im building amplifier that will be powered by 12v ~10Ah battery.
i choosed TDA2006 integrated amps which produce
12watts of power at 4 ohm (drivers are from car stereo)
i will use their reccomended diagram
can anyone give me some other diagrams, or some ideas to improve
amp, because idea of this amp is to play constantly for longer period of time
when i go on long outdoor trips.
i need to spare as much current as i can(because i want that amp
plays for a longer period of time)
i dont know how to built in stand by / mute circuit..
i'll use 2 amps to have stereo, and 2 of them are a lot easyer to cool, and are more reliable, if one channel burns other will be still usable
please help
thx
i choosed TDA2006 integrated amps which produce
12watts of power at 4 ohm (drivers are from car stereo)
i will use their reccomended diagram
can anyone give me some other diagrams, or some ideas to improve
amp, because idea of this amp is to play constantly for longer period of time
when i go on long outdoor trips.
i need to spare as much current as i can(because i want that amp
plays for a longer period of time)
i dont know how to built in stand by / mute circuit..
i'll use 2 amps to have stereo, and 2 of them are a lot easyer to cool, and are more reliable, if one channel burns other will be still usable
please help
thx
i can connect those two speakers in series too and use 1 amp or 2 bridged, i know, but thats optional... i wanted some kind of mute/ STANDBY switch if nothing is connected on input, but amp is turned on
i wanted to built bass cut circuit to save some power(then i f i want i can guide bass signal to 3rd amp, optional, but this amp is required for use on field so i dont need that for now).
which is best way to mute/standby this amp?
i wanted to built bass cut circuit to save some power(then i f i want i can guide bass signal to 3rd amp, optional, but this amp is required for use on field so i dont need that for now).
which is best way to mute/standby this amp?
i connected this amp on test board and i have measured about 2 volts on input and 5 volts at output, without anything connected. how is thah possible?
then i connected one speaker and discman on input, but i heared a lot of bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz and chip was over heating. why is that? amp was powered by computer power supply and discman was powered by another ac/dc adapter, was that creating buzz?
then i connected one speaker and discman on input, but i heared a lot of bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz and chip was over heating. why is that? amp was powered by computer power supply and discman was powered by another ac/dc adapter, was that creating buzz?
This circuit is intended to operate in +-12V symmetrical supplies. This means that it doesn't only require a +12V rail and ground, but also a -12V rail. Don't try to use the -12V output of the PC power supply for that, as it's only rated at 100mA !!
You should look for single supply arrangements, and for BTL (bridge connection). There are thousands of car-radio ICs readily available that would fit your needs, for example TDA7375.
You should look for single supply arrangements, and for BTL (bridge connection). There are thousands of car-radio ICs readily available that would fit your needs, for example TDA7375.
but in data sheet is given application circuit for single power supply
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/1452.pdf
shouldn't that work too?
tda 7375 is more expensive
http://www.st.com/stonline/books/pdf/docs/1452.pdf
shouldn't that work too?
tda 7375 is more expensive
There's also the TDA2005M, a bridged mono designed for car use, 20W from 14.5V into 4R, and the TDA2004, a 14W mono bridged/4W stereo chip amp. I made 4 of the latter bridged amps many years ago for a portable mini-PA system, surprised me to find RS Components in the UK still do the "evaluation" PCB for it (434-598).
Yeah but the 2005/2004 power ratings are at 10% THD. I have those datasheets and at a max of .1 THD you can get about 2 watts from the amp. Even at 1% THD AFAIK it's about 4 watts or so, after which the distortion ramps rapidly.
And those ratings are into 2 ohm loads at 12 volts.
Unfortunately you can't realistically get more power than that from a 12V supply. Philips had launched a class-H chip which used two large capacitors to boost rail voltage and get some more power at realistic distortion figures, I don't remember the chip number though.
The circuit diagram shown will work fine - it has a rail splitter for half-supply generation, but it needs more voltage, a single 12V battery means it's only getting 6V per rail, which is really low. According to the info it should work, but two batteries will be better.
For a 12V supply the best bet is unfortunately Class-D amps, with an SMPS, or a voltage doubler/SMPS and a good linear amp.
Why do you have to use one battery only?
By the way, you were getting a buzz because of a ground loop between the computer PSU and the discman power adapter. If you have a battery use the battery to power the amp.
And those ratings are into 2 ohm loads at 12 volts.
Unfortunately you can't realistically get more power than that from a 12V supply. Philips had launched a class-H chip which used two large capacitors to boost rail voltage and get some more power at realistic distortion figures, I don't remember the chip number though.
The circuit diagram shown will work fine - it has a rail splitter for half-supply generation, but it needs more voltage, a single 12V battery means it's only getting 6V per rail, which is really low. According to the info it should work, but two batteries will be better.
For a 12V supply the best bet is unfortunately Class-D amps, with an SMPS, or a voltage doubler/SMPS and a good linear amp.
Why do you have to use one battery only?
By the way, you were getting a buzz because of a ground loop between the computer PSU and the discman power adapter. If you have a battery use the battery to power the amp.
i use only one battery because they weight too much, i dont want to carry 10 kilos more few kilometers around
tda 2006 is chosen because it has Vcc typ 12V. Fully charged small car/motorcicle battery will have a bit more.
it is not important if amp can be, is bridged or not, i need to have small stereo amplifier which will be reliable, ill make 2 of them, indenpendant for each channel, and isn't possible then to bridge them, and get mono, with more power?
chip has a lot of distortion, but even that is better than cheap active computer speakers which i can connect to battery instead of this amp
ill put 2x 2200 uf on output
what else should i improve on amp?
tda 2006 is chosen because it has Vcc typ 12V. Fully charged small car/motorcicle battery will have a bit more.
it is not important if amp can be, is bridged or not, i need to have small stereo amplifier which will be reliable, ill make 2 of them, indenpendant for each channel, and isn't possible then to bridge them, and get mono, with more power?
chip has a lot of distortion, but even that is better than cheap active computer speakers which i can connect to battery instead of this amp
ill put 2x 2200 uf on output
what else should i improve on amp?
I am also planning on a simple amp using TDA2003V. Datasheet
The circuit is the stereo one with bridged chips, i think it was on page 7.
Now, the only doubt i have is how much current must the power supply output? I will use either 15v or 18v. Is a 15v/0.4A or an 18v/0.33A PSU too weak for the configuration?
thanks
The circuit is the stereo one with bridged chips, i think it was on page 7.
Now, the only doubt i have is how much current must the power supply output? I will use either 15v or 18v. Is a 15v/0.4A or an 18v/0.33A PSU too weak for the configuration?
thanks
If you have a restriction on the single battery, TDA 2003 won't cut it. See the voltage range is given as +-6 Volts onwards. For a single supply those voltages have to double, so 12 volts is the lowest possible voltage.
The chip I was talking about is indeed the 1562Q, I checked my datasheets folders again, it uses two hefty capacitors and a lift circuit to generate a lot of power (only for music, RMS ratings are still low).
There are lots of chips around that give very good performance, but if you're OK with more distortion the TDA 2005 is a better bet, it will give you a clean 6-7 watts at below 1% distortion, and is meant specifically for a car audio amp (12V single rail) in bridged mode and a couple of watts in stereo mode.
Now there are lots of amps that give near hifi performance from a 12V battery at upto 10 watts. Browsing the Philips and ST sites can lead you onto some good candidates, but those have complex pins and a steeper learning curve as they are menat to be used with some form of controller (no programming required but more skill required to design the appropriate RC networks to get desired results).
DolbyR: 300mA at 18VAC is about 4.8 watts. Which means your amp will only give out about 3-4 watts, maybe even less. The 2006 should not operate from more than +-15 Volts, so you're looking for a 2x9V transformer that will give about 13 volts DC, and the amp should be able to put out 24 watts so it should be able to provide 2-3 amperes of RMS current per winding at the minimum, or about 2 amps for the whole supply.
The chip I was talking about is indeed the 1562Q, I checked my datasheets folders again, it uses two hefty capacitors and a lift circuit to generate a lot of power (only for music, RMS ratings are still low).
There are lots of chips around that give very good performance, but if you're OK with more distortion the TDA 2005 is a better bet, it will give you a clean 6-7 watts at below 1% distortion, and is meant specifically for a car audio amp (12V single rail) in bridged mode and a couple of watts in stereo mode.
Now there are lots of amps that give near hifi performance from a 12V battery at upto 10 watts. Browsing the Philips and ST sites can lead you onto some good candidates, but those have complex pins and a steeper learning curve as they are menat to be used with some form of controller (no programming required but more skill required to design the appropriate RC networks to get desired results).
DolbyR: 300mA at 18VAC is about 4.8 watts. Which means your amp will only give out about 3-4 watts, maybe even less. The 2006 should not operate from more than +-15 Volts, so you're looking for a 2x9V transformer that will give about 13 volts DC, and the amp should be able to put out 24 watts so it should be able to provide 2-3 amperes of RMS current per winding at the minimum, or about 2 amps for the whole supply.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.