????
How is this possible?
Also, The voltage fluctucated as many as 3-5 volts when the amp has no input signal attached hence there is 0 output! shouldnt the voltage be fairly stable only fluctuating a few tenths of a volt at most???
Thanks,
Dominick
I tested the voltage on the output caps and they were all stable.
They were at 78.5 give or take 1 volt. I saw slight flucuations (.1-.2), but the volt meter is still jumping around 3 to 5 volts continuously!!
It is driving me nuts and with this flucuation, there is no point in using it!
What do you think??
Dominick
They were at 78.5 give or take 1 volt. I saw slight flucuations (.1-.2), but the volt meter is still jumping around 3 to 5 volts continuously!!
It is driving me nuts and with this flucuation, there is no point in using it!
What do you think??
Dominick
I have soldered the connections and tried it on a battery-still, it fluctuates.
Now, it is rated to run at 5V to light the LED and I am using a 12V transformer stepped down with cheap radioshack resistors to around 5V.
Could that be the root of the problem????
Maybe it is the rectifier I bought from PE????
The meter looks great-it just wont stabilize!
HELP PLEASE,
Dominick
Now, it is rated to run at 5V to light the LED and I am using a 12V transformer stepped down with cheap radioshack resistors to around 5V.
Could that be the root of the problem????
Maybe it is the rectifier I bought from PE????
The meter looks great-it just wont stabilize!
HELP PLEASE,
Dominick
Dominick22 said:
...I dont like the sound of around 5V. If your at radioshack anyhow they have a 7805(positive supply) or 7905 regulator for 5V from your 12V supply... If it wants 5V and your using a 12V(assuming not regulated so could be even 20V with no load
) supply with a series resistor you could have very likely damaged it already.Banned
Joined 2002
It requires 5V to power the LED is relatively stable at -1, 0, and 1 when there is no input for measured voltage.
Once I apply an input voltage, it hovers around 30 but jumps around as much as +-1.5 volts with no audio signal going through the amp.
Thanks,
Dominick
You know--this would be much easier if I could just find a 12V version of this!LOL
Can anyone direct me to one???
Once I apply an input voltage, it hovers around 30 but jumps around as much as +-1.5 volts with no audio signal going through the amp.
Thanks,
Dominick
You know--this would be much easier if I could just find a 12V version of this!LOL
Can anyone direct me to one???
Banned
Joined 2002
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